Main > Project Announcements
Long time reader, first time builder: MAME Slim Cab
ambush:
--- Quote from: Seith on September 28, 2012, 01:30:09 pm ---You mentioned you couldn't move the trackball down due to the box constraints, but now that you have that CP attached to the piano hinge and opened, it looks like you have considerable space below it that you could have moved it down:
I realize it's too late now, but that was one of the things this board caught me on when I came close to the point where I was going to be cutting my CP: Trackballs should go as low as you can get them, to maximize the space your hand has to travel, and to minimize chances of banging your fingers on the glass.
Otherwise, this project is looking great!
--- End quote ---
@Seith thanks for the feedback.
I screwed up on two things:
1- The CP overhangs the CP box on the lower (front) part. That means that the trackball can't be too low because of that box front panel.
2- I put $0.25 coin buttons on the front, so they need room as well. That added an extra couple of inches.
I am definitely worried about banging fingers. But since I designed this CP as removable, I may finish this one and then build another one if I don't like it.
ambush:
--- Quote from: Hockeyboy on September 28, 2012, 01:55:27 am ---ambush -- LOVING the updates!! Also, thanks for the response to my earlier questions.
I love the shape your cab has taken -- I still want to do something VERY similar, in fact, I want to do the same thing as you did, except that I want to stain mine instead of black paint, much like Knievel's Woody cab. My only snag right now is my wife is saying we just don't have a good room in the house to plop something like this into -- she's suggesting I could keep it in the garage. :angry: Our garage is actually completely finished on all the walls because it was the builder's model home but I just hate the idea of having to play my games out there. If I do decide to stay in the garage, I would definitely consider painting it black vs staining.
btw...you wouldn't happen to have dimensions/plans, would you? ;)
--- End quote ---
@Hockeyboy thanks!
I designed this one specifically so it would fit in a room rather than being exiled. It is really slim. I'm attaching my 3D Sketchup file. There is a layer called "Cut List" which has all of the pieces you need to cut laid out on plywood pieces. Or you can show/hide each individual layer and use the tape measurer to figure out your measurements. http://www.megafileupload.com/en/file/370462/Ambush-Slim-Arcade-Cab-2012-skp.html
ambush:
--- Quote from: Noshbomb on September 28, 2012, 03:42:34 am ---Looks really nice!
--- End quote ---
Thanks @Noshbomb !
Scott87z:
Ambush, like you I am a long time reader and just finalizing my plans before starting. Your cab looks great. What amp did you finally go with to power your 4x6 speakers and how did that work out for you? I am still trying to decide between a computer 2.1 speaker set or go the car speaker route. Thanks!
ambush:
New Update! The arcade cab construction is complete and playable!
[Photos from October - November 2012]
In this update, I complete the construction of the cabinet, including all plexiglass cutting and assembly. I attach the speakers, LEDs, monitor and computer. I wire up the control panel and am able to play the first games.
Problems: I can't get the trackball working. Need some electrical help! The speakers are buzzing. Don't know why.
Open items: I still need to attach the spinner and the admin buttons. AND I need to get some help on artwork!
Plexiglass
I purchased samples of acrylic ("plexiglass") and Lexan ("polycarbonate"). Ultimately I decided to go with acrylic. Acrylic was easier to cut, less likely to scratch, and does not yellow over time. http://www.hydrosight.com/technology/polycarbonate_vs_acrylic.php
I went to Lowe's and had them cut the plexiglass to the proper rectangular sizes for the marquee, monitor bezel, and control panel. Then I went to work on the control panel.
Here is a test of a pushbutton.
And here is the test of the Lexan (left) and Plexi (right).
Now I was ready to cut the main control panel plexi. The first thing I did was align all of the holes.
Here is the control panel with the trackball.
To align everything, I turned the control panel upside down and clamped it to the plexi. I had the plexi sandwiched between the CP and another board so that I would drill through the other board.
To cut the pushbutton holes, I needed a 1 1/8" bit. I originally tried a spade bit but that didn't work, so I purchased this hole cutting bit which worked great.
All of the holes are done.
The plexi melts as you cut it and leaves some plastic on the hole. Just use your fingernail to break that off.
Here is my trackball test cut using a 3" hole saw.
It fit, but the edges were a little rough.
The final cut was much smoother.
Fits perfectly
I would end up sanding the inside of the trackball hole with 250 grit sanding block just to smooth it out a bit more.
Speakers
I installed the car audio speakers. They fit perfectly.
Connected the amplifier.
Mounted the amplifier in the cabinet.
Marquee
For the marquee, I used two pieces of plexi and I plan to sandwich an art printout between them. To mount the marquee plexi, I picked up a plastic wall corner protector from the hardware store and cut it with a hacksaw.
Monitor bezel
For the monitor bezel, I first drilled holes into the plexi in the corners where the screws would go, then attached the bezel to the cabinet using black screws with neoprene washers.
LEDs
I purchased NovaMatrix LEDs from GroovyGameGear. They connect to 12v power which can come from your computer or a power adapter.
I needed the LEDs to face forward, so I added a 2x2 beam inside the cabinet where I would mount them.
I mounted aluminum foil with a staple gun to reflect light behind the marquee.
I also left the protective film on one piece of plexiglass to make the light more diffuse. Overall happy with this.
Finishing the Control Panel
First I had to cut the angled front of the plexi. I decided to use a utility knife to score and snap.
The result was very good. One minor nick. I then sanded all of the edges and drilled holes for the mounting screws.
I attached all of the buttons and the mounting screws.
Here is the inside. The control panel top is attached with a piano hinge.
Wiring
Now it was time to wire it up. At first I tried to use cat5 cables. That failed. I ended up using single lines for each connection.
Playing the arcade!
I was super excited to connect it all up and be able to play some games!
Mortal Kombat 2
Pac-Man
And my son loves Bubble Bobble
Now I really want to play Golden Tee, but my trackball is not working!
Please help me with open issues!
* Trackball - I purchased the GroovyGameGear 3" Trackball (no solder version). I connect the 3 inputs to the OptiWiz board and the USB cable, but nothing happens. I see there are two 5v connections, but I don't know what to connect there??
* LEDs - I purchased the NovaMatrix LEDs from GroovyGameGear. I attached them to my PC using the molex connector and the motherboard blew. I had to use a hardware reset of the CMOS to get it back up and running. I'm wondering if I had loose wires that shorted. What do you do with the additional molex wires?
* Speakers buzzing - I think I must have electrical current non-grounded and running around causing speaker buzzing.
* Artwork - I'm looking to contract someone to help me with artwork for the marquee, control panel and sideart.
Thanks!
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version