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Poll

Mounting speakers just below the marquee, should the speaker be dropped into the hole or be screwed in behind it?

Behind the wood making use of the gasket
1 (100%)
Dropped so the wood is not visable between the grill and the speaker
0 (0%)

Total Members Voted: 1

Voting closed: May 14, 2019, 04:09:48 am

  

Author Topic: "Coin Art" (Updated 2021)  (Read 39962 times)

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jimfath

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"Coin Art" (Updated 2021)
« on: September 27, 2011, 02:38:25 am »
I have been working, for a while now, on the plans for a new MAME cabinet. It's a first build too. GULP...  I'm REALLY close to the point where I'm ready to buy and start cutting wood and I'd LOVE some thoughts and feedback on the plans before I do... especially the CP layout. I'm still learning sketch up so the placement of the controls are an approximation but they are pretty much where I'd like them to be.

I was painfully trying to sketch plans based off knievel's Evoltion and saw lilrascal's project announcement and realized he was working on the same concept.  lilrascal was kind enough to send me some sketchup plans that he was working on with some help from TopJimmyCooks. I took that sketch and modified it for what I was looking to do.

I went for the feel of the Knievel's Evo however my cab is going to be a 4 player control deck as I have friends over quite a bit to play TMNT and various other 4 player games. I think I've made it look OK but I can't really tell. Short of constructing it out of cardboard, I'm not able to tell how big this will feel. My old cabinet was HUGE and I was going to shrink it down but decided that there were some really cool things to be done with a new build and I can sell the old one as is without risking destroying it trying to shrink it down. Again, I can't really tell how this layout will scale. I'm hoping to avoid it looking like an aircraft carrier.

The side art is not fully realized in the sketchup. I am going to have those 8 bit shapes however not in those exact positions. They will be block acrylic plexi embedded in the wood. More on that later. Also the joysticks aren't there because I haven't mastered making spheres. You get the idea though. 
« Last Edit: February 18, 2021, 08:40:21 pm by jimfath »
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Unstupid

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #1 on: September 27, 2011, 03:42:48 am »
You should read this thread: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=111320.0. The whole thing!  ;)

jimfath

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #2 on: September 27, 2011, 04:30:59 am »
You should read this thread: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=111320.0. The whole thing!  ;)
Oh I did...  ;D


TRON STICK BAD!!!!  
RRRAAAAAAAGH!!!!

I realize that my plans won't actually need the 4 way controller after all. I took out the 7th button as in my op I referenced mkIII and NARC but I actually get by with the 6. Might not need the 7th.
« Last Edit: September 27, 2011, 05:33:45 am by jimfath »
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EightBySix

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #3 on: September 27, 2011, 07:44:42 am »
They will be block acrylic plexi embedded in the wood. More on that later.

That sounds interesting.... Dont tease us!

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #4 on: September 27, 2011, 12:18:35 pm »
I don't think slim builds lend themselves well to 4 player setups since the biggest 4:3 screen you are going to get is 21.3 inches, and that is decent, but not huge.  The problems you will have is this:

A 21.3 inch screen is about 17 inches wide, A good 4 player panel should be at least 36 inches wide, in my opinion, so the CP width is going to be about 20 inches wider than the screen, which means that either your CP overhangs a lot on either side, making it look way too huge for the cabinet, or you make the cabinet wider, resulting in a huge bezel around the screen.  Huge bezels around the screen is probably the dominant theme in crapmame projects.

I will suggest to you what I suggest to everyone else.  Get either a blue tooth receiver or a xbox 360 dongle for your PC and get 2 wireless Tekken 6 joysticks.  That way, when you want to play 4 players, you just turn on the sticks and people can sit on stools with the sticks on their laps, they are good sized sticks, about the size of a college textbook.  You can find the sticks for 40 bucks or so apiece on ebay.  It gives you a wireless solution that is pretty aesthetically pleasing.  Or you can just opt for wired hori ex2 sticks, you can find them for around 35 bucks, and just plug them into a usb port.

Just my 2 cents. 

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2011, 03:36:08 pm »
A 21.3 inch screen is about 17 inches wide, A good 4 player panel should be at least 36 inches wide, in my opinion, so the CP width is going to be about 20 inches wider than the screen, which means that either your CP overhangs a lot on either side, making it look way too huge for the cabinet, or you make the cabinet wider, resulting in a huge bezel around the screen.  Huge bezels around the screen is probably the dominant theme in crapmame projects.

Pure poetry, i have to remember this how gently you explain the NR1 rule  :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :cheers:

jimfath

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2011, 08:43:02 pm »
They will be block acrylic plexi embedded in the wood. More on that later.

That sounds interesting.... Dont tease us!

Basically I'm toying with the idea of cutting 8 bit shapes with a jigsaw into the cabinet sides. Then custom cut a block acrylic plexi (prolly 1/4" to 1/2" thick) to fit perfectly inside the shape. Then, mounted about 1.5" behind it, will be a second 1/4" ply board covered with quarters or tokens and illuminated with light. The Space invader will have quarters behind it for for a nice silver look and the pacman will have tokens to give it a golden look. The Ghost would likely be quarters and a blue filter put on the light(s) illuminating it or use blue plexi if it's not cost prohibative. The Galaga ship would be THE toughest in terms of shape and color.   




I want to make some test cuts in some scrap wood first to see if 1) I can even manage to cut these shapes and 2) see if it looks lame balls.

As per the Monitor... It's a 27" in LCD. I've been playing around with the monitor and it stretches ok for me. The letter box allows for some of the bezelartwork files to show.

I haven't figured out where to put the coin and 1-4 player buttons yet.





After reading through the Franken panel thread, I believe I've offended many with this build on many many grounds. I feel like adding some odd shaped guns now to stoke the fire.  ;)


This is meant totally tongue in cheek. I know the debates about aesthetics, designs, and game play will rage on forever.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2012, 01:25:35 am by jimfath »
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #7 on: October 07, 2011, 03:20:34 am »
Acquired more things for the build. Ever closer.


New Ultrastik 360. Reconsidering getting the mounting plates. I did spring [/i] the extra $3 for the more rigid spring. Pun intended...and not regretted at all.


I found a coin dealer that sold me 200 random arcade tokens and 100 "Fun N Games" arcade tokens. I grew up next to a Fun N games so I specifically sought them out.


Cleaning them requires using noxious brass cleaners and it's going to be a long process. I've started doing about 30 each when I have time. I'll likely have to clean and reclean them.

I've got some test wood from a construction site next door. I managed to make some saw horses out of tossed 2x4's and have some 1/2" ply wood to practice cutting patterns out of. I had a gig fall through this weekend so hopefully that means i'll have time to start cutting.
« Last Edit: October 07, 2011, 03:24:57 am by jimfath »
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #8 on: October 07, 2011, 04:14:51 am »
I will suggest to you what I suggest to everyone else.  Get either a blue tooth receiver or a xbox 360 dongle for your PC and get 2 wireless Tekken 6 joysticks.  That way, when you want to play 4 players, you just turn on the sticks and people can sit on stools with the sticks on their laps, they are good sized sticks, about the size of a college textbook.  You can find the sticks for 40 bucks or so apiece on ebay.  It gives you a wireless solution that is pretty aesthetically pleasing.  Or you can just opt for wired hori ex2 sticks, you can find them for around 35 bucks, and just plug them into a usb port.

Just my 2 cents. 

This is certainly a possibility. I'm planning on making a few mock ups in cardboard to see how all this feels. With the large monitor I think I might be able to pull off a 4p cp but I'm not 100%.  I've been revising in sketch up a lot.
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jimfath

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #9 on: October 19, 2011, 05:58:33 pm »
So I started cutting some things to try out my new tools (new to me that is...thanks Craigs list) and also to test my wood working abilities.

The tools performed well enough but I can't say the same for me. I thought a good ice breaker would be to try and make my own saw horses. It proved to be an anguishing hour of time that I'll never get back. :banghead: They were ugly, uneven, and worse than anything I ever made in woodshop back in high school. I even tried again with those metal brackets you just slap on 2x4's and clamp down. It was still uneven and utterly wobbly. So much for that confidence builder. I found a pair of premade plastic ones at Home depot and got them. I figured I'd need a precise flat surface with quality tools to give myself a decent chance at making this cab the way I want it. I want to get more comfortable cutting before I buy the actual cab parts. With some minor success I would feel ready enough to tackle the cabinet.

