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Author Topic: MRotate5 (Bug fixed. Download V 1.0.1)  (Read 24898 times)

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DaOld Man

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MRotate5 (Bug fixed. Download V 1.0.1)
« on: February 28, 2011, 09:31:46 pm »
Just a quick announcement.
I am currently working on a MRotate version that will use the USB port instead of the printer port.
This will require additional hardware, but by using a PIC chip and a few additional parts, it can be done.
It will still be a lot easier to use a printer port, but for those who dont have that option, I am trying to produce a product that will allow you to rotate your monitor using USB.
Stay tuned.
« Last Edit: August 20, 2020, 11:57:28 pm by DaOld Man »

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2011, 12:21:43 am »
EXCELLENT!!  Thank you sir for the work you do!

 :applaud:

 :cheers:
Greetings From The Lord Humongous!

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2011, 01:00:50 am »
DaOld Man,

What do you think about using this motor controller instead of the secret motor driver?

http://www.solarbotics.com/products/33135/

It's already interfaced with a USB connection. Would have to think about how to diagram the limiting switches. Not the cheapest thing, but if it's an all in one solution I'd be into it. Don't know if you heard of these guys but their stuff is pretty slick.

http://www.phidgets.com/programming_resources.php


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2011, 04:29:25 am »
Looks interesting.
There are many controllers on the market. The only problem with this from my stand point is that to interface each controller with MRotate, each controller has to be crafted into the program.
Since I cant get my hands on every controller out there, and since each seems to have their own ways of passing commands, it is impossible for me to modify the code to work on every controller.
That is why I am leaning towards the USB I/O board. It can be more or less universal, like the printer port is.
However, if you want to purchase one of those drives, I will work with you all I can, but, I cant guarantee anything, including the amount of time I can spend on it. (This is not my bill paying job LOL ).

Maybe I need to concentrate on producing MRotate with plugin capabilities. Im sure a plugin would be easier to customize for each controller that pops up than it would be to re-program MRotate each time, but I really dont want to open a can of worms here.
Now if the community can pick out one controller to fit all rigs, then one MRotate version can be produced for that controller.
The problem with this is that the controller may work fine for someone with a low power motor, but wont work for a higher power one needed for a CRT or very a large LCD. Different voltages may be a problem too.

Of course there are plenty of programmers on here and some may be willing to write the script for any controller that pops up. Looks like the controller you have picked out works with several different languages.

From my standpoint, module construction, (one particular USB I/O interface + user supplied drive) is the best way to suite everyone. And my aim with MRotate from the very beginning was to supply a program that everyone can use, thus freeing up their time to concentrate more on the cabinet construction.

Bill Gates: why did you take away my beloved printer port? And what do you have in mind after USB becomes "old"?

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2011, 10:39:07 am »
Yeah its a constant struggle to keep up with the changing ports/formats. I think you are right on with the universal USB I/O board. That was the cheapest I could find that had a wide array of input support. The documentation was pretty good too for novice programmers.

I checked last night and I don't have a printer port on the computer I plan on putting in my cab. So I am left with having to use a mechanical switch until you can work out the USB interface (or something else). I am in the dark on the software side of things, I am more of a mechanical/engineering oriented person. So I need to use what you've got or rig up a mechanical solution which I could swap at a later date with software.

Some other ideas I was thinking of would be an 9-pin RS-232 serial port. Those are considered "legacy" but you can buy dongles and adaptors for those that convert the signal. A lot of instrumentation still use those ports today and it's sort of the standard in industrial automation. One other thought would be to run it off the pin header for a MOBO case fan. This would have to be a simple "turn on, turn off" circuit design and logic function would be removed, but this might be a way to "future-proof" a rotating setup. I know that wasn't the original I/O intent for Mrotate and a lot functionality is lost, but this is Bill Gates you're up against!

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2011, 04:19:25 pm »
With the RS232 9 pin port, you would still need some sort of a interface, most likely a pic chip.
I would go ahead and use the USB I/0 interface.
But there is still possibly another choice for you.
You can get an add on PCI to printer port card very cheap. MRotate3 should work with it just fine.
An add on card (If you have a spare PCI slot) is fairly easy to install, you may have to install the drivers that come with it.
Here is a post I did a while back over in Software Forum. Near the end of the post I show the printer port card I bought for around 10 bucks and tested with MRotate:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=94350.0

You will still need a drive. The secret drive (if you are using the secret motor) is pretty reasonably priced and will connect right to the printer port on the add-on pci card.

I'm not sure I would power the motor off the motherboard case fan header, unless you mean the molex connectors that come from the power supply. Im talking about the white plastic plugs that plug into the hard drive and CD rom.
These may power the motor, if it is a small one.
If the motor shuts down your computer when it turns, it is probably drawing too much current. If this happens, disconnect the motor, unplug the computer from the wall socket for a few seconds to reset the power supply. If this does happen, you will have to use another power supply for the motor.
I am just about to post some pics of using a toggle switch for a drive over in the tutorial Im putting together, if you really must go with manual rotation for now.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2011, 05:37:03 pm »
Good points. I think I will just do the manual rotation with a switch on top of my cab. What you posted in the other thread is EXACTLY what I am looking for with the limiting switches. As much as I like the software control, I'm just uncertain it will work with hyperspin. If I get the manual going properly and build up some confidence then maybe I will approach the software interface. I really want to use it, just too many "black box" things in my head right now. There's a lot to think about in building the perfect cab for oneself.

