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Author Topic: MRotate5 (Bug fixed. Download V 1.0.1)  (Read 24872 times)

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DaOld Man

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MRotate5 (Bug fixed. Download V 1.0.1)
« on: February 28, 2011, 09:31:46 pm »
Just a quick announcement.
I am currently working on a MRotate version that will use the USB port instead of the printer port.
This will require additional hardware, but by using a PIC chip and a few additional parts, it can be done.
It will still be a lot easier to use a printer port, but for those who dont have that option, I am trying to produce a product that will allow you to rotate your monitor using USB.
Stay tuned.
« Last Edit: August 20, 2020, 11:57:28 pm by DaOld Man »

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2011, 12:21:43 am »
EXCELLENT!!  Thank you sir for the work you do!

 :applaud:

 :cheers:
Greetings From The Lord Humongous!

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #2 on: March 10, 2011, 01:00:50 am »
DaOld Man,

What do you think about using this motor controller instead of the secret motor driver?

http://www.solarbotics.com/products/33135/

It's already interfaced with a USB connection. Would have to think about how to diagram the limiting switches. Not the cheapest thing, but if it's an all in one solution I'd be into it. Don't know if you heard of these guys but their stuff is pretty slick.

http://www.phidgets.com/programming_resources.php


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2011, 04:29:25 am »
Looks interesting.
There are many controllers on the market. The only problem with this from my stand point is that to interface each controller with MRotate, each controller has to be crafted into the program.
Since I cant get my hands on every controller out there, and since each seems to have their own ways of passing commands, it is impossible for me to modify the code to work on every controller.
That is why I am leaning towards the USB I/O board. It can be more or less universal, like the printer port is.
However, if you want to purchase one of those drives, I will work with you all I can, but, I cant guarantee anything, including the amount of time I can spend on it. (This is not my bill paying job LOL ).

Maybe I need to concentrate on producing MRotate with plugin capabilities. Im sure a plugin would be easier to customize for each controller that pops up than it would be to re-program MRotate each time, but I really dont want to open a can of worms here.
Now if the community can pick out one controller to fit all rigs, then one MRotate version can be produced for that controller.
The problem with this is that the controller may work fine for someone with a low power motor, but wont work for a higher power one needed for a CRT or very a large LCD. Different voltages may be a problem too.

Of course there are plenty of programmers on here and some may be willing to write the script for any controller that pops up. Looks like the controller you have picked out works with several different languages.

From my standpoint, module construction, (one particular USB I/O interface + user supplied drive) is the best way to suite everyone. And my aim with MRotate from the very beginning was to supply a program that everyone can use, thus freeing up their time to concentrate more on the cabinet construction.

Bill Gates: why did you take away my beloved printer port? And what do you have in mind after USB becomes "old"?

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2011, 10:39:07 am »
Yeah its a constant struggle to keep up with the changing ports/formats. I think you are right on with the universal USB I/O board. That was the cheapest I could find that had a wide array of input support. The documentation was pretty good too for novice programmers.

I checked last night and I don't have a printer port on the computer I plan on putting in my cab. So I am left with having to use a mechanical switch until you can work out the USB interface (or something else). I am in the dark on the software side of things, I am more of a mechanical/engineering oriented person. So I need to use what you've got or rig up a mechanical solution which I could swap at a later date with software.

Some other ideas I was thinking of would be an 9-pin RS-232 serial port. Those are considered "legacy" but you can buy dongles and adaptors for those that convert the signal. A lot of instrumentation still use those ports today and it's sort of the standard in industrial automation. One other thought would be to run it off the pin header for a MOBO case fan. This would have to be a simple "turn on, turn off" circuit design and logic function would be removed, but this might be a way to "future-proof" a rotating setup. I know that wasn't the original I/O intent for Mrotate and a lot functionality is lost, but this is Bill Gates you're up against!

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2011, 04:19:25 pm »
With the RS232 9 pin port, you would still need some sort of a interface, most likely a pic chip.
I would go ahead and use the USB I/0 interface.
But there is still possibly another choice for you.
You can get an add on PCI to printer port card very cheap. MRotate3 should work with it just fine.
An add on card (If you have a spare PCI slot) is fairly easy to install, you may have to install the drivers that come with it.
Here is a post I did a while back over in Software Forum. Near the end of the post I show the printer port card I bought for around 10 bucks and tested with MRotate:

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=94350.0

You will still need a drive. The secret drive (if you are using the secret motor) is pretty reasonably priced and will connect right to the printer port on the add-on pci card.