My spirit is a little broken but next is to try the jig saw out and see how hard it would be to carve those 8bit characters into the ply. They are building new houses on my street and there are a lot of pieces of scrap wood that I can carve up. I'll post these pics.

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #10 on: October 19, 2011, 06:36:48 pm »
Be sure to get a fine blade for the jigsaw and use the appropriate orbital setting.

Otherwise, you'll likely get a ton of tearout on the top surface

While I'm certainly the last one to suggest against a frankenpanel, the idea of picking up two wireless fightsticks and using them for the 4p games would definitely simplify your build and make for a little friendlier cabinet.

4p CP's are huge, and they really need a podium style cabinet with large separate screen, or a very large cabinet to accommodate them nicely. Mine's 4' wide and it still feels a tad cramped with 4 players.

But if you do go with a 4p cp, make sure the sizes are such that you can still get it through a door (or that the CP is completely removable). It'd suck to have to tear it apart to get it in the house!

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #11 on: October 19, 2011, 11:28:50 pm »
Practice!  Wood working is a physical skill, you can't improve physical skills without physically doing them, just like you can't learn to ride a bike from reading about it in a book.
:)

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #12 on: October 20, 2011, 11:40:10 am »
Quote
Practice!

+1

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #13 on: October 20, 2011, 12:00:28 pm »
Cleaning them requires using noxious brass cleaners and it's going to be a long process. I've started doing about 30 each when I have time. I'll likely have to clean and reclean them.

Try making up a paste with white vinegar and table salt. Works wonders and you can leave them soaking for a wee while to get heavy stains out. Try it with just one coin first just to make sure. ;)

jimfath

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #14 on: February 03, 2012, 01:39:30 am »
Cleaning them requires using noxious brass cleaners and it's going to be a long process. I've started doing about 30 each when I have time. I'll likely have to clean and reclean them.

Try making up a paste with white vinegar and table salt. Works wonders and you can leave them soaking for a wee while to get heavy stains out. Try it with just one coin first just to make sure. ;)

Tried the white vinegar and table salt paste. The mix pitted and dulled the surface of the tokens I tried it on. The salt and vinegar technique is mentioned a lot on coin collecting websites but I think the tokens might be too poorly made to with stand the process. The Brasso has been working ok but I ran out of it already. More to come.

I just got some money from selling my old cab and am FINALLY going forward with this build. I know have the approval of the wife and my job and income situation has improved from last year. Glad to start breathing life into this project again. Starting with a cardboard mock up to make sure it can fit in my new apartment. The VERY first cab I bought was a dedicated NARC and it didn't fit into my apartment. It occupied my garage space for a month while I relisted it for sale. There was an outlet in the garage and I'm not gonna lie. I played it out there a couple of times.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2012, 01:53:28 am by jimfath »
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #15 on: June 24, 2012, 07:13:38 am »
So I'm rebooting this project as I finished cleaning the last of the tokens and actually have some time. I've been busy these past few months trying to get acting work. 1 bank commercial later and I'm back at it.

I'm ever leaning away from the 4 player to a 2 player set up for space. Working up some ways to easily add the 3rd and 4th player joys and buttons as blue tooth controllers or maybe some sort of morphing CP. More on that later.

Today I wanted to see what the tokens would look like conceptually so I cut some shapes and traced and cut them into cardboard and mimicked what I plan on doing to the sides to see how it looks.

For the Space Invader shape I would use actual quarters for a silver look but went with the tokens here as they were laying around. I planed on using tokens for a Pacman shape as he's yellow. 

The plan would be to buy 1/2 plexi and cut it the shape out of it. Then cut and mount that plexi shape into the sides of the cabinet. Behind the plexi, about 2-4" behind would be a well lit board covered in coins. See above for the shapes.

I'm already rethinking that Galaga ship shape. It's probably going to be very hard to make all those cuts.

Here is the cardboard mock up for a proof of concept. Tomorrow I see if my tools can actually cut the shape out of some scrap wood.






« Last Edit: June 24, 2012, 07:19:41 am by jimfath »
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #16 on: June 25, 2012, 05:44:46 pm »
I found a plastics store near me that specializes in custom cutting and a whole array of types of sheeting. To get these shapes I'd need about $30-40 dollars worth of 3/4" plexi sheeting. To have them laser cut it, would cost $80 to set up each shape then another $80 for each cut... .yikes.

The teenager working at the counter wasn't too helpful when it came to asking about cutting this kind of material. I advanced my theory about tracing the shape and using a series of pilot holds and a fine toothed jig saw blade to do the work. He seemed to think it crazy and expensive. I showed him the shape and he encouraging with my prospective project.

Anyone here ever cut and shape thick plexi before? I know many of you have experience with the overlays and what not.
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #17 on: June 25, 2012, 05:55:21 pm »
Instead of cutting, why not paint the back side of the plexi and tape off the shapes so they stay clear? But I suppose you just want plexi inserts in the cabinet wood...
« Last Edit: June 25, 2012, 05:57:31 pm by Nephasth »

jimfath

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #18 on: June 25, 2012, 06:14:33 pm »
Instead of cutting, why not paint the back side of the plexi and tape off the shapes so they stay clear? But I suppose you just want plexi inserts in the cabinet wood...

that's definitely an option but part of the concept is the plastic fitting into the wood like a puzzle piece. It's so thick that I feel like paint would read. It would have to be on the front and back of the plexi. Perhaps installing a square 3/4" window into the side and then cut the shape into laminate going over it. That cutting will require some nerves.
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #19 on: June 25, 2012, 07:56:55 pm »
part of the concept is the plastic fitting into the wood like a puzzle piece.
  Have you considered this?

Cut the invaders out of 1/4" acrylic. (maybe 1/8"?)

Trace the acrylic invaders onto the cab.

Cut a square piece of acrylic larger than the invader.

Route out a 1/2" deep square the size of the square acrylic piece on the inside of the cab.

Carefully route the invaders on the outside of the cab.

Mount the invaders onto the square acrylic using some clear acrylic cement around the edges.


Scott

Edit: Saw this on KLOV.

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=186581

Maybe you can CNC your aliens.
« Last Edit: June 25, 2012, 10:39:52 pm by PL1 »

jimfath

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #20 on: July 01, 2012, 03:24:45 am »
New design, Trackball arrived, Spinner suggestions?

After meditating awhile on suggestions here and also looking over "crap mame", I've migrated the design back toward a 2p CP. I like Donksy's idea of having (2) blue tooth fight sticks whenever folks are over and want to play a 4-player game for now. I might leave some room for expansion later.



I thought I'd start with the CP on this since I've never built a Cab before and I'm not 100% how I'd like the CP to be.
Seems like a lot of builds start with the CP.

I printed out two slagcoin joy and button layouts and placed them on a cardboard version of the CP


I've seen a few folks build a cardboard versions first and go from there. Slowly amassing cardboard where I can find it.
I remember my old premade cabinet had the joys closer to the player than the screen. I'm just playing around with a few ideas here. The CP will have (1) mag stick and (1) leaf pro. I'm not settled on the mag stick. Very loose.
There will be a spinner, and a track ball.

SPINNER
I am still looking for a spinner. On my old pre-built cab I had a Slikstik tornado. It was fine but I don't know if I needed the continuous spinning. I don't remember if there was anything special about the teeth or the distance between them compared to the other spinners that are available. 
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #21 on: July 01, 2012, 06:15:57 am »
SPINNER
I am still looking for a spinner. On my old pre-built cab I had a Slikstik tornado. It was fine but I don't know if I needed the continuous spinning. I don't remember if there was anything special about the teeth or the distance between them compared to the other spinners that are available. 

The TurboTwist 2 is a great choice.

The premium knobs have the "Accu-Twist" system option that allows you to set the friction between the knob and base.  If you don't get one of the premium knobs, you might want to get the ESC.

Also +1 on the Mini-Racer steering wheels.

Something to consider is that since you will have a trackball and a spinner, you may want to run them on separate encoders to avoid two possible problems/inconveniences:

1. If you put the spinner on the Z-axis, windows handles this as 4 steps per transition, instead of one-to-one for the X-axis and Y-axis. This causes serious playability problems.  (See thread here.)

2. If the spinner and the trackball are on the same encoder, you need to stop moving both for several seconds before you transition to the other control.  This can be rather annoying if you bump one control while reaching for the other.  I use 2 encoders (TT2 encoder board and Mini-Pac Opti) and can use either control at any time.


Scott

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #22 on: July 01, 2012, 03:18:26 pm »
Thanks Scott

The TurboTwist 2 is a great choice.