Your diagrams are perfect. I completely understand it much better now. Keep them coming!

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2011, 11:05:38 pm »
   If the printer port has gone the way of the Buffalo, maybe a new way might be to use the Arduino (or one of the many clones). The internet community has really come alive to support just about any project you could think of using these powerful devices. I'm sure that an application for rotating monitors exists for the right mind.

   http://www.arduino.cc/


 Cornchip.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2011, 01:13:31 am »

USB could be interesting. I wonder if I could use it to give just a continuous signal? The way my monitor is set up, that is all I need. It would then just switch a relay on or off. Relay on would be vertical, relay off horizontal (or vice versa)



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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #9 on: March 16, 2011, 09:38:57 am »

USB could be interesting. I wonder if I could use it to give just a continuous signal? The way my monitor is set up, that is all I need. It would then just switch a relay on or off. Relay on would be vertical, relay off horizontal (or vice versa)



Check out this thread, using a selector switch to manually change the monitor orientation.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=110207.40

If you dont want to use a H drive, it can be done with relays.
I have a relay exmple on here somewhere, I can find the thread and post a link if you want me to.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #10 on: March 16, 2011, 06:06:45 pm »
I am still planning on trying this. I am waiting for the parts to arrive. Once I have everything built I will do a "mock-up" and post the results.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #11 on: March 18, 2011, 01:31:29 am »

USB could be interesting. I wonder if I could use it to give just a continuous signal? The way my monitor is set up, that is all I need. It would then just switch a relay on or off. Relay on would be vertical, relay off horizontal (or vice versa)



Check out this thread, using a selector switch to manually change the monitor orientation.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=110207.40

If you dont want to use a H drive, it can be done with relays.
I have a relay exmple on here somewhere, I can find the thread and post a link if you want me to.

OH, I already use a switch:





It self parks using this circuit. Therefore to go fully automatic using the vert/hor list from mame would only entail two signals: ON for one orientation, and OFF for the other (if I add a relay)



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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #12 on: March 18, 2011, 06:15:26 am »
Im pretty sure you can get one signal off the RS232 port without any pic chips or anything else. It will have to turn on a transistor that then turns on the relay.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #13 on: March 18, 2011, 11:39:15 am »
DannyGalaga,

How do you control the speed of rotation?

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #14 on: March 18, 2011, 11:22:00 pm »
DannyGalaga,

How do you control the speed of rotation?

Everyones all hung up on stepper motors and stuff nowadays. How did they do ANYTHING in the days before  :D

The serious answer though involves the same. Good old fashioned gearing to the right speed and end stops. In my case, because it's only a 15" monitor in a cocktail cab, the microswitches are strong enough to be the end stops (",)


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #15 on: March 19, 2011, 07:22:10 am »
Well, in the stepper motors defense: With software you can set speed up and slow down points and stop points, you can also adjust the angle of the monitor easily through software. (No fiddling with the switches until it is just right).
Now I do believe that simple is better, but to be automatic (which you got to admit is way cooler), you need to get a bit more sophisticated.
And to be able to control the speed you need to run is a lot easier than figuring out the gearing before hand, plus it is a lot simpler.
And also, gearing (belts, pulleys, gears, whatever) takes up precious real estate space in the cabinet, and can produce more noise. (Case in point my first setup.)
Im not knocking your setup Danny, as a matter of fact I think it is fantastic, I guess Im just trying to defend the guys out there that are making "rotating a monitor" a work of art in itself. And exploring ways to do this is a great learning experience.
 ;)

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #16 on: March 19, 2011, 10:39:21 am »
For me gearing the thing seemed more complicated. I mean what gears, at what distance? How do you mount them? I'd sure love to see a pic of this. I guess it just depends on what skill you have.  :afro:

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #17 on: March 20, 2011, 10:51:55 pm »

I'm not knocking anyones project, that's for sure. For large monitors, you'd definitely want to be able to decelerate before getting to the end. Although I probably would have used some sort of dampener at the end stops instead. For me, what I've done is the simplest way possible. And it just so happens ( I didn't plan it this way) it would be the simplest system out there to 'fully' automate with software, since all it needs to be fully automated is a relay (and I guess a transistor for the relay) and a signal that is either on, or off. This has all come about because I am useless with software  ;D

If you look here,

http://dannygalaga.com/page3.htm

Scroll to 8th April and see what I've done. You can see how I've made the switches adjustable. And the gearing just happened to work out. I think the first disk I made was that one! It's very easy, without math, to get in the ballpark. It could actually stand to be a few mm larger in diameter though because as the motor has gotten older, it's getting harder to turn. I might pull it apart and regrease it.

I definitely am not knocking stepper motors. I have a soft spot for them. In trade school one day, the lecturer was talking about stepper motors and he suddenly had an epiphany. He went and grabbed an old alternator with exposed diodes, stuck it in the test bench and turned it into a crude stepper by manually pulsing the fields in succession. Although I was understanding what he was saying before, all of a sudden it made perfect sense to everyone that day. If only high school were that fun and impromptu  :)


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #18 on: March 21, 2011, 07:16:23 am »
I remember a lot of fun back in the school days. Every kid should stay in school, it really gets more fun as you progress.

