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Author Topic: Checkered Past (now a disposed of project)  (Read 31139 times)

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Malenko

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Checkered Past (now a disposed of project)
« on: October 17, 2011, 02:51:55 pm »
First off, Haruman said it was ok to do this to a Pole Position. So if anyone has an issue with me doing this to a PP cab, PM him.

That being said....


YAY! 5,000th post. Yes I waited till I got back from Taiwan to post this. (I'll have to post pictures after this, because then the picture post would have been #5,000)

Ok, so I started off with 3 Pole Position cabs, 1 fell off the truck, down to 2.

The cab in the best shape got scrubbed down and cleaned out, cleaned up all the wiring and dirt; its waiting for Haruman to figure out if the PP2 board is any good and how to run power without the ---smurfy--- AR2. On to the last PP cab. It had NO wiring in it, no pedals, a monitor with a busted neck board, cracked yoke, busted chassis, No speakers, basically the wood and a broken monitor. I mean even the wheel lacked the encoder board.

Here are the AFTER shots. The before shots are in the "restorations" section under "pole position triplets"



I started by removing the old monitor, and cleaning everything. This is probably the worst smelling cabinet Ive even owned. I wiped out the bottom with bleach water, and ended up slopping primer all over the inside to cover the smell. You cant really see it, but when I post up pix, I know someone is gonna ask "why is it white in the bottom?"
I also removed the stuff from the marquee area and put a regular florescent fixture up there.


above: the bottom before I painted it. It smells like Xouchie punched it 3 weeks ago.

The Monitor is a de-cased 27" TV. Yeah, I squeezed a 27" monitor into a pole position! I rank this up there with a 32" monitor in a KI2 cab ;) To make it fit I had to pull the 2 little strips of wood off of the front of the monitor area, and use a hacksaw to cut the metal tabs off of the corners. Not all the tab just half of it, so I had something to brace to the insides of the cab. The TV has component input as well, and I plan to use it if not it also has S-video. I soldered to wires from the chassis to arcade push buttons. 1 for power, 1 for input; just in case I put a dreamcast in there or something.


above: the inputs. I used a regular composite (V/L/R) wire for the component connection, I'll eventually buy the right wire....maybe.


above: there isnt much clearance for the neck tube for a 27" CRT inside a Pole Position


above: the power/input soldering

I have a 2.1 speaker system in there, 1 speaker up top, and the sub woofer and speaker sitting on the little shelf above where the pedals go. This allows the sound to cleanly leave the cab through the 2 speaker openings and for the base to have a little bump.


For the wheel, I tried to strip out a USB ball mouse first but it just wasn't moving consistently, or very well at all. I actually got a laser mouse hacked to bits this morning (pictures pending) and it work MUCH better. The only down side being that the wheel  uses the up/down instead of the left/right because I couldnt get the board to sit in the opening the other way. The mouse hack might be temporary if I end up getting a PC wheel. I mean I really want the PP cab to play pole position, but I'd rather player the model 2/model 3 etc ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- more. I'm still not 100% sure what to do about the pedals. I mean I can put switches down there, but then the gas is either all on or all off. Im leaning towards a  PC wheel because of that. I also have a Dreamcast Steering wheel, I may use that with a USB adapter.


above: the USB ball mouse hack, mouse button hacked to shifter, same as new hack, I just dont have any pix

The shifter is soldered into the left mouse button. I actually have a 4 button mouse in there, so I may solder into the other inputs or use the $15 encoder from Vigo in this. The pedals really have me wondering... maybe an A-pac, I really don't know. I'll be drilling holes into the shroud for the camera buttons, now before you throw a hissy fit remember 2 things, the shroud is pretty rough to begin with, and Haruman said it was ok. I may use the buttons I got from Nephasth that are clear and wire colored LEDs into them. I think it'll look neat.