The premium knobs have the "Accu-Twist" system option that allows you to set the friction between the knob and base.  If you don't get one of the premium knobs, you might want to get the ESC.

I really like the idea of changing the resistance. Definitely would get the esc. Is the spinning inertia noticeable with it? The slikstik I had previously boasted a 3-5 minute continuous spin. Not sure when that would come into play. Maybe would help during the times I was playing tempest, had a stroke, and passed out on the fire button. ;)

Also +1 on the Mini-Racer steering wheels.
Hadn't really thought about putting a steering wheel on it but that would be great with off road and super Spring. Does it fit over the knob or do you remove the knob and place it on the shaft. How long does it take to change? Probably just an Allen key, yes?
That begs the question, what do you use for a gas pedal.

Something to consider is that since you will have a trackball and a spinner, you may want to run them on separate encoders to avoid two possible problems/inconveniences:

1. If you put the spinner on the Z-axis, windows handles this as 4 steps per transition, instead of one-to-one for the X-axis and Y-axis. This causes serious playability problems.  (See thread here.)

2. If the spinner and the trackball are on the same encoder, you need to stop moving both for several seconds before you transition to the other control.  This can be rather annoying if you bump one control while reaching for the other.  I use 2 encoders (TT2 encoder board and Mini-Pac Opti) and can use either control at any time.
This makes sense. I'll probably tackle this as I get close to putting it together. I think I know how to connect up the encoders but it's tips like these that will really keep me running smoothly. I'll probably come back to this once the demp CP is cut and ready to test.
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #23 on: July 01, 2012, 05:27:37 pm »
Interesting choice of a monitor, wonder how these work?
Bubble Bobble YAWN

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #24 on: July 01, 2012, 08:07:31 pm »
Hadn't really thought about putting a steering wheel on it but that would be great with off road and super Spring. Does it fit over the knob or do you remove the knob and place it on the shaft. How long does it take to change? Probably just an Allen key, yes?
That begs the question, what do you use for a gas pedal.

Depending on the knob you choose, it uses either a small allen setscrew or a small common setscrew.

The steering wheel just slips onto the 1/4" shaft and is held in place by friction and gravity. 

It will take you longer to find an allen wrench than it takes to change from knob to wheel and back again.   :lol

I hooked up one of these in parallel with two of my P2 buttons and it works great for a microswitch-type gas/brake or up/down for Discs of TRON.



It has 2 microswitches so a stereo jack/plug will work great if you want to make this modular/removable.

The wire entry notch on the rocker body can handle any cable up to the size of a parallel printer cable and comes with several cable retaining options.


Scott

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #25 on: July 01, 2012, 08:56:16 pm »
Hi Jim,

I love the idea of your acrylic cut outs. I'm a plastic fabricator by trade and I run a CNC router and LASER at my business in Australia.

Bonding clear acrylic sucks. You will have to get it right the first time with no solvent/glue runs or burns, these can be polished out but there will always be evidence of the blemish. No offence to PL1 but weld-on 16 is not the right glue to use in this application, it is too thick and you will see your glue line. With what you are trying to achieve I would avoid glue of any sort if possible

This is how I would do it using 3mm, 1/8" acrylic. Don't bother with the jigsaw you will spend hours with a file cleaning it up. 3mm acrylic will be much cheaper to cut as well. Cut a square in the side of your cabinet and route a 3mm deep lip on the edge and have a piece of black acrylic to sit in the routed lip and have your shapes cut into the black acrylic. Then use and over sized piece of clear stuck to the back of the black with very thin double sided tape. This will give you a 3mm, or the thickness of your black acrylic, recess to the clear. Of course you don't have to use black or square holes, you could do circles of coloured acrylic that would illuminate as well

Are you wanting the acrylic to sit flush with the side of the cab or protrude past it? If so that is a different story all together, still do able though


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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #26 on: July 01, 2012, 11:57:17 pm »
No offence to PL1 but weld-on 16 is not the right glue to use in this application, it is too thick and you will see your glue line.

None taken.  +1 to your experience and suggestions.  I was originally thinking the glue line would be mostly concealed by the edge of the wood, but you are correct.


The only other thought that came to mind is if you want laminate for the entire side of the cab except the invader.  Depending on the look you want to achieve, either black acrylic or sheet metal would probably work well with the following procedure:

1. Cut an square hole larger than the invader in the side of the cab.

2. Cut a negative invader outline (the invader is the hole) out of 1/8" black acrylic.  (or really thin sheet metal with a sheet metal nibbling tool and files)

3. Countersink the outside of the square hole so the black acrylic/sheet metal rests flush.

4. Laminate the side of the cab.

5. Place the laminate side down and use the black acrylic/sheet metal as a template to carefully trim the laminate. Paint exposed inside edges as/if desired

6. Place clear acrylic behind black acrylic/sheet metal.

7. Make the "eyes" using black acrylic, paint, or painted sheet metal.


Scott

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #27 on: July 03, 2012, 06:54:22 pm »
Are you wanting the acrylic to sit flush with the side of the cab or protrude past it? If so that is a different story all together, still do able though

The idea was to cut the shape out of the cabinet and have the acrylic shape slide right into like a puzzle piece. But it sounds like the glue might show if I went that route, and if I went the original route, per cost, I'd have to cut it myself with a jig saw which would mean a lot of time. I think I can still cut the shape out of the cabinet and just leave it open with the coins illuminated behind it. I thought a thick block of plastic might look cool but it's sounding more and more unfeasible. 
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #28 on: July 03, 2012, 07:25:39 pm »
Is there a preference among PS2 or USB encoders?

So I reassembled the PC tower that used to sit in my old arcade cabinet. I was able to upgrade the ram to 8 gb and it still has plenty of room on the HDD's (about 400 gig).

The mobo has on-board PS2 connections and USB2.0 connections available. Since my next move is to create a couple of CP configurations, I need to order an encoder so I can connect and test the CP.

So I searched on here for what the preferred connection is. USB or PS2. I was excited to read THIS thread but soon was overwhelmed as I got buried in a pile of jargon and spirited debate. I found a few other threads like that as well so I thought I'd pose the question here. Bear in mind the issues with the other threads was that they were way over my head technologically.

Are there any real tangible differences between PS2 and USB connected encoders? Do encoders utilize USB 2.0, 3.0? Does that even matter?

My gut says to order a USB connection as that's what I used before (Ipac 4) where I really didn't notice any lag. But maybe times have changed. That eq was purchased in 05. These buttons will also be connected to LED wiz during the final configuration. Probably 2016 at this rate.  ::)




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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #29 on: July 03, 2012, 07:35:44 pm »
I hooked up one of these in parallel with two of my P2 buttons and it works great for a microswitch-type gas/brake or up/down for Discs of TRON.



It has 2 microswitches so a stereo jack/plug will work great if you want to make this modular/removable.

The wire entry notch on the rocker body can handle any cable up to the size of a parallel printer cable and comes with several cable retaining options.
Scott

Do gas pedals tend to be more switch or pots? I suppose for free wheel games like Super Offroad and super sprint, it's just a microswitch. I'm looking at gas pedals of both variety. There isn't a cure all for this is there? one that does both?
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #30 on: July 03, 2012, 07:41:17 pm »
I hooked up one of these in parallel with two of my P2 buttons and it works great for a microswitch-type gas/brake or up/down for Discs of TRON.



It has 2 microswitches so a stereo jack/plug will work great if you want to make this modular/removable.

The wire entry notch on the rocker body can handle any cable up to the size of a parallel printer cable and comes with several cable retaining options.
Scott

Do gas pedals tend to be more switch or pots? I suppose for free wheel games like Super Offroad and super sprint, it's just a microswitch. I'm looking at gas pedals of both variety. There isn't a cure all for this is there? one that does both?

Just put a microswitch at the end of the analog pedal's travel...

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #31 on: July 03, 2012, 09:39:13 pm »
Do gas pedals tend to be more switch or pots? I suppose for free wheel games like Super Offroad and super sprint, it's just a microswitch. I'm looking at gas pedals of both variety. There isn't a cure all for this is there? one that does both?

Just put a microswitch at the end of the analog pedal's travel...

Good idea, Nep, as long as the pedal construction allows room like these appear to.



For me, this started as a Discs of Tron push/pull spinner workaround for my portable/modular build.  The gas/brake idea came a little later.

At some point, I plan on adding pot pedals as well.  Probably a couple like these from Divemaster.