Danny, if you are thinking of using relays for your setup, I have  a few ideas I can toss at ya.

If you have a printer port on your computer, you could even use MRotate to do it, but it might take one small relay and another larger one that can handle the current on your motor. (And transistors or a solenoid driver chip to turn on the relays.)
Or better yet, a chip (leave the rest up to you) that can latch and unlatch your motor relay.
One signal on the printer port turns on the relay, another signal turns it off.
Use Rotate Horizontal output to turn relay on and rotate vertical output to turn it off (in MRotate3).
It will be fun to see what you come up with.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #19 on: March 21, 2011, 09:36:11 am »
I remember a lot of fun back in the school days. Every kid should stay in school, it really gets more fun as you progress.

Danny, if you are thinking of using relays for your setup, I have  a few ideas I can toss at ya.

If you have a printer port on your computer, you could even use MRotate to do it, but it might take one small relay and another larger one that can handle the current on your motor. (And transistors or a solenoid driver chip to turn on the relays.)
Or better yet, a chip (leave the rest up to you) that can latch and unlatch your motor relay.
One signal on the printer port turns on the relay, another signal turns it off.
Use Rotate Horizontal output to turn relay on and rotate vertical output to turn it off (in MRotate3).
It will be fun to see what you come up with.

The motor only draws maybe an amp at most, I just realised I could probably keep it even simpler and use a transistor only (",)


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #20 on: March 21, 2011, 11:50:53 am »
What motor are you using? Where did you get it from?

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #21 on: March 21, 2011, 05:35:20 pm »
The motor only draws maybe an amp at most, I just realised I could probably keep it even simpler and use a transistor only (",)

You will probably need an H drive (4 power transistors and 4 switch transistors.)
You could get away with just two power transistors, but you will need a dual power supply.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #22 on: March 22, 2011, 02:35:13 am »
The motor only draws maybe an amp at most, I just realised I could probably keep it even simpler and use a transistor only (",)

You will probably need an H drive (4 power transistors and 4 switch transistors.)
You could get away with just two power transistors, but you will need a dual power supply.

God yes, I think so linearly! I think of one thing, and forget the other. So amps wise a transistor is fine, but the simplest way to flip/flop for my cab is a relay. How much current does the printer port output with your system? How much for the USB? Only signal-sized outputs? A few milliamps? there are some really small mechanical relays on the market which might just work without amplifying the signal. Otherwise, it's what you said originally- a transistor driving the relay.


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #23 on: March 22, 2011, 06:44:39 am »
Printer port is good for 10-20 MA. (Most likely 10-15).
Usb is good for maximum 500 ma, and sometimes it is only good for 100 MA, so I highly suggest you do not try to directly drive a relay with these ports.

However there are drivers out there such as the ULN2823A
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/120808/ALLEGRO/ULN2823A.html
that can drive a relay. The only drawback is that it inverts the signal (high from printer or usb port = low at relay), but this is ok for relays, just keep it in mind. They are good for up to 500 ma. But the above link says they have quit manufacturing the ULN2823A.

Another option would be to use the H Drive chip that sjbaines used on his project:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=107919
(No relays necessary except for degauss, if you need that function).

Last but certainly not least you can use an opto-isolator between the port and the relays.


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #24 on: March 22, 2011, 07:11:47 pm »
I threw together this circuit.
It is using the RS232 pin 7 (RTS) to turn on a small motor.
Opening the comm port causes RTS to go high, which turns on Q1 (a small power transistor) which turns on the motor.

Closing the comm port causes RTS to go low, which turns off the motor.

I have bread boarded this and it seems to be working fine. The only problem I can see right away is that if another program attempts to open the same comm port, may turn on the motor.

This could be your answer to using one relay to switch your motor the same way your DPDT switch is doing now.
Just substitute teh motor in the drawing with a relay coil.

EDIT: I changed the drawing to show an additional diode, D2.
The port when high is +12 VDC to ground. When it goes low it is -12 VDC to ground.
D2 keeps the -12 volts from the transistor. The transistor that I used doesnt mind this, but some may.

« Last Edit: March 26, 2011, 07:32:20 pm by DaOld Man »

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #25 on: March 25, 2011, 08:16:55 am »
I threw together this circuit.
It is using the RS232 pin 7 (RTS) to turn on a small motor.
Opening the comm port causes RTS to go high, which turns on Q1 (a small power transistor) which turns on the motor.

Closing the comm port causes RTS to go low, which turns off the motor.

I have bread boarded this and it seems to be working fine. The only problem I can see right away is that if another program attempts to open the same comm port, may turn on the motor.

This could be your answer to using one relay to switch your motor the same way your DPDT switch is doing now.
Just substitute teh motor in the drawing with a relay coil.



Cool! Now, just to be sure, the rs232 port is the one that looks like the monitor port, and is commonly next to the monitor port? I might have to download the mrotate thingo and have a fiddle (",)


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #26 on: March 25, 2011, 11:15:47 pm »
Yes, the RS232 comm port kinda looks like the monitor port, EXCEPT, the monitor port has 15 pins and is a female port, whereas the comm port has 9 pins and is a male port.