I'm not sure I would power the motor off the motherboard case fan header, unless you mean the molex connectors that come from the power supply. Im talking about the white plastic plugs that plug into the hard drive and CD rom.
These may power the motor, if it is a small one.
If the motor shuts down your computer when it turns, it is probably drawing too much current. If this happens, disconnect the motor, unplug the computer from the wall socket for a few seconds to reset the power supply. If this does happen, you will have to use another power supply for the motor.
I am just about to post some pics of using a toggle switch for a drive over in the tutorial Im putting together, if you really must go with manual rotation for now.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #6 on: March 10, 2011, 05:37:03 pm »
Good points. I think I will just do the manual rotation with a switch on top of my cab. What you posted in the other thread is EXACTLY what I am looking for with the limiting switches. As much as I like the software control, I'm just uncertain it will work with hyperspin. If I get the manual going properly and build up some confidence then maybe I will approach the software interface. I really want to use it, just too many "black box" things in my head right now. There's a lot to think about in building the perfect cab for oneself.

Your diagrams are perfect. I completely understand it much better now. Keep them coming!

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #7 on: March 13, 2011, 11:05:38 pm »
   If the printer port has gone the way of the Buffalo, maybe a new way might be to use the Arduino (or one of the many clones). The internet community has really come alive to support just about any project you could think of using these powerful devices. I'm sure that an application for rotating monitors exists for the right mind.

   http://www.arduino.cc/


 Cornchip.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2011, 01:13:31 am »

USB could be interesting. I wonder if I could use it to give just a continuous signal? The way my monitor is set up, that is all I need. It would then just switch a relay on or off. Relay on would be vertical, relay off horizontal (or vice versa)



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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #9 on: March 16, 2011, 09:38:57 am »

USB could be interesting. I wonder if I could use it to give just a continuous signal? The way my monitor is set up, that is all I need. It would then just switch a relay on or off. Relay on would be vertical, relay off horizontal (or vice versa)



Check out this thread, using a selector switch to manually change the monitor orientation.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=110207.40

If you dont want to use a H drive, it can be done with relays.
I have a relay exmple on here somewhere, I can find the thread and post a link if you want me to.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #10 on: March 16, 2011, 06:06:45 pm »
I am still planning on trying this. I am waiting for the parts to arrive. Once I have everything built I will do a "mock-up" and post the results.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #11 on: March 18, 2011, 01:31:29 am »

USB could be interesting. I wonder if I could use it to give just a continuous signal? The way my monitor is set up, that is all I need. It would then just switch a relay on or off. Relay on would be vertical, relay off horizontal (or vice versa)



Check out this thread, using a selector switch to manually change the monitor orientation.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=110207.40

If you dont want to use a H drive, it can be done with relays.
I have a relay exmple on here somewhere, I can find the thread and post a link if you want me to.

OH, I already use a switch:





It self parks using this circuit. Therefore to go fully automatic using the vert/hor list from mame would only entail two signals: ON for one orientation, and OFF for the other (if I add a relay)



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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #12 on: March 18, 2011, 06:15:26 am »
Im pretty sure you can get one signal off the RS232 port without any pic chips or anything else. It will have to turn on a transistor that then turns on the relay.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #13 on: March 18, 2011, 11:39:15 am »
DannyGalaga,

How do you control the speed of rotation?

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #14 on: March 18, 2011, 11:22:00 pm »
DannyGalaga,

How do you control the speed of rotation?

Everyones all hung up on stepper motors and stuff nowadays. How did they do ANYTHING in the days before  :D

The serious answer though involves the same. Good old fashioned gearing to the right speed and end stops. In my case, because it's only a 15" monitor in a cocktail cab, the microswitches are strong enough to be the end stops (",)


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #15 on: March 19, 2011, 07:22:10 am »
Well, in the stepper motors defense: With software you can set speed up and slow down points and stop points, you can also adjust the angle of the monitor easily through software. (No fiddling with the switches until it is just right).
Now I do believe that simple is better, but to be automatic (which you got to admit is way cooler), you need to get a bit more sophisticated.
And to be able to control the speed you need to run is a lot easier than figuring out the gearing before hand, plus it is a lot simpler.
And also, gearing (belts, pulleys, gears, whatever) takes up precious real estate space in the cabinet, and can produce more noise. (Case in point my first setup.)
Im not knocking your setup Danny, as a matter of fact I think it is fantastic, I guess Im just trying to defend the guys out there that are making "rotating a monitor" a work of art in itself. And exploring ways to do this is a great learning experience.
 ;)

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #16 on: March 19, 2011, 10:39:21 am »
For me gearing the thing seemed more complicated. I mean what gears, at what distance? How do you mount them? I'd sure love to see a pic of this. I guess it just depends on what skill you have.  :afro:

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #17 on: March 20, 2011, 10:51:55 pm »

I'm not knocking anyones project, that's for sure. For large monitors, you'd definitely want to be able to decelerate before getting to the end. Although I probably would have used some sort of dampener at the end stops instead. For me, what I've done is the simplest way possible. And it just so happens ( I didn't plan it this way) it would be the simplest system out there to 'fully' automate with software, since all it needs to be fully automated is a relay (and I guess a transistor for the relay) and a signal that is either on, or off. This has all come about because I am useless with software  ;D

If you look here,

http://dannygalaga.com/page3.htm

Scroll to 8th April and see what I've done. You can see how I've made the switches adjustable. And the gearing just happened to work out. I think the first disk I made was that one! It's very easy, without math, to get in the ballpark. It could actually stand to be a few mm larger in diameter though because as the motor has gotten older, it's getting harder to turn. I might pull it apart and regrease it.