Are there more switch or pot pedal games? -- Not sure.  If you only choose one, pots are probably better for gameplay/control, but I can't confirm that from personal experience.


Scott

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #32 on: July 04, 2012, 08:19:51 am »
Are there more switch or pot pedal games? -- Not sure.  If you only choose one, pots are probably better for gameplay/control, but I can't confirm that from personal experience.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0ArE1chsgHXQodDd2ckdjLVY3Ujlad2tZWUpteDNtcXc&authkey=CIrIhMwE&hl=en&authkey=CIrIhMwE#gid=0
Under A/D under the Pedal Column.  A=analogue(pot) D=digital(switch)

An analogue pedal will work just fine mapped in place of a switch in mame, but it doesn't work so well the other way around.
It depends on how seriously you take the game.  A switch is fine for casual play, but you won't get as far in some games.
Pole Position is bad about squeeling the tires and losing time without an analogue pedal.
Super Offroad and Super Sprint work fine without it.  I always just mashed the pedal anyway as a kid.

If the added few bucks isn't a huge deal, go with a pedal with a poteniometer in it.
« Last Edit: July 04, 2012, 08:21:32 am by BadMouth »

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #33 on: July 05, 2012, 03:58:01 am »
Something to consider is that since you will have a trackball and a spinner, you may want to run them on separate encoders to avoid two possible problems/inconveniences:

1. If you put the spinner on the Z-axis, windows handles this as 4 steps per transition, instead of one-to-one for the X-axis and Y-axis. This causes serious playability problems.  (See thread here.)

2. If the spinner and the trackball are on the same encoder, you need to stop moving both for several seconds before you transition to the other control.  This can be rather annoying if you bump one control while reaching for the other.  I use 2 encoders (TT2 encoder board and Mini-Pac Opti) and can use either control at any time.
Scott

 :cheers:
Thanks for the heads up on two different encoders for the spinner and trackball. I'm still looking at encoders. Not sure which direction to go. I'm not sure if there is a dfference between the USB and PS2 connections. I'm familiar with the Ipac4 so I'll probably end up going that route.
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #34 on: July 18, 2012, 05:53:41 am »
Today I dumpster dived and got some plywood to start trying out the 1st of 3 possible CP layouts. It's really shítty wood but it's just practice anyway. I'm shíttily cutting shítty wood.

Still reading through that long Bit filled, trolled out, flamed out thread about USB vs PS2. I was unable to reach a consensus.

I'm ordering an Ipac 2 and just need to know if there is a difference between USB or PS2. The Mobo is older an has PS2 connections. I'm going to email Andy and see what he says.

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #35 on: July 18, 2012, 09:27:14 am »
PS2 and USB both work just fine.  I used a PS2 Keywiz and I am very happy with it.  One thing to consider is that some newer pc's are coming without a PS2 connection.  Might be more future proof to go with the USB, although there are adapters.

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #36 on: July 18, 2012, 11:47:33 am »
First thing I thought of when I read your new box's name:

It's worth the listen.

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #37 on: July 18, 2012, 06:49:43 pm »
Ha... That's crazy. But he's right, 90's Russia was SUPER mob driven.

The name The Machine is temporary until the final CP design is decided upon. I hoping to cut it tomorrow but I'm auditioning a lot this week so I haven't had a lot of time. I like a 4 hour window to work in the garage. I also need to get more scrap wood. I heard back from Andy and confirmed that USB connection is fine on the encoders so one is being ordered.


Also, I found a picture of the first thing to wet my appetite as far as putting a cab in my house. It was in a issue of Nintendo Power. I think they were either giving it away or someone was showing the magazine what they had done.

Either way, I remember thinking "I need to make this happen"

You know, for all the trouble of amassing all the controllers and building this dedicated Nintendo Shrine, the guy doesn't have that many games.
« Last Edit: July 18, 2012, 06:52:42 pm by jimfath »
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #38 on: July 19, 2012, 01:27:48 am »
First thing I thought of when I read your new box's name:

It's worth the listen.

Haha first thing I thought of as well...!

"Some drink from the fountain of knowledge; I only gargle."

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #39 on: July 19, 2012, 01:32:03 pm »
Ha... That's crazy. But he's right, 90's Russia was SUPER mob driven.

The name The Machine is temporary until the final CP design is decided upon. I hoping to cut it tomorrow but I'm auditioning a lot this week so I haven't had a lot of time. I like a 4 hour window to work in the garage. I also need to get more scrap wood. I heard back from Andy and confirmed that USB connection is fine on the encoders so one is being ordered.


Also, I found a picture of the first thing to wet my appetite as far as putting a cab in my house. It was in a issue of Nintendo Power. I think they were either giving it away or someone was showing the magazine what they had done.

Either way, I remember thinking "I need to make this happen"

You know, for all the trouble of amassing all the controllers and building this dedicated Nintendo Shrine, the guy doesn't have that many games.


There was a thread somewhere I just recently read with the kid who built that when he was like 14 or something. It was awesome.

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #40 on: September 11, 2012, 05:27:57 pm »
I managed to amass enough cardboard to build a big block of what the cabinet will look like. I made the dimensions roughly the same size and erred on the side of being slightly larger. I just needed to make sure that this cabinet won't overwhelm my small apartment infuriating my GF any further.



Cool! It fits throw the hallway out the door.


Old cabinet occupying same space

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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #41 on: September 11, 2012, 09:02:21 pm »
. . . . . . infuriating my GF any further.




Speaking of Infuriating your GF, the pic has her bra on the end table. 


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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #42 on: September 11, 2012, 09:06:11 pm »

Speaking of Infuriating your GF, the pic has her bra on the end table.

Oh... yeah... that's HER bra alright... I mean why would it be anyone elses. No one likes to build cabinets in lingerie right? You're talking crazy go nuts.

 
« Last Edit: September 11, 2012, 10:22:35 pm by jimfath »
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #43 on: October 08, 2012, 04:13:20 pm »
So I got more tokens this week. Probably enough to cover what I would like to do with the cut out artwork. I was sad to find that the bag of random tokens didn't include any from Aladdin's Castle which was a staple of mine growing up. Not as much as Fun N Games but enough to want to include it.





Hey look! Someone in my building is throwing out a perfectly good cardboard arcade machine.
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #44 on: January 20, 2014, 11:47:59 pm »
REBOOTED.

A friend of mine is now helping me with the wood working.

I have a bag full of Electric Ice buttons with leaf springs.

Noticed they now have something called Helio9 which sound brighter. Anyone have any insight?
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #45 on: January 29, 2014, 01:38:18 am »
I got a coin door this week. Not crazy about it. Since it's not going to function and is purely for aesthetic purposes I might keep looking around for another in my price range. I was outbid on a lovely williams pin coin door on Ebay. Blarg.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2014, 01:09:04 am by jimfath »
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #46 on: January 30, 2014, 12:16:49 am »
Ha... That's crazy. But he's right, 90's Russia was SUPER mob driven.

The name The Machine is temporary until the final CP design is decided upon. I hoping to cut it tomorrow but I'm auditioning a lot this week so I haven't had a lot of time. I like a 4 hour window to work in the garage. I also need to get more scrap wood. I heard back from Andy and confirmed that USB connection is fine on the encoders so one is being ordered.


Also, I found a picture of the first thing to wet my appetite as far as putting a cab in my house. It was in a issue of Nintendo Power. I think they were either giving it away or someone was showing the magazine what they had done.

Either way, I remember thinking "I need to make this happen"

You know, for all the trouble of amassing all the controllers and building this dedicated Nintendo Shrine, the guy doesn't have that many games.
Yeah that was a long time ago. It was published in a very early issue of Nintendo Power, so there were not very many NES games out at the time. I remember being very envious when I first read that issue. If I remember correctly this cab was recently sold on eBay.

[edit] http://www.willyliliana.com/NES%20Cabinet/NES%20Cabinet.htm
Nope I was wrong he still has it
« Last Edit: January 30, 2014, 12:20:36 am by DarakuTenshi »
My past arcade builds - Click to enlarge and get a closer look

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #47 on: February 01, 2014, 12:24:18 am »
Gotta a new coin door. Gonna sell the old one. Just have to swap out the 25˘ label.


Spinner on order. Seriously considering upgrading the lighting to the Helio9's from GGG if I could find a video of them in action.