I'll post more when more work is done, I'm still in the middle of getting the PC (AMD dual core 2.3)  together and seeing if I need to buy a video card for it for model 3 stuffs. I cant wait to figure out how to get Cruisn USA, Pole Position, SCUD Racer, etc all running without wanting to punch a baby.


proof of concept, a sega dreamcast via composite input


EDIT:
I always liked how people tracked how expensive their cabs were to make. So here's mine:
NEW Blood red T-Molding: $30
Pole Position Cabinet: $100
Logitech PS3 Wheel: $150
Red fans:$25
florescent fixture:$10
Vigo Encoder:$15
LED wiring and stuffs:$35
Dowel Rod for plugging my mistakes $4
EMUMovies LIFETIME subscription $60
4 way shifter (not installed yet) $42
Extra wires for the ZD encoder: $5
Plexiglass for the monitor and shroud: $20
Artwork printed for the shroud: $33
------------------------------------
Total so far: $509

free stuffs:
OTHER 27" (Sony)
27" TV (RCA)
Computer
old mouse for hack I didnt use
old DC wheel that broke and I rage smashed.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2014, 07:30:46 pm by Malenko »
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #1 on: October 17, 2011, 03:32:52 pm »
I only said it was OK since I have one now  >:D

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #2 on: October 17, 2011, 03:42:55 pm »
I have a Megatouch XL that was filled with roach crap....and roaches. (yay ebay!)  
I've scrubbed everything but the mobo.  It still stinks because of the mobo.
Reminds me that it's probably time to switch out the box of baking soda inside.   :-\

I'm envious that you were able to seal off the stank.



Pole Position boards are notorious for breaking down.  
Even if it was complete, I'd MAME it just to have something reliable.  >:D

Don't even consider not using analogue pedals.  
Things will be technically playable, but won't play well and will make you want to punch a baby.  (especially pole position)

Make sure you test out the games on that PC before sinking money into 270 degree controls.
A 2.3ghz dual core isn't going to run Cruis'n USA or Model 3.
If it's an AM3 socket , Newegg has a 3.2Ghz processor on sale occasionally for $65 (3.4Ghz triple that I use is around $90).
If it's an older socket, you might be better off just making it for older 360 degree wheel games.

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #3 on: October 19, 2011, 10:45:47 pm »
Ok, so Wheel is installed. All joking aside, it seriously looks like a magic trick.  The wheel is a interact concept 4 wheel for dreamcast, and the wheel doesnt separate from the body, at all. Im not sure exactly how I got it in there and Im not sure I could get it back out.


above: wheel installed to CPO, with VMU hidden behind the CPO

the best part about the VMU is it locks the wheel in behind the CPO, I had to notch the wood that the CPO bolts into in order to make it fit. you actually have to put the VMU in after you close the CP or else its really hard to get it to close.


above: CP re-installed into cab, you can see the wood notch


above: CP closed (sans bolts) with VMU in place

OK, so I covered the CP in "black leather texture" contact paper, was gonna do some faux carbon fiber, and I still might, but Im kinda antsy to get this pig running/playing. Im probably going to "rice" up the control panel overlay with car product stickers, and since I havent finalized a name or theme, its all up in the air. I was thinking  Rice Racer or something, iunno.


Here is where I currently stand. ignore the electrical tape holding the marquee in, Im trying to locate another bracket, heh. There is a dreamcast running in there, and I'll probably keep it in there too, I''ll just put the DC on top of the PC so you can swap the wheel from the trio-linker and plug it in the DC. I will be installing my spare PP shifter in there, wont be used  on DC games but will be for PC. I am still trying to figure out where exactly I wanna drill the holes in the CPO bezel for the camera buttons. in all the sit down cabs they are on the left, but it just feels more natural for them to be on the right above where the shifter will be.
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2011, 09:59:43 am »
Where are the  :blowup:?

 ;D

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2011, 10:04:08 am »
Where are the  :blowup:?

 ;D

quiet you! go mail out my triolinker! I sure the flames will be fanned when that shroud gets drilled.
Dont you have a pole position to restore?
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #6 on: October 20, 2011, 10:05:11 am »
I have the box right here with me at work...   :cheers:

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #7 on: October 20, 2011, 11:33:42 am »
Nice work getting that TV in there.

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #8 on: November 02, 2011, 06:11:01 pm »
Nice work getting that TV in there.

