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local Asteroids cab. / connection methods for swappable CP's
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D_Harris:

--- Quote from: TopJimmyCooks on September 13, 2011, 02:45:04 pm ---
--- Quote from: D_Harris on September 13, 2011, 12:43:15 pm ---I developed what I call the "Quick-Swap" control panel system, so I can just swing the CP down, and swap the CP top for another before pushing it closed. There are no connectors to push together or pull apart because the Phosphor-Bronze spring backed contacts, which come together, involve zero-insertion-force.

So a swap takes about 5 seconds.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

--- End quote ---

D_, all BS from these guys aside, I am really interested in the spring contacts.  I looked long and hard at pogo pins but I just can't justify the cost/benefit ratio.  Did you cut your contact fingers yourself or find something on the market?  I would love to see a pic if you have one.  Check the CP thread in my sig and you'll see why I'm so interested.  Thanks  :cheers:

--- End quote ---

I had decided not to post pics until I finish everything. It's the art work for the control panels that I haven't done yet. (That's on the back burner while I try to take care of some personal things).

I had originally gotten some pogo pins, but realized that they wouldn't work. Besides, I need durability, and since there was nothing on the market that I could use, and I wasn't going to spend money to get them custom made, I decided I had no choice but to make my own.

To cut out the contacts I used a straight edge and a blade to score the Phosphor-Bronze sheet, before bending back and forth until the strip snapped off. I then cut to length, and bent them into "L" shapes with a little lip. I repeated until I had enough. This was actually the most difficult and tedious part of the project.

The thicker the contacts the better, but thicker ones are more difficult to cut out. You can get Phosphor-Bronze sheets from McMaster Carr. I actually used some stock I came across on eBay some years ago.

I used rubber sheet as a backing between the row of contacts and the support which is made of hard nylon. (I don't think it is necessary to do this with the opposing row of contacts).

I cut V-grooves in the ends of the nylon supports so that the opposing pieces come together the same way, making sure the contacts line up. The nylon's dimensional stability allows the contacts to come together perfectly every time.

Also, slots are cut into the nylon so that half of each "L" shaped contact fits into it's own groove and will not move. I then soldered leads to each one and secured them by their lips with another thin nylon strip I cut a thin groove into. This small piece is screwed into the main nylon support at each end.

One block is attached inside of the control panel base and the other is attached each removable control panel top.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
TopJimmyCooks:
Cool, I'd love to see the pix when you get your art wrapped up.  I know what you mean, around here your project is nothing without completed art.

I'll take a look at the bronze sheet from mcmaster.  do you know what gauge you ended up with?  are you happy with how springy it is? 
D_Harris:

--- Quote from: TopJimmyCooks on September 14, 2011, 11:57:35 am ---Cool, I'd love to see the pix when you get your art wrapped up.  I know what you mean, around here your project is nothing without completed art.

I'll take a look at the bronze sheet from mcmaster.  do you know what gauge you ended up with?  are you happy with how springy it is?  

--- End quote ---

Speaking of how springy it is. I have a slight modification I may have to incorporate. It's still early, so this can still considered the "testing phrase". (The simple below illustration shows the four basic parts of the lower contact row from an end view).

The modification would involve using rubber bushings between the support and contacts of both upper and lower contact rows, and replacing the secondary support with a straight piece with no groove. This would just attach above the contact lips to keep them from moving up.

*** What is not illustrated is that the main support has grooves on it's horizontal wall where the contacts fit.

I had to do a lot of sanding down and test fitting of the upper(CP) supports until the fit was "perfect" between opposing rows.

P.S.: You know we hijacked this thread.  ;D

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
TopJimmyCooks:
looking forward to seeing more of that.  looks like you're relying on the compression of the rubber rather than just the spring memory of the metal pieces. 


--- Quote from: D_Harris on September 14, 2011, 03:25:59 pm ---
P.S.: You know we hijacked this thread.  ;D

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

--- End quote ---

I cleared it w/Louis Tully by PM, he actually enjoyed the discourse on the mame v/s historic that went on earlier.  Of course, we can return to regularly scheduled programming at any time.  Post a thread your results on the CP when you're ready and don't worry about the knuckleheads.  There are many who would like to see the work you're doing. 
Nephasth:
Would hacking up a laptop dock work?





--- Quote from: D_Harris on September 14, 2011, 10:22:47 pm ---I'm aware that this site has the highest level of immaturity than the others site I frequent and therefore expect a higher number of trolls who attempt to analyze and decipher stuff you said and also stuff you didn't say. Especially since there are no mods here.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

--- End quote ---

Um... last I checked, building/collecting/playing arcade machines didn't rank so high on the scale of maturity...
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