Mrotate will not work with the comm port, printer port only (until I finish the USB version).
But I think I can throw you together a comm port version, if you want.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #27 on: March 26, 2011, 12:09:45 pm »
Here is a simple circuit I have come up with using the RS232.
This circuit is "dumb", which means the computer simply sends out signals to relays, it gets no feedback from your rig.
 A quick description:
CRM is a relay that can handle the current of your motor. It must be a 3PDT (two DT contacts take the place of your toggle switch, the remaining DT contact serves as a normally open contact to latch the relay on).
CRS is a smaller relay (or it can be the same as CRM), it only needs one normally closed contact.
CRS is used to turn off CRM.
Q1 and Q2 are TIP120 NPN transistors. R1 and R2 are 1 K ohm resistors. D1 and D2 are 1 amp diodes.
Q1's base connects to pin 4 of the 9 pin Rs232 comm port. (through the r1)
Q2's base connects to pin 7 of the port (through r2)
Pin 5 of the port connects to both transistors emitters and to the power supply's ground.

Here's how it works:
A high on pin 4 turns on Q1, which turns on CRM. The normally open contact of CRM N.O. closes, which then bypasses Q1, holding CRM on (this is called latching or sealing).
When pin4 goes low, CRM remains on.

When pin 7 goes high, Q2 is turned on, which turns on CRS. When CRS turns on, it's contact, CRS N.C. opens, which un-latches CRM. CRM turns off.

If both pin 4 and pin 7 are high, CRM is off.

I can write you a quick program that can do this using the same command arguments that MRotate would used.

There is a major concern about rotating your monitor like this, and it may not concern you at all.
CRM always turns off when you turn off your arcade.

Say for instance when CRM is turned on your monitor turns to horizontal.
Now whenever you power up your arcade, CRM will be off, so your monitor will immediately turn to vertical.
Your front end wont know this and it may already be orientated for horizontal, so your screen will look funny.
There are ways around this, but if you keep going, you may as well break down and use a H drive on the printer port.
:)

EDIT: I changed the drawing to show two additional diodes, D3 and D4.
Pin 4 when high is +12 VDC to ground. When it goes low it is -12 VDC to ground.
Pin 7 is +7-10 VDC when high and -7-10 VDC when low.
D3 and D4 keep the negative currents from the transistors. The transistors that I used dont mind this, but some may.
Pay close attention to this if you are using an electronic drive.
An easy fix for this would be to change the transistors to opto isolators, or solid state relays.
« Last Edit: March 26, 2011, 07:37:13 pm by DaOld Man »

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #28 on: March 27, 2011, 01:06:46 am »

I think I'll wait for your usb version  :)


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #29 on: March 27, 2011, 01:20:49 am »

I think I'll wait for your usb version  :)

Awww, I already had a MRotateDG version just about finished!
:)
I think you will be happier with the ability to fully control the motor from the software.
But if anyone wants to use the comm port instead of USB or printer port, just know that it can be done.
And by using the PWM module that DNA Dan came up with, it can be done with relays and also still have speed control.
I cut my teeth on relays way back in the 70's, so I have a special place for them in my heart.
But solid state devices such as transistors are much cheaper, more versatile, and more efficient than relays.
They just aint as simple.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #30 on: March 27, 2011, 01:51:20 am »
Ok, back to my USB version.
I have decided to go with the USB IO kit offered by electronics-diy.com

http://www.electronics-diy.com/USB_IO_Board.php

This board is pretty easy to put together. It only has a few parts and comes with everything you need except the usb cord. If you dont have a cord that fits the socket they send, you can cut one end off an old usb cord and solder it in place of the socket they send with the kit.

This board has 16 pins that can be configured as inputs or outputs.
MRotateUSB (final name is pending) will allow you to configure the pins from the setup mode.
MrotateUSB will allow you to configure it based on your drive needs, just like previous versions did with the printer port.

Here is a quick and dirty diagram of how you could hook up an H drive with an enable (such as the secret motor drive).


EDIT: I felt the need to clarify something. I mentioned that the board comes with everything you need. Dont let this be misleading. This board comes with all parts needed to construct the USB IO device.
You will still need additional components such as motor, motor drive, power supply for motor, limit switches, pull up and pull down resistors to complete your project.
You will also need solder and a good soldering iron for the IO board. it is a kit that you have to put together.
« Last Edit: March 27, 2011, 02:59:20 am by DaOld Man »

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #31 on: March 30, 2011, 07:56:04 am »
Hi DaOldMan,
great to see rotating Monitor Setups will come more common :-)

In my pinball project I am using a ready assembled Dual-H-Bridge to drive the motor
It is using the L298N Dual H Bridge it can drive 4,8-46V and 2A load
I think it will be easy to connect it to your PIC USB Board and it can driven via PWM too...

http://www.wolfsoft.de/shop/product_info.php/products_id/14869/

« Last Edit: March 30, 2011, 08:10:33 am by wolfsoft »
http://www.blog.wolfsoft.de for arcade tutorials
http://www.wolfsoft.de for our website

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #32 on: March 30, 2011, 06:17:51 pm »
Looks like it could interface quite easily with the usbio board.
Thanks Wolfsoft.