Thanks, I was kinda thinkin my thing is to jam giant CRTs where they dont belong ;)

Slight update:
Put together a nice dual core 2.66 cpu with a beefy video card and (2)250 GB HDs, got win7 64 on it, patched/updated, loaded up and configured all the software and......

they dont have a win7 64 driver for the trio linker plus =( I just wiped the drive and installed win7 32bit (and dropped down to 4 GB of ram) so Im in the midst of setting up the software side of everything again. I did however find the time to put red Tmolding on the front half of the cab. I dont wanna spend much on this machine and at the same time , get rid of old parts I dont want collecting fdust anymore.

black tmolding:


left side done:


both sides done:


I think the red tmolding looks really good on there. I need to find my square head bit so I can steal the marquee and monitor glass brackets off the other pole position, which BTW is for sale:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=115662.0
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #9 on: November 03, 2011, 05:20:15 pm »
Welp, another set back. The gas pedal stopped working. Its not the trio linker, I plugged the wheel back into the dreamcast and it doesnt work there. Using the DC wheel with the trio linker was why I wiped the machine and went with Win 7 32bit


Now Im going to scrap the DC idea and look for a PS2 , XBOX, or PC wheel.
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #10 on: November 03, 2011, 05:24:39 pm »
Lol... I have an Xbox wheel if you wants

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #11 on: November 03, 2011, 06:23:22 pm »
Now Im going to scrap the DC idea and look for a PS2 , XBOX, or PC wheel.

I'd steer clear of the Xbox wheel.  I'm pretty sure force feedback doesn't work in M2 or Supermodel with it.  (vibration maybe, real ffb no)
Another thing to keep in mind is that Logitech profiler can make life easier.

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #12 on: November 06, 2011, 01:57:05 pm »
Red t-molding looks great!  :applaud:

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #13 on: November 06, 2011, 08:30:56 pm »
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Logitech+-+Driving+Force+GT+for+PlayStation+2+and+PlayStation+3/8781213.p?id=1205246213512&skuId=8781213

That's the wheel I got. This free/scraps project is getting expensive. I built a little shelf and mounted the wheel but I removed the old metal control panel, I just cant make use of it because the shifter is molded into the wheel base and cant be separated. I used cable holder thingies and mounted the power splitter and ran a small extension cord to plug the speakers, TV, and marquee light , but just so I ran 1 cord to the main power splitter (internal neatness) not because I needed extra outlets. No way Im letting this thing catch fire, too much time and money sank into it.

I also drilled 6 holes (so far) into the control panel shroud, power and input for the TV and the 4 camera view buttons for Daytona/ Cruisn USA. I could only find a 1" spade bit so now I've got to gently make the holes slightly bigger. I originally was going to use the buttons I got from Nephasth and back light them with an LED to match up with the button color but I think Im gonna cheap out and just use the scrap buttons I have in the right colors.  If I cant figure out a way to make the control panel look pretty, there might be a 2 PP cabs for $100 deal in the BST section.

« Last Edit: November 07, 2011, 07:30:45 am by Malenko »
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #14 on: November 07, 2011, 02:58:09 pm »
Thanks, I was kinda thinkin my thing is to jam giant CRTs where they dont belong ;)
Just like all men, we like jamming giant things into places they don't belong.   :drool  >:D

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #15 on: November 07, 2011, 03:14:18 pm »
very nice.
the red T-molding makes a big difference. and that wheel is pretty decent.



My cabs
4 Player Arcade
X-men Arcade Remixed
My Pin Cab Attack of the PINZ cab
My Racing Cabinet Cab [URL=http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #16 on: November 07, 2011, 07:13:35 pm »
so the buttons came out just a tad crooked, I plan to fix that with a dremel next paycheck (yeah, this project is getting mega asspensive)  Im also going to stop by pepboys and see if they have any ricer stickers. Do you guys have any you wanna get rid of?

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #17 on: November 21, 2011, 09:13:46 am »
moved the power and input buttons from the shroud to the top back of the machine where you cant see them.

I have an idea on how to close up the CP, but I know its going to be a pain in the butt. I know the "camera" buttons are crooked, but its gonna be fixed now that I have a dremel, besides, the holes are just place holders.


Speaking of camera buttons, this is my idea for mine:

now I just need to get and wire up green, yellow, and red LEDs. Does anyone have a spare blue,yellow, and green button? I just need the outside "barrel" not the inner button or spring...I dont even need any switches.


Yes I know, crooked button syndrome but I didnt have a great angle to drill at and you cant see them so, *shrugs*


CPU is a Intel Core2Duo @ 2.66 with 4GB of RAM, I will be putting Win7 64 back on there and upping the RAM back to 8GBs. Nvidia 9800GT vid card and a 250 GB HD.
« Last Edit: November 21, 2011, 09:29:17 am by Malenko »
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #18 on: November 23, 2011, 10:11:45 pm »
new coin up button is made, Im not sure if Im gonna keep it the way it is, or if Im just gonna put fake coin mech buttons in the coin doors instead. Set up and ran Cruisn USA and Cruisn World, they ran perfect on the core2duo 2.66   and this is on the 32bit windows, should run even better on win7 64 (dont know how much impact the extra 4 GB of ram will have) Now to start figuring out how to set up a front end, I guess I could use the dpad on the wheel, but I just think it'd be neater to use the wheel

There really arent as many games in MAME that will work with my set up as I thought. Fortunately there are other emulators that run even more games I love.