« Last Edit: February 04, 2014, 01:47:18 am by jimfath »
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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #48 on: February 03, 2014, 09:46:06 pm »
Duplicate post... derp!
« Last Edit: February 07, 2014, 04:57:07 pm by jimfath »
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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #49 on: February 07, 2014, 05:08:30 pm »
Need to decide on how many buttons I'm going to have on the control panel.


Specifically for the front end. I'm playing around hyperspin but I'm also going to look at maximus. I have a strong enough chip so resources aren't a problem. I want it to be slick but functional.

After the months and months of tweaking, I'd like this cab to eventually be keyboard free.

How many buttons for navigation do you recommend. I've been looking over the CP data base and it varies signifigantly. 

I will be using Electric Ice buttons and GGG has some nice inserts.

P1,P2,P3,P4, Credit, Pause, Esc, Enter, GO,


Are these all the function buttons I'd need?

Some people have Arrow buttons. Some have nothing at all. (I'm assuming they use their keyboards)
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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #50 on: February 07, 2014, 06:17:39 pm »
For "arrow buttons", use P1 joystick.

Not sure if you'll need the Enter or Go buttons.

Many people configure the FE so P1 Button1 launches games.

Make your game/emulator list and install/configure your software so you know which admin buttons you want/need before you drill your control panel.


Scott
« Last Edit: February 07, 2014, 06:20:01 pm by PL1 »

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #51 on: February 07, 2014, 06:49:55 pm »
:cheers:
Good idea. I didn't even consider having the joys work that way. My previous machine had mame32 on it so I have no real experience with a slick front end. I was previously just using the track ball.

I suppose the EI buttons could light up indicating what buttons are active while in the front end as well.

Welp, I'm going to have to really pick and choose a front end now. My roms and emulators are in a bunch of different places.
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Re: New build... first build..."The Machine"?
« Reply #52 on: February 07, 2014, 10:02:22 pm »
Ha... That's crazy. But he's right, 90's Russia was SUPER mob driven.

The name The Machine is temporary until the final CP design is decided upon. I hoping to cut it tomorrow but I'm auditioning a lot this week so I haven't had a lot of time. I like a 4 hour window to work in the garage. I also need to get more scrap wood. I heard back from Andy and confirmed that USB connection is fine on the encoders so one is being ordered.


Also, I found a picture of the first thing to wet my appetite as far as putting a cab in my house. It was in a issue of Nintendo Power. I think they were either giving it away or someone was showing the magazine what they had done.

Either way, I remember thinking "I need to make this happen"

You know, for all the trouble of amassing all the controllers and building this dedicated Nintendo Shrine, the guy doesn't have that many games.

I remember filling out like 50 forms and sending them to win this thing.  I think it was some kind of contest. 
"Every arcade we restore preserves history that we will never experience again..."

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #53 on: February 14, 2014, 06:15:37 am »
Parts ordered

GGG
turbo twist 2
helio9 LED's
pushbutton graphic inserts
Nova Matrix lighting for Marquee
4-way leaf pro joystick

Still waiting for AimTrak's to be available again heard it's any day now.

Still on the hunt for
cooling fans for the cabinet (Not sure what kind to get 5v? Or just get 120v and plug it into the power strip?)
Marquee bracket
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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #54 on: February 17, 2014, 05:40:04 pm »
I'm thinking I should de-case my computer. I have this old Antec case that, while functional, is very large. I've been trying to see different solutions for mounting the mother board in a cabinet. Seems that many mounts are just DIY stand offs. I've seen a few others who have really nice acrylic test benches but they are really expensive.

Is anyone aware of any builds showing little more detail than a photo of mounting mother boards? 


I'm also looking at speakers right now. Some have dedicated amps and speakers while others just use just above base model pc speakers and bass units.
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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #55 on: February 28, 2014, 08:18:10 pm »
Got the last of the arcade specific CP parts in this week.   

Thanks Randy and Andy...you're dandy?

Can anyone recommend how to holster the Aimtrak guns to the side of the cab? Has anyone ever painted their Aimtrak guns? Single coat spray with clear coat afterward? Considering matching it to the T-molding which will not be blue, red or black. Possibly.





Looking forward to the frankenpanel comments.

 ;) ;) ;) ;)
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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #56 on: March 01, 2014, 02:47:02 am »
Wow.... 5 joysticks, a trigger stick, a trackball and 2 light guns!  That's a lot if hardware!  :o

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #57 on: March 01, 2014, 04:21:14 am »
Wow.... 5 joysticks, a trigger stick, a trackball and 2 light guns!  That's a lot if hardware!  :o
There's also a spinner in there.
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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #58 on: March 02, 2014, 08:41:56 pm »
my recent showcase cab thread has plans for aimtrak side-of-cab holsters.  my brother is making sets to order if you want a set. 

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #59 on: March 03, 2014, 12:12:20 pm »
My spinal tap cab has face-mounted holsters on either side of the coin door. It's a pretty slick system.

When I read the title of this cab I thought it was going to look like Scrooge McDuck's money tower for some reason. Anyways, for the coins, can't you just toss them into a jug of vinegar for a few hours? That's what we used to do with pennies for some reason.

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #60 on: March 03, 2014, 12:27:24 pm »
Anyways, for the coins, can't you just toss them into a jug of vinegar for a few hours? That's what we used to do with pennies for some reason.

The pickling action makes them taste better and extends shelf life so you can have them out of season I believe. 

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #61 on: March 03, 2014, 12:33:27 pm »
Anyways, for the coins, can't you just toss them into a jug of vinegar for a few hours? That's what we used to do with pennies for some reason.

The pickling action makes them taste better and extends shelf life so you can have them out of season I believe.

I find it's best to add a touch of dill. Helps with the metal taste.

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #62 on: March 04, 2014, 03:34:09 pm »
I live in Southern California so I'm using cilantro.

Has anyone ever cracked open the ball top on a GGG Leaf Pro? I'd like to know what the internal shaft is composed of.
I want to replace the ball top with something in a different color and texture. If it's a straight shaft then I hopeto use epoxy and permanently mount a different ball top.

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #63 on: March 04, 2014, 04:09:19 pm »
I live in Southern California so I'm using cilantro.

Has anyone ever cracked open the ball top on a GGG Leaf Pro? I'd like to know what the internal shaft is composed of.
I want to replace the ball top with something in a different color and texture. If it's a straight shaft then I hopeto use epoxy and permanently mount a different ball top.



I have.  It's a ---smurfing--- hassle.  Better to replace the whole stick.  I built a replacement stick out of a long bolt, only thing is you need a shaft cover, I was going with a colored one so it didn't matter but you can find some chromed pipe the right size in plumbing supply and cut a sleeve. 

IIRC the top is reverse beveled metal and that ball is ontop of another ball which is ontop of some adamantium.  ---smurfing--- hassle. 

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #64 on: March 04, 2014, 04:59:01 pm »
 ::)

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #65 on: March 05, 2014, 11:31:12 pm »
I live in Southern California so I'm using cilantro.

Has anyone ever cracked open the ball top on a GGG Leaf Pro? I'd like to know what the internal shaft is composed of.
I want to replace the ball top with something in a different color and texture. If it's a straight shaft then I hopeto use epoxy and permanently mount a different ball top.



I have.  It's a ---smurfing--- hassle.  Better to replace the whole stick.  I built a replacement stick out of a long bolt, only thing is you need a shaft cover, I was going with a colored one so it didn't matter but you can find some chromed pipe the right size in plumbing supply and cut a sleeve. 

IIRC the top is reverse beveled metal and that ball is ontop of another ball which is ontop of some adamantium.  ---smurfing--- hassle.
Hmmmm... I'm curious about what's in there now. I might break one and attempt to replace it. I like the leaf feel vs the old micro's I had on my last cab. Randy informed me that they kept costs lower by not making it swappable but they might change that later on. A buddy of mine has access to a machine shop. Or he used to. I'm going to see if he can reproduce the joy shaft with a threaded top that would accept the hard candy ball tops I'm interested in.
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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #66 on: March 27, 2014, 01:18:17 am »
No luck at the machine shop.

Started playing around with button layouts on some study cardboard. Too cramped. Probably going to make the CP a little wider.

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #67 on: February 28, 2016, 01:19:57 am »
So I finally got around to booking some time to work on this cab I've been stop starting forever.  :banghead:. I found a local workshop in LA that fit the bill. It's been a while since I cut wood and worked with these kinds of tools so today was all about cutting and seeing if I could fumble my way around with simple stuff. I got some cheap ply and started throwing together what I thought would be the CP. It's been a slow go. My measurements were on point but I caught a LOT of mistakes before I made them. It's only a matter of time before I mess up irrevocably. I'm looking at this as practice on ply. I had my old layout that I cut into cardboard and I used that as a rough estimate of what I wanted to do. I didn't get very far. It was slow going and I had to get some instructions on some of the tools I've never used in the woodshop.