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #33 on: March 31, 2011, 04:05:18 am »
Hi DaOld Man,

if you need one free sample of the DUAL Brigde. No Problem!
Please send me your adress via private mail.

Thanks
Klaus
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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #34 on: May 03, 2011, 10:33:24 am »
L298 Stepper driver is also available from Ebay for $15.88 (free international shipping):

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/L298N-Stepper-Motor-Driver-Controller-Board-Module-DC-/270725603284?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0880dfd4#ht_2987wt_948

Potentially cheaper auctions starting at $0.01 and 4.99 shipping.

Cheap enough if you only require 1, personally I am still looking for cheaper stepper drivers, either building my own partly or completely, depending on what parts are used.

I am currently designing several CNC machines, and although prepared to pay decent money (200) for 6 x 4.2A drivers for my 8'x4' 4/5 axis wood machine that will probably cost me 1500 including all  motors and electronics. However I object to paying 35+ for a 4 axis board for a desktop machine or foam wire cutter with less than 200 in parts including motors.

I am also looking to build a MAME cabinet with a rotating monitor - hence my interest in this thread.

I originally designed a cocktail cabinet and then decided to go with something more like Kneivel's "Woody" but with a rotating monitor and maybe even rotating controls (still undecided on that part).

I am looking at a slightly different method of rotating the monitor, that I do not believe anyone else has tried yet - using a car electric/power window mechanism and a lazy susan bearing, the window winder mechanism providing 90 degrees of rotation by pushing on a corner of the monitor at about a 45 degree angle, still need to mock it all up to see what other parts may be required.

The mechanism I am using has geared rotation that is turned into straight line movement by levers/arms, (scissor action) I will probably not use all of these "arms" but will need the attachment point on the monitor board to be able to pivot.

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #35 on: May 06, 2011, 04:37:32 pm »
L298 Stepper driver is also available from Ebay for $15.88 (free international shipping):

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/L298N-Stepper-Motor-Driver-Controller-Board-Module-DC-/270725603284?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0880dfd4#ht_2987wt_948

Potentially cheaper auctions starting at $0.01 and 4.99 shipping.

Cheap enough if you only require 1, personally I am still looking for cheaper stepper drivers, either building my own partly or completely, depending on what parts are used.

I am currently designing several CNC machines, and although prepared to pay decent money (200) for 6 x 4.2A drivers for my 8'x4' 4/5 axis wood machine that will probably cost me 1500 including all  motors and electronics. However I object to paying 35+ for a 4 axis board for a desktop machine or foam wire cutter with less than 200 in parts including motors.

I am also looking to build a MAME cabinet with a rotating monitor - hence my interest in this thread.

I originally designed a cocktail cabinet and then decided to go with something more like Kneivel's "Woody" but with a rotating monitor and maybe even rotating controls (still undecided on that part).

I am looking at a slightly different method of rotating the monitor, that I do not believe anyone else has tried yet - using a car electric/power window mechanism and a lazy susan bearing, the window winder mechanism providing 90 degrees of rotation by pushing on a corner of the monitor at about a 45 degree angle, still need to mock it all up to see what other parts may be required.

The mechanism I am using has geared rotation that is turned into straight line movement by levers/arms, (scissor action) I will probably not use all of these "arms" but will need the attachment point on the monitor board to be able to pivot.

Welcome to the forum and the hobby!
Looking forward to seeing how you rotate your monitor.

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #36 on: January 02, 2012, 05:48:49 pm »
Hello DaOld Man,

any news about the Mrotate USB?
I have the Solarbotics setup (GearMotor 3 + SecretMotorDriver) and this USB IO kit http://www.svcommerce.it/scheda.JBPIC.html and I'd like to try the USB way before the parallel port way...  ;D

Thanks in advance, and sorry for my bad english.

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #37 on: January 02, 2012, 09:39:52 pm »
The Mrotate USB project has been put on hold, due other things in life.
However, I am anxious to get back on this project. Im glad to see some new interest in this.
That usb io kit website is not in english, so I need some time to think on it. (Sorry I only know english.)
How is this kit controlled? Is it by usb comm port or is it by script?

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #38 on: January 03, 2012, 04:41:13 am »
Thanks for the reply  ;)
The USB IO board is similar if not identical to your 'reference' kit. It has a bootloader onboard but not the firmware (it can be used for Playstation3 jailbreak...).
In the meantime I'll go with the parallel port!


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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #39 on: January 03, 2012, 08:38:55 pm »
OK, you gave me a jump start ataruzzolo, I definitely need to get back on this project, but it might be a while, I will keep you in mind when Im ready for a tester.

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #40 on: January 04, 2012, 02:30:47 pm »
 :cheers:

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #41 on: January 06, 2012, 10:52:11 pm »
Doesn't it feel good to be needed  ;D.
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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #42 on: January 06, 2012, 11:00:46 pm »
Yeah, it really does..  :applaud:

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #43 on: January 25, 2012, 08:33:28 pm »
Hello again,

Is anyone any further with this project?  Last I remember, was a USB driver PCB with a small motor and some microswitches....  This still  a go for anyone?

