multi jamma switcher options for light gun setup

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BobA:
Just a bit to add. When a jamma switcher requres the board to have constant power it is usually to decrease the cost of the board but it has the added benefit that the board is powered when your cab is powered so you can switch without the board having to go thru its startup diagnostics and calibration sequence. Instant switching from game to game.

runawayabc123:
For outgoing power... I should have asked how much power can a micro switch run as the diodes won't have to protect anything higer than that. I guess I also don't know how sensitive the micro switches/boards reading the signals are.

I guess the two "power" questions I have is what current do the micro switches (buttons/joystick) and video signals run on? (As these are the wires that will have diodes in place to protect current from flowing to them when they are "off", think wrong direction) None of this is on the power supply leads. I think I am asking about all of the wires that everyone just hooks up, whereas everyone worries about power voltages matching on the power leads.

Looking up 1N4148, it works to 100V (good there) but 200mA continuous load or 450mA reptitive peak load. So, in the jamma harness spec for a micro switch that is connected, I am guessing it never exceeds these numbers?

The relays are easy: 5V/15A, 12V/2.5A and -5V/1A as I match them to my power supply. (But, I will still take suggestions if things are more complicated than I have from the current information.) Actually the -5V/1A is a whole different question, but I digress.

I just have to find some blank circuit boards to serve my madness that won't end up being the size of my desk all said and done.

Thanks for your helpful post. This will be an interesting project.

BobA:
The micro switches pass very little current when used in a CP. The signal diodes will easily handle their load and the wire can be about as thin as you want since no significant current is passing thru them. Good luck on your project :D

runawayabc123:
As an update, I purchased some relays and diodes. I have enough for a 2 way switcher. I am planing on 12. 8) Proof of concet time

Anyway, I need a way to bring 12 (6 or whatever) wires together easily. Ideas? I have some circuit boards from radio shack (pre-made with copper lines) to do some of this... but maybe someone would have a better idea?

Which goes hand in hand with this question: anyone have a good way to go from 3/16 female quick disconnets on the jamma harness to my circuit board of diodes without chopping the harness? (Maybe some sort of quick disconnet barrier terminal?)

runawayabc123:
Update time! (Some of you may have noticed my other thread asking about bus wire vs a circuit write pen.)

The plan:
A harness to switch between 12 PCBs. 12 was picked because I needed a switch that could handle the DC coil on a relay big enough to power the PCBs. I found a 12 position one! (It is ordered and in the mail. I hope it works!)

POWER:
I have a couple 4 pole relays double throw relays (4PDT), I only need single throw with normally off (NO). I have tested this and it is working. (I have been a bad boy and didn't put the relief diode on the coil, but oh well. It will be on the final wiring.)

PLAYERS 1,2 OTHER WIRES
I have tested a couple buttons with diodes and they still work (as you might notice all of the diodes on the 6in1 switcher board). Please note, that multi jamma options that always power all of the boards don't need diodes, because they won't get ghost grounding on boards that aren't turned on, because they are all on. (note: I plan to support all buttons/wires except coin counter, lockout coil and slam/tilt) This has me diode protecting the 26 other signal switch/button wires.

LIGHT GUNS (The cause for it all!)
I have tested a light gun with diodes on all wires except for the ground. That works too! (It was a short test, but most of this has been short tests.) I have 4 wire light guns. 3 diodes, 1 ground

VIDEO
I have poked at video. I plan to relay switch RBG and Sync (not ground). In testing and being mean to my video card, I have found that only the Sync wire will cause video distortions if directly conected to a board that is turned off. After carefully studying high res (and some not so high res) pictures of the 6in1, it looks like the ground of 5 ICs are for controlling RBG, Sync and relays. So, I will relay all video lines. I will do more testing when I get these smaller relays.

SOUND
On the 6in1, the two big relays handle 5v,12v,speaker ground. So, I will also put speakers on relays. I plan to relay both positive and ground. (I got many of the same smaller DPDT relays, so both is easy at this point.)

JAMMA+ (PLAYERS 3 AND 4)
Jamma+ (players 3 and 4) will be handles similar to players 1 and 2, but another board with diodes to protect from ghost grounds. Since I have TMNT and The Simpsons (plus others), I am going with the Konami kick harness standard (6 buttons, 4 joystick, 1 ground). Coin, B1, B2, Joy1, Joy2, Joy3, Joy4, B3, Start, Service and Ground. I should be able to support any games with 6 buttons of options!

The first part I will complete is the light gun circuit board. It has lots of space for me to get good at soldering! (I also have a practice board.)

I did some rough math and I will have 1000s of feet of wire here! Yay. Around 2500 points to solder and around 1000 diodes required.

Suggestions are always welcome. Feel free to point out my flaws now! (It might same me time and money!)

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