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HAPP WHEEL / SERVO / FFB HACK - 1st Racing Cab Build. My Notes
gbeef:
If your are planning on using a G27 or G25 it does have 2 motors inside in the side. Im not sure if that matters but just a heads up
brad808:
--- Quote from: gbeef on December 06, 2011, 06:55:29 pm ---If your are planning on using a G27 or G25 it does have 2 motors inside in the side. Im not sure if that matters but just a heads up
--- End quote ---
Not planning on using a g27 myself. Was just pondering the idea of trying to mod the driving force to be able to handle the large current that the happ motor would require
brad808:
--- Quote from: ScottoKong on December 06, 2011, 05:47:01 am ---Hi All
I've been reading everything I can.
Translating Dutch and French like crazy!
A couple of questions.
1. Everything I read talks about powering the HAPP Motor with 24V.
From the manuals I've seen for Cruis'n USA the cab motor was driven by 18V.
My question is why 24V and not 18V?
If I could go with 18V I'd use the PSU already in the cab and save $100.
2. Also is it possible to get rid of the rattling when going straight that I've read about on some forums?
I just want to be able to play daytona and sega rally on model 2.
I've read where others have ended up giving up on this mod and decided to save their dollars and look at modding a sega motor.
I'm now off to get stuck into cleaning the cab - 17 years worth of dust ::)
Scotto
--- End quote ---
So I was just reading in the manual for the amc servo amp I have and it needs at least 20volt power supply. Double check the manual fir the model you got
ScottoKong:
Hi All
I'm still waiting for my servo amp to arrive. While I'm waiting I've managed to hack a Logitech driving force wheel to use the Crusin USA wheel and pedals. I only hope I can get the FFB working so easily!
I've tried to wire the 4 speed shifter (with 4 microswitches) using the info over at Marks Arcade. http://home.comcast.net/~mshaker/marks_arcade_006.htm
I've got the gears registering in the profiler and in the configuration settings in Model2 but they're fairly unusable - looks like I'll need diodes like Mark talks about. I hadn't planned on going down that path - I'm planning on using an ipac2 down the track when I upgrade my 1/2 finished MAME cab to 4 players.
I'm a little confused by Mark's instructions. All 4 switches are daisy chained and enter the PCB via pin 8, and use pins 12 through 15. Do I need to ditch the daisy chain, rewire and put a diode on the common of each microswitch?
Here's a couple of pics of my heavily faded dash and 17 years of dust.
As always - Thanks heaps
brad808:
"All 4 switches are daisy chained and enter the PCB via pin 8, and use pins 12 through 15. Do I need to ditch the daisy chain, rewire and put a diode on the common of each microswitch?"
Yes you should be connecting each switch common with a diode to pin 8 and then connect the n.o. to either 12,13,14,15. Otherwise you will get cross between the buttons. Is that what you mean by unusable? You are getting multiple/ random button presses?
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