Thanks for all the works... I'm getting back into this again soon and would really like to get a decent, economical way to rotate my monitor using maximus arcade FE or Mala..

Good day!
 :applaud: :applaud:
Greetings From The Lord Humongous!

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #44 on: January 27, 2012, 12:11:54 am »
Hello Gametech!
If you search back through the posts in this forum you will see how different people have approached the monitor rotation trick.
I used the printer port, which is probably the easiest and cheapest route to go, especially if you are using a hefty motor.
Some of the people on here are using a small motor which seems to work for LCD monitors, but if you are rotating a CRT monitor, you will need to use a bigger motor with more power.
I still plan to get back on my usb mrotate project, just been covered up here lately with other projects.

Tell us more about your project.
What size monitor are you going to use?
CRT or LED (LCD)?

I have thought about throwing together a USB breakout board with a drive and selling them for a small profit (to cover my time), for folks who dont want to build their own. If there is any interest in it, of course.
But putting together the kits is not very hard, if you can solder.

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #45 on: July 13, 2020, 01:04:07 pm »
Dusting this thread off.
Since I left this project hanging, I thought I may have time now to finish it.
I lost my hard drive a few years ago and a lot of my work went with it.
I was working on a USB version of mrotate to go with the PIC board mentioned in this thread.
I have found some backups but I think what I have needs more work.
Not sure if anyone is interested, but I feel I need to finish up these projects I have left hanging.

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #46 on: July 15, 2020, 11:32:41 am »
I would love it to buy, test and use it

Cheers
Ger

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #47 on: July 15, 2020, 05:31:31 pm »
I would love it to buy, test and use it

Cheers
Ger

Great!
I have the board somewhere, cant remember where i stored it. As soon as I find it I will get back on this program.
Let me see if I can find a link to that board.

I put the link for that board on page one of this thread. Just checked and it is still in stock (scroll to the bottom of that page I linked to), but looks like it has gone up in price. I dont remember paying that much for it.
Heres the link again:
http://www.electronics-diy.com/USB_IO_Board.php
« Last Edit: July 15, 2020, 05:35:13 pm by DaOld Man »

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #48 on: July 21, 2020, 02:27:11 pm »
Think I remember why I shelved this project years ago.
Im having trouble getting MSComm to work with the pic chip.
MSComm is a component in VB6 that communicates with the serial ports.
It works great until I run mrotate third or fourth time then program hangs up with error 8015.
I also receive TX Buffer Overrun errors occasional from the chip.
I have tried changing mscomm settings and the receive/transmit buffer sizes in the comport settings in windows device manager.
I also uninstall the driver and reinstalled, that is downloaded from the electronics-diy web site.
Im still searching for a solution but thinking about maybe trying a different board. Its hard to find any tech info on VB6 anymore, I really need to switch to a newer platform, but old dogs new tricks etc.
If anyone can give me some pointers or things to try, I would forever be in your debt.

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #49 on: July 22, 2020, 02:53:41 pm »
Tried the program on a 32 bit windows vista laptop and it seems to be working fine on it.
So it may be an issue with 64 bit or Windows 10.
Installed driver made for vista and xp 64 bit, but same problem on my win10 64 bit desktop. (Latest driver I could find.)
I would ask you guys to rest it for me, but you must have the pic board hooked up before the program will work.
so, unless you already have this board, I wouldnt recommend you buy one just to test the program for me.

I am still researching this board, but think I will look at others.
For this board to work for our hobby, it needs to work with 32 and 64 bit machines.
And I could still be doing something wrong in my code that talks to the board.
I will continue to develop mrotate5 though, cause it looks like it will work fine on 32 bit.


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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #50 on: August 16, 2020, 06:05:13 pm »
Ok, I am almost ready to post this project for anyone who wants to beta test it, and use it.
The board is a "Bit Whacker" that has the firm ware on it to allow the Mrotate5 to communicate with it though USB.
Here is the link to the one I purchased several years ago:
http://www.electronics-diy.com/USB_IO_Board.php
It is a kit that you have to assemble, but its really not that big a deal.

I also found a cheaper board on sparkfun, but it says it is currently unavailable. This board is laid out different, but commands look to be the same, so MRotate5 should work with it too.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/762

There are also tutorials online that show how to build one from scratch, but unless you are into electronics, I would just buy a kit with all the parts you will need.
Here is documentation for the Bit Whacker. (Mine has version 1.4.3 firmware).
http://www.schmalzhaus.com/UBW/Doc/FirmwareDDocumentation_v145.html

I will post the program in a day or so. Just going through correcting small things, like grammar errors, etc in the help files.
This works on my win10 64 bit desktop and Vista 32 bit laptop.
The problem I was having with it locking up was the way I was trying to communicate with it. Pretty sure I got that ironed out.
So if you are interested in this project, stay tuned.
« Last Edit: August 16, 2020, 06:06:58 pm by DaOld Man »

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #51 on: August 16, 2020, 06:34:29 pm »
Heres a little eye candy for you kiddoes...