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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #68 on: March 01, 2016, 11:48:11 pm »
So, I started getting into the CP more and realized that it's not going to be wide enough. I started laying everything out and I found that there wasn't enough room for resting hands as you play. I'm going to add an additional 5 inches. The depth is OK but I might not like that either.  So the board is basically scrap. Which is fine because I figured I wouldn't get it right out of the gate.



SO, I went ahead and drilled the holes for the buttons anyway but I center balanced everything. So the buttons would be the proper distance from the left and the right sides and I'd eventually run out of room in the middle. As you can see, the buttons on P1 ended up overlapping with the trackball housing. Next I cut the board right down the middle. This way I use it as a rough template on the longer board. I'm going to practice with the router on the board and see if I can set up a jig to cut out the joy mounts next.





The wood was splintering pretty badly. I was using fostner bits. next time I don't go all the way though and flip the board over. I think that will help???





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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #69 on: March 02, 2016, 12:31:55 am »
Put a piece of scrap board under your control panel when you drill with the forstner bit. That will prevent splintering and blowouts.
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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #70 on: March 03, 2016, 02:02:50 pm »
Put a piece of scrap board under your control panel when you drill with the forstner bit. That will prevent splintering and blowouts.


This. 


If you don't have scrap wood to spare, you can technically do the thing where you drill partway on one side, and then flip it.  Just make sure you drill a small pilot hole for the center of each hole.  That way, you stand half a chance of the hole being straight and not zig-zagging its way through the wood.  Truthfully, I recommend drilling the pilot holes, regardless of the method you use.

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #71 on: March 03, 2016, 03:20:32 pm »
Yes, I had a smooth piece of scrap mdf underneath. Still blew out badly. I tried faster and slower speeds and cranking. Didn't have much luck. I'll be trying again today.
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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #72 on: March 05, 2016, 12:03:33 am »
I didn't have a lot of time so I worked on using the router. I literally haven't handled one since shop class. Which was also the time I broke it. (Took WAY to big a cut). So, after some cutting of scrap with a plunge router, I  worked on creating a router jig. I saw a sticky on how to do this so I started squaring wood and tried to make one. Seemed pretty easy. I'm going to be back there tomorrow to glue them together. I might make one for the track ball, flight stick and ultra stick as well. In cutting on MDF I realized that I hate the dust it makes. SO much dust. I was considering an MDF CP top as it seemed like it would be more sculptable but hand cutting it was a mess.

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #73 on: February 15, 2018, 02:06:55 am »
Sooooooo after some trial and error and more and more error, I officially outsourced the lion's share of cutting and building this cabinet. My lines were never straight enough to meet the design I planned out and it started getting expensive constantly starting over. In the end, I would have been more pissed at the sub par finished project than I am that I can't build the damn thing myself. Oh well.  :-\

I found a local guy in LA that does nothing but custom cabs and sent him my pitch. He said he only takes on a few projects he's in interested in building. He liked the concept and has been working on it for a few months off and on. I'll post more pics as i get them.

I still don't have a name for this thing yet either. Coin Arc?








« Last Edit: March 06, 2018, 01:26:10 am by jimfath »
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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art"
« Reply #74 on: February 15, 2018, 09:26:57 am »
LOL...I clicked and saw the original post was from 2011 andI thought to myself, who brought this thread back to life?  Then I got to the end and was amazed....it looks awesome! Kudos to you for sticking with it!  I love the coin art on the sides!  :applaud:

How bout Arcoin?

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art" (Updated 2018)
« Reply #75 on: February 15, 2018, 04:10:37 pm »
 :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: Arcoin > Arcoinoid, > Arcoinaid, > Arcoinade,   :laugh2:

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Re: New build... first build..."Coin Art" (Updated 2018)
« Reply #76 on: March 04, 2018, 12:53:47 am »
Coming along. Electric Ice2 buttons and large track ball Working out the kinks with wiring.


The tokens behind the space invader will be replaced with 90's quarters. He didn't have them when he was putting them together.



Anyone know if Xin Mo controllers play nice with LED wiz?


Also trying to figure out the power posts for the AIMtrack gun with recoil.


Also found a really cool GoT cabinet the guy was working on. He's experimenting with making plywood swords at the moment.
« Last Edit: March 04, 2018, 01:05:26 am by jimfath »
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Re: &quot;Coin Art&quot; (Updated 2018)
« Reply #77 on: March 04, 2018, 09:26:08 am »
Really like the way thats shaping up!
Very unique.

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2018)
« Reply #78 on: April 17, 2018, 01:48:38 pm »
Help with LED WIZ
So all the construction is done but we are running into issues with wiring. Can't seem to get it to work. Here's an email I got from the guy putting it together

"Hello Jim...about your arcade I been struggling very much with the led wiz and can't figure it out. I have tried so many options but nothing seems to work 100%, I got the buttons to light up with a version of mame called power mame and the lights started to work when I used with ledblinky but not for everything. The software from led wiz won't work with power mame which means I can not load a lot of games that other versions of mame does, like all the street fighters they do not run on this version and then on the other systems like Nintendo and segas can't get them to work is a bit frustrating for me because normally is easy for me to learn something fast but this is very confusing and lacking on support and tutorials most of them are for pinball machines. Is there any info, doc, or tutorials on setting up LED wiz on multi platforms arcade cabs?"
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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2018)
« Reply #79 on: April 18, 2018, 01:11:06 pm »
Interesting color scheme.  Damn that's shiny!  Sorry, but I use Ultimarc and LEDBlinky.  Not sure about the Wiz.

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2018)
« Reply #80 on: April 19, 2018, 03:22:59 pm »
LED Blinky should work with the LED Wiz and will probably assist you massively in setting everything up.  Ideally you want a front end that LED Blinky will easily work in conjunction with along with relevant emulators for various systems.  Basically from here on in it is down to software configuration and that is going to involve a lot of trial/error and Much Google-fu.


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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2018)
« Reply #81 on: June 30, 2018, 05:32:50 pm »
So the guy building it wasn't able to get the lights working at all. He could not figure out LED Blinky and his brand of maximus. He then had some other projects come up so we both decided that it would be best if he just delivered the cabinet to me without it completely working. It's just sitting in my kitchen.


He's got it running maximus but the MAME emulator doesn't work, Daphne doesn't work well, and the cabinet still needs to be wired for lighting and the marquee.
I'm bummed but the machine closer than ever at the same time.

I'm sort of at a cross road. I'm considering blowing up the HDD and trying to run hyperspin or reinstall a better version of Maximus perhaps.  But I'm at a loss for time to dedicate to what it would probably take to do something like that. I've sent out feelers to people that sell HDD's on ebay preloaded with hyperspin to see if they are able to work on the pc. There are a lot in SO CAL so i'm going to try my luck there.

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2018)
« Reply #82 on: June 30, 2018, 08:04:46 pm »
Have you considered a pi?

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2018)
« Reply #83 on: June 30, 2018, 09:44:17 pm »
Just watch a youtube video or two and install Hyperspin yourself.  Hell, if I can do it, anyone can!

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2018)
« Reply #84 on: June 30, 2018, 09:50:37 pm »
Just watch a youtube video or two and install Hyperspin yourself.  Hell, if I can do it, anyone can!

+1.  Honestly, YouTube can teach you anything if you are willing to put in the time.

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Re: &quot;Coin Art&quot; (Updated 2018)
« Reply #85 on: June 30, 2018, 10:18:43 pm »
Just watch a youtube video or two and install Hyperspin yourself.  Hell, if I can do it, anyone can!

+1.  Honestly, YouTube can teach you anything if you are willing to put in the time.
True dat!  I did my complete Hyperspin build all from Simple Austin's videos and the Hyperspin forums.

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2019)
« Reply #86 on: February 23, 2019, 09:05:58 pm »
UPDATE: 2019
I've finished putting the computer together. I polled some people on reddit r/cade/ and the prevailing thought was that I should start fixing the wiring first. So, naturally, I worked on the computer.  ;)

I updated the computer from Maximus to hyperspin. Was a bit of a learning curve but I have it as playable as I can get it short of integrating LED wiz and mapping the controllers on every platform. I put the computer in and played around on the existing control deck. I figure the remaining changes to the computer will be the last part once all the other things are done on the cabinet.


