Main > Main Forum

Soldering help

Pages: << < (5/6) > >>

RandyT:

+1 for solder wick.

Some solder is really difficult to get out with a non-heated sucker, like through-holes connected to a ground plane.  The ground plane pulls the heat away so quickly, the solder solidifies immediately when the iron is removed.  The solder wick is a perfect solution to this problem.  Always keep some on hand ;).

MonMotha:

Agreed.  Good solderwick is amazing stuff.  You can get solder out of almost any place with proper application of heat and solderwick.  Tip: you may have to wet the tip of the iron (with a little solder) or even apply a little solder to the solderwick to get heat to transfer well from the iron to the solderwick before it will pick anything up.  Get decent solderwick, too.  The radioshack stuff isn't very good.  Even the cheap MG Chemicals stuff works decently, though.

I do use both styles of desoldering tools, though.  In addition to my solderwick, I have an old temp controlled desoldering iron (bulb based - the fancy vacuum pump ones are too expensive for my taste at the moment).  The desoldering iron needs a new tip right now, though...

For reference, my main iron is a Weller WESD51.  Should be about $200 new or $100-150 used in good shape.  For another hundred or so, you can pick up a used Metcal station, but the tip cartridges for those can get a bit pricey compared to the Wellers.  Then again, the Metcals are pretty much the Cadillac of soldering irons.

I solder most through-hole parts and QFPs (all the way down to 0.5mm pitch) using the "ETA" tip the came with the iron.  This tip is actually fairly large (1/16" screwdriver), but it works very well for almost any purpose.  I've been meaning to get a "hoof" style tip to better facilitate drag soldering, but it's not required by any means.  For 0603 and some 0805 passives, I use an "ETP" (1/32" conical) style.  For extremely fine point touch up, I have an "ETS" (long reach 1/64" conical); I almost never use it.  1206 passives work well on the ETA tip.  For 0805, a smaller screwdriver style tip can be handy, but is not required (the ETA or ETP works fine).

When in doubt, flux the heck out of things.  Flux makes solder flow and stick.  It also provides some "goop" to keep things from sliding around as easily.  Most fluxes wash away fairly cleanly with isopropyl alcohol.  You can buy the fancy chemical stock stuff, but I just buy it at the drugstore :)

yotsuya:

I just watched a YouTube video on solder wick. Interesting stuff!

boardjunkie:

I've removed hundreds of ICs/sockets from arcade boards with nothing more than a manual spring loaded solder sucker and wick. The key to doing a clean job is using a flux pen on *both* sides of the pcb. The flux "wets" the solder so it can flow easier, and that translates to a more complete clearing of the thru-hole. If you do it right, all you need to do is move each chip pin a little to break any remaining solder bond and the chip should pop right out leaving the board unharmed. Wick is useful for stubborn solder on the component side of the board. With a swipe of the flux pen and wick, pulls it right off. I'll normally clean up both sides of the board after removing the IC with wick and deflux it. Its not really mandatory, but I like to leave the board looking as if no one has "been there"....


tommyinajar:


--- Quote from: yotsuya on April 06, 2011, 01:50:48 pm ---Actually, I've never desoldered. What the general process in regards to that?

--- End quote ---
I just got one.  ( an Aoyue 474A+) Overkill for 1 time job, maybe :)



Pages: << < (5/6) > >>

Go to full version