This first one is the board itself, i have it mounted on a proto board, along with LEDs on outputs and inputs connected to a DIP switch.
The leds arent real bright cause the resistors I used are way too big. Need to be around 470-500 ohms. (leds not turned on in this pic anyway), but hey, I was just testing anyway so its all good.
I also have a USA 25cent quarter laying beside the board for size comparison.
The inputs are pulled high by the resistors near the switch bank. Resistors connect to inputs and +5 vdc from the board (pin 20) (These are the correct resistors for this). Turning on a DIP switch connects that input to ground.



This pic is the test panel display on my laptop. (sorry for poor quality). Test panel allows you to run your rotating rig from a testing advantage.
(Normal operation the program is never seen, runs on command line commands same as previous MRotate versions.


And last pic of the day is screen shot (again, poor quality), of the Chip Status display.
Test Panel and Chip Display are only available when you run Mrotate5 in setup mode.


Well thats it for now. Will post more later.



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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #52 on: August 17, 2020, 03:31:14 pm »
Ok, time for a few wiring diagrams.

Here is the basic setup, drive has forward and reverse inputs only, limit switches are pulled low to ground when made.



Same setup except the drive has a enable input.



Same setup with a stop button (optional). This button is a software stop, which means if computer screws up, the program stops working, chip freezes up for whatever reason, or drive screws up and sticks on, then this button wont work. I also show how you would wire in a real emergency stop switch, that kills power to the drive.



And here is how you would connect a monitor off relay to allow MRotate to turn off your monitor while turning (optional).
This shows the simplest method, using a solid state relay. Good luck finding  one that is normally closed on the output.
I will post a drawing later on how to use a "real" electro-mechanical relay.



That's enough for now, will show how to use a degauss relay next.

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #53 on: August 18, 2020, 10:35:09 am »
Here is one way you could use a degauss relay to let MRotate5 automatically degauss your monitor.



And here is a crappy screenshot of outputs section in setup, where you choose which output you are using for degauss.



And an even more crappier screenshot of the time limits section of setup, where you choose pause before degauss and degauss relay on times.



Input section in Setup mode:



Commands. These are the arguments you pass to MRotate to turn vertical or horizontal when you run it. Example: C:\Mrotate5\mrotate5 0



Dynamic braking. (Optional).



Options:



There are buttons with ?. Clicking these will open help boxes. Here is the one for the pic chip:



When you first run setup, you will see this main menu: (Run setup by omitting the argument Example: C:\Mrotate5\mrotate5     On first run, setup will start because the ini file has not been created yet. )



I think that pretty well covers all the selections. I have already posted Test panel and Picchip photos. About is basically me patting myself on the back.
If you run the program with the arguments to turn one way or the other, you wont see any of these screens. It will just do its job, providing there are no problems encountered.
« Last Edit: August 18, 2020, 07:21:46 pm by DaOld Man »

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #54 on: August 18, 2020, 07:08:14 pm »
Ok guys, im about ready to upload the program. I hope some of you have the time to test it.
You dont have to have the picchip board to test the program, but certain parts will not work and may slap your hand with an error message.
But if you do have the board that would be even better.
You will have to have RSTimer.ocx and mscomm32.ocx, I plan to post both of these here with the program (both are free downloads.) Your PC may already have the mscomm32.
But if it doesnt have MSCOMM32 I will make it easier for you to get.
The RSTimer is a precision timer, much more accurate in the millisecond range than the tradition timers. I use it for the PWM functions for speed control.
Even if you dont use the PWM option you will still need this RSTimer. (I use it for other timing functions). Program will pop up an error on startup if you dont have it.

Will try to post it tomorrow.

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Re: MRotate5 (UPLOAD Available)
« Reply #55 on: August 19, 2020, 08:28:26 am »
Ok, here it is.
This is build 1.0.0.
I will leave it up here for a week or so.
If no one tests it or there are no reported problems, then I will post it to File Repository and add it to the Downloads thread on here.
I placed the program, dependencies, and IO board drivers all in zipped form into a folder called Package.
I then zipped it because I was afraid BYOAC wouldnt let me upload it otherwise.
There is also a crude text file called "readme" that has instructions on how to install it and the dependencies.
Shouldnt be a problem, but let me know if it is.
Thanks for taking the time to review this and possibly use it in your project.
I welcome all comments and suggestions and appreciate all feedback.
I also included some crude hook up wiring diagrams.
Hope you enjoy, and it feels good to finally complete a project!

Update: Found a bug where if you dont use dynamic braking degauss would not come on.
Should be fixed. This is build 1.0.1, replace the build 1.0.0 that is in the package. No need to download the package if you already have, just download this mrotate5 and replace it.
I have replaced build 1.0.0 with the new 1.0.1 in the package, so you will have the correct build if you download the package now.

« Last Edit: August 21, 2020, 12:02:24 am by DaOld Man »

darthpaul

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Re: MRotate5 (UPLOAD Available)
« Reply #56 on: August 19, 2020, 10:36:41 am »
You are Da Man Ken, this is much cleaner than slicing wires to a printer port cable. I'm guessing that this would also work with cprotate.
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Re: MRotate5 (UPLOAD Available)
« Reply #57 on: August 19, 2020, 11:08:28 am »
You are Da Man Ken, this is much cleaner than slicing wires to a printer port cable. I'm guessing that this would also work with cprotate.

