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DNA Dan's discussion about secret drive
DNA Dan:
I see. So the idea is to have it completely FE controlled so you don't have to manually turn the monitor or push a button.
I want to use this with Hyperspin. I see someone wrote a vbscript called hyperotate. Has anyone tried this? I am sure the person who wrote it did, but not sure if they are still around.
I see that it's mostly been developed with MaLa. Would switching to MaLa for my frontend be better?
DaOld Man:
>>> I see. So the idea is to have it completely FE controlled so you don't have to manually turn the monitor or push a button.
Well, that was my ultimate goal anyway.
>>>I see someone wrote a vbscript called hyperotate
Ahh, I forgot about Haterot's work. (Sorry HR). I think he did work out a add on to allow Mrotate to work with Hyperspin.
I dont have Hyperspin, so I never tried it.
>>>> Would switching to MaLa for my frontend be better?
I cant say what front end would be best for you. I like Mala a lot, and it is constantly being upgraded and de-bugged by Loadman. I have an older version of it, but I need to download the latest, just to see how much it has changed.
Here is a link to the thread about using Mrotate with Mala. I think Haterot left a comment or two about his work with hyperspin:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=91842.0
DNA Dan:
Alrighty then. I am currently configured with Hyperspin. So I will give that a go when I get to that point. Hopefully you'll have the USB connection available by then :cheers: I will switch to MaLa if the script doesn't work for me. I do like the fact that it shows you what the controls are for the game. I haven't seen anything like that in hyperspin yet.
I am just now purchasing parts. I decided to get some things first so I can measure out for the cab. I know it's sort of backwards by not just building the cab first, but I want to completely mask off the rotating parts. I figure I can make a slim, 2 player cab with ~5 inch bezel all around and have users not even know it rotates. I'm excited to get started! You better have my back if I can't get this thing to rotate!
DaOld Man:
--- Quote from: DNA Dan on March 09, 2011, 06:17:22 pm ---Alrighty then. I am currently configured with Hyperspin. So I will give that a go when I get to that point. Hopefully you'll have the USB connection available by then :cheers: I will switch to MaLa if the script doesn't work for me. I do like the fact that it shows you what the controls are for the game. I haven't seen anything like that in hyperspin yet.
I am just now purchasing parts. I decided to get some things first so I can measure out for the cab. I know it's sort of backwards by not just building the cab first, but I want to completely mask off the rotating parts. I figure I can make a slim, 2 player cab with ~5 inch bezel all around and have users not even know it rotates. I'm excited to get started! You better have my back if I can't get this thing to rotate!
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Cool. Cant wait to see your work.
I am trying to get my own circuit built for USB control, but am running into problems with programming the PIC chip.
Here is a link to a kit that you can put together. The chip comes programmed with 16 I/O points. This is the one I am currently playing around with. I think it will work OK, but Im just trying to a cheaper means. So if you want to go ahead and order one, go for it.
http://www.electronics-diy.com/product_details.php?pid=614&name=USB%20IO%20Board%20Kit%20%28PIC18F2455%20/%20PIC18F2550%29
It is a kit, which means you need a good soldering iron and some soldering and electronics experience.
It doesnt come with a USB cord either, but you can cut the cable off an old mouse and solder it to the board instead of the plug that comes with the kit.
And I got your back man!
DaOld Man:
--- Quote from: DNA Dan on March 10, 2011, 11:58:42 pm ---Hmmm. Certainly not as simple as I thought, but I completely understand what you've laid out. So far my setup will need a GM2 motor with bracket and wheel, secret motor driver, two limit switches, a DPDT switch, some diodes and either a rheostat or a PWM controller. A few questions however:
If you are going to use the secret motor driver, then you should go ahead and make it automatic. Its not that much harder to do. I will probably have MRotateUSB ready by the time you are ready for it.
But if you still insist on going manual, then using the secret driver makes it a lot simpler than I have laid out.
I dont have time right now, but I will post a pic later to show how simple it will be using the secret driver.
For one thing, the diodes wont be necessary.
1) What sort of limit switches should I use? Leafs? Also once they are tripped, the rotation needs to be stopped in this position correct? Otherwise I see the switch being tripped, than the switch pushing back an closing the circuit again. What do people use for this? A weak magnet? A bump in the travel? Whatever it is the amount of power in the rotation needs to be able to overcome this in the opposite direction.
If the monitor rolls back off the limit switch with this type of drive, then yes, the motor will turn back on and ram against the limit switch again. You have the possibility of the monitor rocking back and forth constantly.
A magnet to hold it still is a good idea, but the motor has to be powerful enough to overcome the magnet when told to go in opposite direction. If you want to get real fancy, you could devise a brake that would hold the monitor still.
The brake could be released by a solenoid wired in parallel with the motor. (Motor on= solenoid on = brake released.)
The limit switches have to be big enough to handle the current that the motor draws.
I think that small motor you plan to use doesnt draw much current (Im not really sure, do you have any specs on it?)
If its not over a couple amps you can probably just use the micro switches that are on a Arcade cab push button.
Some people have actually used the push buttons themselves. The monitor disc simply presses the buttons when end of travel is reached.
2) What about the diodes? Where are they connected on the switch? Just between the red and black? Also which ones should I get for the setup with the GM2 motor?
The diodes have to be rated for the amount of current the motor can draw also.
They connect across the limit switch connections. They just supply a bypass method for the current to travel.
Post a pic of your drawing that you plan to do and I can draw the diodes in for you.
3) For the rheostat or the PWM controller, this needs to go between the secret motor driver and the motor leads correct? What about a voltage down regulator? I assume that secret motor drive needs 5v, so can't I just bump the voltage through a second regulator at say 3v and slow the speed?
I put that in my drawing just to make an illustration that it is possible. If you construct the rig so you can use the motor at full speed, this wont be needed, and yes, you can use a variable voltage regulator to control speed too.
It's not as hard as one might think.
Sorry for all the questions. Your help has clarified a lot already.
No problem. Asking questions can shed light for others who are on the fence wanting to take the plunge but afraid they dont know enough to do it.
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