Ive already gotten Cruisn' USA, Cruisn' World, Daytona USA (all of em), and Sega Rally all running pretty great. I think Im going to need some adjustments to make them closer to the real thing. All the model2 stuff feels pretty good, but for some reason the steering is really touchy and weird in the Cruisn games. Im going to stop adding games until I get the ones already on there running how I want them to. After the tweaks comes the front end. Over the holiday weekend Im really hoping to get the CP figured out, if not finished.  Its going to be really weird to not have a shifter on he panel, but I cant justify spending $80 or more on a 4 gear shifter.

I will post some more pix if I take any.
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #19 on: November 24, 2011, 01:00:42 pm »
picture update


Cruis'n running:


Ghetto light reflector:


PP marquee installed (for now):


original "bezel" cut to fit. This is the one that was torn up:
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #20 on: November 30, 2011, 05:30:24 pm »
Shroud redone.


Nephasth is helping me out big time by wiring me up some LEDs. Hes amazing and I'm mega grateful for his assistance. Wheel is gonna get "final mounted" this weekend, then I start cardboard cut outs to make the CP cover.
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #21 on: November 30, 2011, 06:05:15 pm »
Hey man great work im loving it so far :)

As an idea for the CP I know exactly what you can do I have done this a few times myself for my car.

You can get a piece of foam and cut around the wheel and then curve it so it seems to fit the cp nicely then use some spray on glue and use black vinyl I used this in my car previous to replace the side panels in the boot (im talking about foam that you lay on not Styrofoam) I think the black vinyl will give you a nice touch and it's quite cheap depending where you can get it (I can get marine grade vinyl from the local hardware store for $10 a meter so if you only get a small cut off it will be real cheap)

Hopefully that will give you an idea for the CP  ;D

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #22 on: December 01, 2011, 02:29:29 pm »
do you have a link to this foam stuff? its got potential, I'm just not sure what to look for.

THANKS!
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #23 on: December 01, 2011, 04:32:14 pm »
I don't have a link but it's furniture foam the same stuff in a couch pillow etc

http://www.foamnfabric.com/pictures/DSCF0006a.JPG

I've use it before to shape out something I liked then I wrapped it in vinyl and it keeps a nice shape but it's also soft and can be squished but it be very cheap and easy option for you.

Hell you could probably use a pillow and trim it to the shape for your project is you couldn't find the foam offcuts.
Now if you don't like the idea of the surround around the wheel being soft and squishable then your other option is to use wood or another rigid material.

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #24 on: December 06, 2011, 07:15:14 pm »

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #25 on: December 07, 2011, 02:21:50 pm »
YOU ROCK!


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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #26 on: December 08, 2011, 08:18:52 pm »


So Windows 7 Enterprise 64 bit is installed. Nvidia driver didnt like 8 GB of system ram, so I bumped my computer upstairs from 3GB to 4GB and took 2 of the 1GB sticks and put it in this machine (I'm posting from the PP cab , heh) so it has 6GB. I still have (2) 512 sticks left over.

I still need to set up all the software on this again and decide on a front end. Found my old fat PS2 so that'll go in here on top of the PC; Im just not sure if PS1 games can be played with the USB wheel on the PS2; if they cant I'll just use a PS1 emulator on the PC.

good specs for a freebie computer,eh?

Still waiting for Haruman to scan his PP1 shroud art, so I can whip something up in photoshop. maybe this weekend after the software set up I'll finally figure out where I want the wheel mounted.  Nephasth came through big time on the LEDs and Im all antsy in the pantsies to install them. At least it *FEELS* like it starting to come together.
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #27 on: December 08, 2011, 08:42:04 pm »
Nephasth came through big time on the LEDs and Im all antsy in the pantsies to install them.