Thanks Paul!
The pic chip will not work with the cprotate program I wrote for you.
If I remember correctly, that had 3 stop positions? So MRoate5 will not work either (It only has two stops.)
But I can probably convert cprotate to use the pic chip, if you are interested.
Did we ever finish that project?

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Re: MRotate5 (Bug fixed. Download V 1.0.1)
« Reply #58 on: August 21, 2020, 12:10:24 pm »
We never did finish it, I think those three stops were causing problems. Maybe using just two out of the three panels would be easier to program.
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Re: MRotate5 (Bug fixed. Download V 1.0.1)
« Reply #59 on: August 22, 2020, 10:08:51 am »
I think just 2 panels would be a lot easier. Im sure MRotate5 would work with that, since motion would be same as a rotating monitor. (But it wouldnt have the other bells and whistles you wanted :) )
But 3 panels would be a lot cooler!

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Re: MRotate5 (Bug fixed. Download V 1.0.1)
« Reply #60 on: August 22, 2020, 02:23:26 pm »
It would be cooler, I'll start thinking about redesigning a few things.
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Re: MRotate5 (Bug fixed. Download V 1.0.1)
« Reply #61 on: August 22, 2020, 02:35:26 pm »
It would be cooler, I'll start thinking about redesigning a few things.

Cool.
I was thinking that a 3 pin encoder can be used with this chip to give positions. Just something to think about.
I will try to set up a test rig and experiment.
maybe we need to start another thread?

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Re: MRotate5 (Bug fixed. Download V 1.0.1)
« Reply #62 on: September 08, 2020, 01:05:21 pm »
Hello DaOld Man
Project with USB show. I will read the topic to start buying parts. ;)
« Last Edit: September 08, 2020, 02:33:11 pm by pixel.arcade »

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Re: MRotate5 (Bug fixed. Download V 1.0.1)
« Reply #63 on: September 08, 2020, 07:21:30 pm »
Hello DaOld Man
Project with USB show. I will read the topic to start buying parts. ;)

Great man! Cant wait to see your results, and holler if I can help.

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Re: MRotate5 (Bug fixed. Download V 1.0.1)
« Reply #64 on: January 12, 2022, 03:35:03 pm »
 Ehiii DUDE!!!!! how are you!!!!  :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:  :notworthy: :notworthy:

Im super happy to see youre involded again in an amazing project that im interested in   :notworthy:

After a long time (did you remember the ICECADE while you help me A LOT to write a mini scrip to rotate screen by a button?) i decide to jump in another small project to upgrade my grand son coin-op to, finally play at GUNSMOKE in a correct way (vertically).

Yes, my idea its to made a rotating monitor that rotate every time a vertical game its selected and the same for the horizontal.

From what i read its not a easy to do, i read all your beginner guide and printed it to go more deep on the (really) "basic knowledge" about motor and stuff, and also i think to understand that your software help me also to interface mame games and give them correct input rotation (based on games ini?)

Im not too much able to create by myself circuit board because im not a pro on these stuff so i was looking to buy a motor control interface that help me about "electronic connection" like the one posted here http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,110083.msg1173456.html#msg1173456 , this could be useful to interface your software and other components and let talk them in a correct way?

I will show the "cage" who actually buy for this project and that fit correctly for my size, monitor its a 22" crt so pretty heavy to rotate.

Thank you a lot again, i cant explain how you was amazing with my other project!!!!  :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:

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Re: MRotate5 (Bug fixed. Download V 1.0.1)
« Reply #65 on: January 12, 2022, 11:48:24 pm »
Hi Marco!! Good to hear from you.
If you use that drive you linked to, you will need to buy the USB PIC board I mentioned earlier.
You can then use MRotate5 to operate that USB board.
Be glad to help anyway i can.
Good luck with your project, and I like that monitor frame, did you make it or buy it ready made?

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Re: MRotate5 (Bug fixed. Download V 1.0.1)
« Reply #66 on: January 13, 2022, 11:21:23 am »
If you use that drive you linked to, you will need to buy the USB PIC board I mentioned earlier.

Perfect clear!

Be glad to help anyway i can.

 :notworthy: :notworthy: thank you again!

Good luck with your project, and I like that monitor frame, did you make it or buy it ready made?

This is a Frame that i saw on fb marketplace looks interesting and help me to have more clear the idea to make a rotary monitor; my cab actually already have a rotary system but its made by wood then its not confortable to rotate; also i have to remove the monitor to manually rotate it.

This looks like interesting because the frame is embedded and i could rotate only thank few DC motors (or only one??).

PS: Sorry to post it on the wrong section, feel free to remove these posts i will open a new 3D when im able to start the project :notworthy:
« Last Edit: January 13, 2022, 02:03:22 pm by Marcoqwerty »

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Re: MRotate5 (Bug fixed. Download V 1.0.1)
« Reply #67 on: January 21, 2022, 06:57:38 am »

PS: Sorry to post it on the wrong section, feel free to remove these posts i will open a new 3D when im able to start the project :notworthy:

No problem man, but starting a new thread dedicated to your project may make it more attractive to folks just scanning through.