This week I had some time to started attacking the tasks on upgrading the cabinet.

Goals:
Sand and laminate (glossy, matte, or satin finish?)
Install screw in nuts in the CP with a close hinge to allow it to open easier.
install hinge on the back. Possibly piano hinge. Or something easily accessible
possibly put handle on back, wheels on rear   
Possibly more design elements into side art area
install fans in the top and air vents in bottom (air filter?)
replace the gold T-molding with silver t-molding
replace the gun hoses and the dowel rod holsters
install an LCD marquee (glass cover?)
Install lighting elements in the side art and in the CP
Rewire CP, quiet the buttons and

Down the road: redo the CP completely.


The paint job has always bugged me. It's spotty in some places and very rough. I going to cover the outside with laminate black laminate. My old CRT cabinet had matte finished black laminate. Not sure if I should get glossy or matte. Maybe glossy would go nice with the chrome joys? Maybe satin?

I removed one piece from the top where the USB fans will be installed. I sanded the piece and can already tell the wood was scrap as it had previous cuts and holes that had been painted over. (nice)



Previously there were black rubber garden hoses used for conduit for the AIM track guns. The hoses were rigid and would sometimes push the guns out of the dowel rod they were perched on if they were turned the wrong way. 
I got official holsters from HAPP to properly hold the guns to replace the dowels and I'm going to use old pay phone handset tubing as the conduit.(I work in telecom and found some randomly) The USB cable fits with a little give allowing it to move nicely


« Last Edit: February 23, 2019, 09:11:54 pm by jimfath »
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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2019)
« Reply #87 on: March 02, 2019, 04:22:39 pm »
Starting to take more pieces off and sand them. Still looking where to buy glossy cabinet laminate. Home Depot says they have it but only online and it's not available till April. I'm still looking around



For this back piece any advise on making it a door? Piano hinge and a barrel lock?


The tokens started falling off. It's fine, I have to redo all this when I laminate it. I might put lights on these things. There was a lot more potential with this side art than was done.

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2019)
« Reply #88 on: March 02, 2019, 07:42:09 pm »
Starting to take more pieces off and sand them. Still looking where to buy glossy cabinet laminate. Home Depot says they have it but only online and it's not available till April. I'm still looking around

I've had Home Depot specially order laminate before.  As I recall they didn't charge shipping but it was a few years ago.  If you have a ReStore near you might check it out.  I've picked up laminate cheap there but their inventory is very hit and miss.


For this back piece any advise on making it a door? Piano hinge and a barrel lock?

You could make it a removable door (no hinge) like most old games had. 




That looks fantastic!  I love how that turned out.

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Re: &quot;Coin Art&quot; (Updated 2019)
« Reply #89 on: March 03, 2019, 07:49:04 am »
Starting to take more pieces off and sand them. Still looking where to buy glossy cabinet laminate.

I ordered from this place and it has a ton of options.  Ended up being cheaper than Home Depot, although I did order a fair amount.

https://www.cabinetparts.com/c/countertop-laminate-products


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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2019)
« Reply #90 on: March 04, 2019, 07:31:32 pm »
Thanks for all the feed back, gents.
I have a sheet of glossy black laminate en-route. Should be here by Saturday. I hope to start joining laminate the smaller pieces.

Question about laminate and contact adhesive. Is there a brand people recommend and how well does it cover? I see it sold in pints and gallons. I don't want to buy too much but I also don't want to run out in-process. I'm laminating the entire cabinet. It's 29" wide and about 6' tall. After watching a couple of videos I think I want to double apply each side and maybe one coat for all the smaller pieces.

Also, has anyone ever used a dremmel to trim laminate? I don't have a router but do have a dremmel. I know it would take a lot longer and that's ok so long as it's clean. I did find a $20 flush bit that is 1/8 for dremmels. If it is horrible I don't mind going out and getting a used router somewhere. I just happened to have a dremmel is all.


I had time to cut the holes and for the exhaust fans. With the addition of a LCD marquee, I feel like it's going to get hot at the top. I'll add intake vents on the bottom with possibly a simple filter of some sort. Probably foam so I can wash and put it back.


Rented space at a local woodworking place here in LA called "Community Woodshop" where I plan on doing a lot of the cutting for these updates. Though I'll have to trim the arcade cab at home because I'm not dragging that out there just to trim it.
To get my "sea legs" with woodworking, I built a chair mat. I made many mistakes and it took a lot longer than it should have but it came out ok and i feel like I am getting into the right headspace to make better decisions with some of the cutting and planning.





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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2019)
« Reply #91 on: March 26, 2019, 06:37:12 pm »
So I had some more time this week. One sheet of laminate came in and I started cutting it up into small pieces.



I plan on pulling pieces off the cabinet, sanding them down, putting them back in and securing them through the side instead of though the pieces themselves into the small 1x1's. I'll connect the sides with a small framing piece to keep the structure strong. This doesn't make sense as I'm typing it. I'll take pictures when i get there.




The guy made the back strange and, after sanding some of the pieces, I'm convinced he did so because he was reusing scrap pieces.
I found bondo and some screw holes on two of the boards.
The back has (3) pieces. There is a lower kick plate area, a larger middle area, and very thin top part where he also jig sawed a small hole and hot glued the TV controls onto. The controls have NEVER worked. I think some of the glue either got on to PCB and possibly ruined connections. I'm not sure. I've been limited to using a universal remote to turn it off and on.
I cut out a large piece to cover for the two and will laminate it. I'll try to rescue the old TV controls but I'm doubtful it will work.
Eventually this larger piece will also have a latch on it to serve as the point of entry. I'll use maybe a chrome barrel lock or handle latch.




New piece is underneath. It's sticking out but it's the same size.

I removed the mechs off the back of the coin door. Any recommendations on how to light it and secure the plastic. I have seen a few options.




I got both fans installed in the angled piece in the back. The contact adhesive is ordered and I'll hopefully get that by this week.
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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2019)
« Reply #92 on: May 09, 2019, 04:49:08 am »
So I've been plugging along. I have laminated about 30-40% of the total cabinet so far. Mostly just small pieces as I get used to how the laminating process works.  I ended up replacing several pieces with new boards as a few were shoddy scrap pieces I found cut outs and bondo in.

I'll have more pictures after this weekend, I hope. I am about raise the floor and put it on casters.

Had a ? about how people mount speakers. I tried to create a poll but I could not attach a picture so it's not really clear. Basically, where do peple like to put the speakers? More recessed or sticking out. I could not find any real discussion of this only people showing both ways.

So what do you think?

or

bear in mind that THIS way almost doubles the size of the grill profile.

I'm probably going to stick to having it sit behind the wood and put in a small grill that's flush. These are pretty huge speakers and I like the idea of having them recessed so they're not hanging down in your face as you look at the monitor. The bare wood will be covered with laminate strips once the speaker is installed behind.

Other progress that I have pics of

I removed metal stands


picked these 3" wheels. 2 swivel, 2 fixed. With the fix going to be in the Front


Had to replace the bottom piece with 3/4" plywood. It was 1/4" scrap plywood wood and I was worried about the pressure cracking the wood especially if it's going to be rolled from time to time and it was pretty beat up as is. Should I add another 1/2" board over laying directly over the bolts to make it stronger? Side to side? Is that overkill?


I hope to put this thing on this Sunday. It will be rather involved as it's integral to the build. The wife likes that she'll be able to clean behind it easier. (Her words not mine)


I started pulling all the old hardware from the CP. I'm on the fence about using this going forward. I might replace the CP but I'm shelving that for now.


Keeping with the Silver and Black I painted the return air vent and the blower fan vents chrome.

Least you think I'm a Raiders fan, I also made this Browns homage


I think it will be a beer opener for my dad. In looking at redoing some of the side art, I wanted to mess around with a scroll saw.
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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2019)
« Reply #93 on: May 30, 2019, 09:10:09 pm »
Well getting the wheels on a was a comedy of errors

First attempt: The original board was too thin. Cracked putting the wheels on it.

2nd attempt: The new board I cut was too short and I had to start over

3rd attempt: was the right size and I had to find a creative way to raise the floor using scrap pieces of ply that I could rest it on while I screwed down all the pieces.







The wheels make the cabinet rock quite a bit so, toward the end of this revision, I'll make a small, low profile rail for each side to rest on. Wheels make this WAY easier to move so the effort was worth it.

