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Stargate Mini project

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taylormadelv:
So the 15" CGA monitor I will be using is from this Taito "Gameroom Classics" Bartop cabinet, sans PCB, of course. This monitor is basically brand new and displayed Stargate perfectly. Since it was crammed in that tiny bartop, the monitor has no frame and was extremely difficult to pry out of that tiny cabinet. I did not want to disconnect some of the tiny, tiny wires that connect the jamma harness and the monitor, so I decided to work around the harness that came in the bartop. A bit messy and not the "correct" way of doing things but this will get the job done. I used a monitor frame from a G07-FB0 that I broke the yoke on and it fits perfectly! Then I had to figure out a way to mount the monitor in the cabinet and I really do not want to cut a big piece of plywood and cut a hole, so I took a shortcut. I carefully measured the slots on the inside of the cabinet where the wood is suppposed to slide in, cut my wood and mounted it to the monitor frame. As you can see, the harness is still there!
The contrast ratio of a real, CGA arcade monitor is much higher than VGA CRT's I have encountered. Stargate has some really cool strobing effects in the attract mode, mame plays Stargate perfectly but does not DISPLAY prefectly...years of experinece on this one...

taylormadelv:
I take my time with bondo/paint, as you can see. It's worth going slow, just pays off in the end. The above pics attempt to show how glossy and shiny I got the cab to be just before I stencil it. I did at least 4 passes of bondo(woodfiller)/primer/paint on the front. Then I used semi gloss red and did not like the finish. So I bought a can of high gloss "Duke Red" and I really like the finish. I use foam rollers for a smoooooth finish. I let this latex paint dry for a few days to harden up before I use my stencils...


I have not taken pics yet but I wil be using translucent leaf switch buttons and I have ordered all my led's from www.nicemite.com. A very clever solution for lighting leaf switch buttons, which is extremely difficult. Since I am dealing with a tiny control panel, I really need these....
Stay tuned!

Yvan256:

--- Quote from: taylormadelv on October 15, 2011, 12:28:19 pm ---Williams mini cabinets are the thinnest I have ever worked on. The cab is only 18.5" wide, not certain about height and depth but you can see she's pretty small.
--- End quote ---

Would it be possible to get the other dimensions? If it's only 18.5" wide I'm wondering about height and depth!  :dizzy:

taylormadelv:

--- Quote from: Yvan256 on October 15, 2011, 06:03:54 pm ---Would it be possible to get the other dimensions? If it's only 18.5" wide I'm wondering about height and depth!  :dizzy:

--- End quote ---

Just for you buddy! She's 61" tall from bottom to top of marquee. 56" from bottom to top of back of cabinet and 24" deep from control panel to back door.

taylormadelv:
I must say that this particular little cabinet has been more work than any other cabinet I have ever worked on! Every little detail is always more work than expected on this one.
For instance, the T-Moulding on the Williams mini is very detailed and has curves in almost every spot in the the length of the t-moulding, making this a very detailed job. A full sized cab usually takes me about an hour, this took me 2 hours!
I am posting a few shots of the stencils as they went on. Again, very advanced stuff here. This was my first stencil job and I am glad I have done lots of side art installations before I tried this. Doing stencils is almost like doing painting/side art TIMES 4! !) Paint and sand 2) apply stencil(s) 3) paint stencil(s) 4) Remove stencil 5) repeat as neccessary! YIKES this is very, very detailed work. Do not be in any hurry when you attempt to do this. My results were not perfect and I learned a few things along the way but I like the way it came out.

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