You should have them come Monday or Tuesday, so I better see them installed on Wednesday! ;D

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #28 on: December 09, 2011, 09:09:08 am »
Still waiting for Haruman to scan his PP1 shroud art

 :afro:

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion
« Reply #29 on: December 12, 2011, 05:35:30 pm »
some progress now. Nephasth came through BIG TIME with the prewired LEDs.

I took a button, that I ironically bought from Nephasth, and have the cut a channel where the hole was drilled for an LED


ooohhh look at the pretty UMK3 screen burn on my MKII


inserted and waiting to be plugged in


everything wired up, including Vigo's encoder. I cant say much about the encoder, its just for coin up, start, and camera views. I might run a wire down near the coin door to act as a service mode button




Lights on, lit up:


Lights OFF , lit up:



2 distance shots. me likey.





As you can see, I have yet to figure out how I want to final mount the wheel. I am just not sure if Im gonna make people stand or build a seat addon for adult, so kids can stand there.

Anyone know where I can order some tinted plexi fairly cheap?
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion (new pix 12/12/11 of LED goodness!)
« Reply #30 on: December 12, 2011, 05:58:34 pm »
Wow! Those turned out great! They look much better actually installed in the buttons. :applaud:

For the tinted plexi, I'm sure you've already checked them out, but I'll be going with TAP Plastics' Solar Grey for the Two-Headed Beast. Two sheets cut to size for me would run around $30 I believe.

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion (new pix 12/12/11 of LED goodness!)
« Reply #31 on: December 13, 2011, 02:41:09 pm »
Wow! Those turned out great! They look much better actually installed in the buttons. :applaud:

For the tinted plexi, I'm sure you've already checked them out, but I'll be going with TAP Plastics' Solar Grey for the Two-Headed Beast. Two sheets cut to size for me would run around $30 I believe.

Nep, you raise the bar for me when it comes to wiring! I like what you did there.

Did you not use resistors on those LEDs?
« Last Edit: December 13, 2011, 02:43:15 pm by yotsuya »
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion (new pix 12/12/11 of LED goodness!)
« Reply #32 on: December 13, 2011, 02:50:47 pm »
Yea, the resistors are soldered into the harness next to the large connector. Got some heat shrink tubing over them. They're 460 ohm resistors, all LEDs are wired in parallel.

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion (new pix 12/12/11 of LED goodness!)
« Reply #33 on: December 13, 2011, 02:52:50 pm »
I see, so you have them that far back. Interesting.
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion (new pix 12/12/11 of LED goodness!)
« Reply #34 on: December 14, 2011, 08:12:59 am »
Nep, you raise the bar for me when it comes to wiring! I like what you did there.

That's an understatement, the work is sooooo professional. I hope to have some time this weekend to tinker with the cab, the LEDs have motivated me :)
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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion (new pix 12/19/11 LCD marquee)
« Reply #35 on: December 19, 2011, 06:15:17 pm »
ok, so I took the trashed pole position marquee and trimmed it down, and put a 7" LCD up there, dunno if its gonna stay or not. It really all depends on if I can get the model 2 and 3 marquees to show on that panel without a lot of hassle.  I also hacked apart some speakers and wired them into the existing PP speakers but they didnt sound good at all, so I put the PC speakers back in.

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion (new pix 12/19/11 LCD marquee)
« Reply #36 on: December 19, 2011, 07:07:13 pm »
ok, so I took the trashed pole position marquee and trimmed it down, and put a 7" LCD up there...



Me likey! ;)

Definitely bumps this project up a notch! :applaud:

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion (new pix 12/19/11 LCD marquee)
« Reply #37 on: January 13, 2012, 11:24:47 am »
How has the LCD marquee been treating you? Has it been worth the effort? It looks absolutely awesome, BTW.  :applaud:

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion (new pix 12/19/11 LCD marquee)
« Reply #38 on: January 13, 2012, 02:51:45 pm »
Wow, did you ever go over budget with this project.
Looks pretty awesome though!

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Re: Not Yet Named Pole Position conversion (new pix 12/19/11 LCD marquee)
« Reply #39 on: March 06, 2012, 09:29:16 pm »
I started to work on the cab again because monday I wwill be taking over the duties of a coworker that is departing, so I know I wont have a ton of time to do anything.

I got a newer Sony Trinatron flat CRT TV to replace the beat up RCA I have in the cab. Its not mounted, Im still working out some of the kinks.



That's 640x480 over component. I'm sure I can get it running 800x600 with no issues.
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