Now to replace the front kick plate. It was cut improperly, it's not square and the coin door hole was also cut too large so it keeps falling out. I'll be putting a sub and kick port on the front as well as laminating it.
 

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2019)
« Reply #94 on: May 31, 2019, 01:11:16 pm »
Wow, coming along! I've never worked with laminate, and kind of dread getting to the painting stage. Guess I'll see when I get there.

I thought usually the fixed wheels go on the back of the cab? So you can rock it a bit at the front, and then pull out? Been a long time since I made my cab though. This time around I'm going the fixed wheels on back/leg levelers approach. Mainly for the same reason you mentioned, wobble. My first cab was pretty solid until I attached wheels, and then it had more wobble than I liked. It probably helps to get the wheels as close to the outer edges as possible, to minimize the tipping effect.

The sides are really cool, with the two characters in coins. I am curious what that would like lit up. The overall black/chrome/gold colors are pretty nice.

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2019)
« Reply #95 on: June 03, 2019, 03:52:35 am »
Thanks. So far the laminate process has been headache free.

I just ordered two sheets of laminate for the sides. I hope to finish the remaining while that's shipping. This week I want to finish the rear door by installing a paddle latch and laminating it.
I believe I have enough remaining laminate material to make strips for some of the exposed edges. I worked out a way to cut the formica on a table saw without chipping by dropping down the saw blade and laying the formic underneath scrap plywood.


For laminating I used


And a small 3" roller


I used a small roller I got off ebay to push adhere the formica and force out any air.


I found a cheap paddle latch on ebay. I'll use that to open the back.. (I hope)



« Last Edit: December 03, 2019, 07:33:56 pm by jimfath »
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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2019)
« Reply #96 on: June 03, 2019, 12:54:27 pm »
Thanks for the laminate info! I had to look up paddle latches. I had seen them before in person, but didn't know that's what they are called. Great call for access doors.

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2019)
« Reply #97 on: December 03, 2019, 06:27:18 pm »
I've been working on this but didn't have time to upload a lot of pictures. More is coming. I'm making progress.

I installed a new back piece with the paddle latch. I screwed up and made too big a cut with the router but I was able to save it with a solid wood backing piece of scrap and shoring up the lip with glue and laminate.














I have started using the kreg jig to join the pieces.


I've also began redoing the CP. Increased size to allow a little more room


I've replaced the coin door and installed a sub on it.  It's already laminated though i forgot to take a picture.

« Last Edit: December 03, 2019, 06:34:26 pm by jimfath »
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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2019)
« Reply #98 on: December 06, 2019, 02:21:18 pm »
Holy crap did I hate figuring out how to make little laminate strips for the all the holes.



I popped the door and pulled the plastic off to see the finish vs the painted finish. I was a little nervous if wasn't that much of an improvement. The photo doesn't do it justice but the shine and gloss was exactly what I was looking for. The door and lines are uneven. i have some adjustments to make it more square.



I also recently started to revise the CP (I forgot to include this start up pic)
« Last Edit: December 06, 2019, 02:34:30 pm by jimfath »
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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2019)
« Reply #99 on: July 29, 2020, 06:25:14 pm »
I can finally leave the house again so i blew the dust of this old project and inched it along.

Even with the lock's engaged, the wheels were just too loose so I put in adjustable feet to lift the wheel off the ground. I drilled holes so I can bring up the feet when I want them to roll the cabinet. I might have to change out the hard plastic feet covers with rubber, or add rubber to them to add more grip. That will come later.



I put speaker grates in and installed the speakers with fasteners.

.



I've also started working on an all-in one traveling CP that I can take to friends houses. It will have (2) additional controllers for 4 player games and consoles if somebody wants to play them. Sort of beyond my skills but I have time and some spart wood and parts so I thought I'd go for it. 

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2020)
« Reply #100 on: September 26, 2020, 06:58:19 pm »
I finally had time to sand and laminate the sides. I also had to strategically plan when I did this because there's old lady in my condo complex that complains whenever I do any kind of wood work or auto motive work.


I also cut out the area below the old control panel and am going to turn it into a drawer with console controls in it.






I plan on using foam and Dremel out the control shapes so they sit in there like a bunch of John Wick weapons. 


While they are in there, they'll be connected via usb and I'm wondering if I should have them permanently connected to a usb hub that has switches so you can enable each controller on demand or should they all just be "on" all the time if connected in a standard hub. I've heard the more devices actively connected the messier the connection. my old cabinet had 4 N64, 2snes, and 2 nes set up like this and I never noticed any issues but maybe I'm pushing it here. I feel like I might be taking too big a swing with all these console add-on's but I really want to push Frankenpanel to the next level.


I also finished portable arcade panels. I made them for the groomsman in my wedding. One had drawers out the back to fit a Logitech usb controller. I changed gears and made the others have smaller drawers on the side for a wired 8Bitdo SF30.




Too keep this from getting too big and heavy, I put the all the gear inside in a tight formation with two fans to make sure the PI didn't over heat.


« Last Edit: September 26, 2020, 07:16:56 pm by jimfath »
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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2020)
« Reply #101 on: December 12, 2020, 10:00:50 pm »
I have finished the control panel but am currently struggling mightily with adding plexi to the top. I used store bought plexti and it was a nightmare. It threw so much debris and that debris ended up scratching the plexi in several places. Even with a vacuum pulling the routed bits of plexi debris, it still scratched it up to oblivion.

 I've ordered some polycarbonite laminate to see if that will make it easier. The biggest hurdle was cutting the trackball around the metal housing. I will try again with a fresh piece and I THINK I'll try to start with the track ball part first instead of last.

I've also finished the base of the portable panel. I will wrap the bottom with speaker fabric and hopefully get it finished soon.



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« Reply #102 on: December 14, 2020, 02:07:57 pm »
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« Last Edit: March 19, 2021, 02:08:42 am by ChanceKJ »

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2020)
« Reply #103 on: December 14, 2020, 02:19:11 pm »
You really should use plexi in that application. Plexi (acrylic) is more scratch resistant. Lexan (polycarbonate) is more impact resistant, but the plastic isn't your biggest problem if you are worried about impact resistance.

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« Reply #104 on: December 14, 2020, 02:28:47 pm »
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« Last Edit: March 19, 2021, 02:08:17 am by ChanceKJ »

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2020)
« Reply #105 on: December 14, 2020, 02:51:35 pm »
I wasn't aware the OP was putting his MAME machine on location.

I use acrylic all of the time. I have never had it shatter. Then again I just use my stuff at home.


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« Reply #106 on: December 14, 2020, 03:05:34 pm »
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« Last Edit: March 19, 2021, 02:08:07 am by ChanceKJ »

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2020)
« Reply #107 on: December 14, 2020, 05:53:28 pm »
You really should use plexi in that application. Plexi (acrylic) is more scratch resistant. Lexan (polycarbonate) is more impact resistant, but the plastic isn't your biggest problem if you are worried about impact resistance.

^this right here.

Over time with constant play, Lexan will get scratched up. That's a guarantee. It's not guaranteed that some drunk will come along and pound on your panel.

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« Reply #108 on: December 14, 2020, 06:09:02 pm »
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« Last Edit: March 19, 2021, 02:07:47 am by ChanceKJ »

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2020)
« Reply #109 on: December 14, 2020, 08:14:31 pm »
And you’re reporting posts.... from the internet.... that hurt your feelings.

 :tool:

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« Reply #110 on: December 14, 2020, 08:44:27 pm »
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« Last Edit: March 19, 2021, 02:07:11 am by ChanceKJ »

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Re: "Coin Art" (Updated 2020)
« Reply #111 on: December 14, 2020, 09:30:05 pm »
Regardless lol,  What I'm saying is, even though it was available and used in the arcade industry, Plexi was NOT used for this application. Like Ever.  I've pulled overlays made of lexan off control panels from the early 90's and they are still in decent/useable shape. lol.   Aside from the fact that jimfath already tried Plexi and it didn't work, who are we to argue with the dozens  of manufactures of hundreds of thousands of cabinets, made of hundreds of game titles, over decades?   

haha you're arguing over plastic.   ...on the internet.
Who's arguing? I'm backing up the points that were made by MikeA.

If anything you're the one arguing some industry "facts" you don't have any data to back-up. One or the other, Plexi and Lexan were both used for these applications. Don't get it twisted.

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« Reply #112 on: February 18, 2021, 08:40:01 pm »
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« Last Edit: March 22, 2021, 09:28:45 pm by jimfath »
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