I definitely am not knocking stepper motors. I have a soft spot for them. In trade school one day, the lecturer was talking about stepper motors and he suddenly had an epiphany. He went and grabbed an old alternator with exposed diodes, stuck it in the test bench and turned it into a crude stepper by manually pulsing the fields in succession. Although I was understanding what he was saying before, all of a sudden it made perfect sense to everyone that day. If only high school were that fun and impromptu  :)


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #18 on: March 21, 2011, 07:16:23 am »
I remember a lot of fun back in the school days. Every kid should stay in school, it really gets more fun as you progress.

Danny, if you are thinking of using relays for your setup, I have  a few ideas I can toss at ya.

If you have a printer port on your computer, you could even use MRotate to do it, but it might take one small relay and another larger one that can handle the current on your motor. (And transistors or a solenoid driver chip to turn on the relays.)
Or better yet, a chip (leave the rest up to you) that can latch and unlatch your motor relay.
One signal on the printer port turns on the relay, another signal turns it off.
Use Rotate Horizontal output to turn relay on and rotate vertical output to turn it off (in MRotate3).
It will be fun to see what you come up with.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #19 on: March 21, 2011, 09:36:11 am »
I remember a lot of fun back in the school days. Every kid should stay in school, it really gets more fun as you progress.

Danny, if you are thinking of using relays for your setup, I have  a few ideas I can toss at ya.

If you have a printer port on your computer, you could even use MRotate to do it, but it might take one small relay and another larger one that can handle the current on your motor. (And transistors or a solenoid driver chip to turn on the relays.)
Or better yet, a chip (leave the rest up to you) that can latch and unlatch your motor relay.
One signal on the printer port turns on the relay, another signal turns it off.
Use Rotate Horizontal output to turn relay on and rotate vertical output to turn it off (in MRotate3).
It will be fun to see what you come up with.

The motor only draws maybe an amp at most, I just realised I could probably keep it even simpler and use a transistor only (",)


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #20 on: March 21, 2011, 11:50:53 am »
What motor are you using? Where did you get it from?

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #21 on: March 21, 2011, 05:35:20 pm »
The motor only draws maybe an amp at most, I just realised I could probably keep it even simpler and use a transistor only (",)

You will probably need an H drive (4 power transistors and 4 switch transistors.)
You could get away with just two power transistors, but you will need a dual power supply.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #22 on: March 22, 2011, 02:35:13 am »
The motor only draws maybe an amp at most, I just realised I could probably keep it even simpler and use a transistor only (",)

You will probably need an H drive (4 power transistors and 4 switch transistors.)
You could get away with just two power transistors, but you will need a dual power supply.

God yes, I think so linearly! I think of one thing, and forget the other. So amps wise a transistor is fine, but the simplest way to flip/flop for my cab is a relay. How much current does the printer port output with your system? How much for the USB? Only signal-sized outputs? A few milliamps? there are some really small mechanical relays on the market which might just work without amplifying the signal. Otherwise, it's what you said originally- a transistor driving the relay.


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #23 on: March 22, 2011, 06:44:39 am »
Printer port is good for 10-20 MA. (Most likely 10-15).
Usb is good for maximum 500 ma, and sometimes it is only good for 100 MA, so I highly suggest you do not try to directly drive a relay with these ports.

However there are drivers out there such as the ULN2823A
http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/120808/ALLEGRO/ULN2823A.html
that can drive a relay. The only drawback is that it inverts the signal (high from printer or usb port = low at relay), but this is ok for relays, just keep it in mind. They are good for up to 500 ma. But the above link says they have quit manufacturing the ULN2823A.

Another option would be to use the H Drive chip that sjbaines used on his project:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=107919
(No relays necessary except for degauss, if you need that function).

Last but certainly not least you can use an opto-isolator between the port and the relays.


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #24 on: March 22, 2011, 07:11:47 pm »
I threw together this circuit.
It is using the RS232 pin 7 (RTS) to turn on a small motor.
Opening the comm port causes RTS to go high, which turns on Q1 (a small power transistor) which turns on the motor.

Closing the comm port causes RTS to go low, which turns off the motor.

I have bread boarded this and it seems to be working fine. The only problem I can see right away is that if another program attempts to open the same comm port, may turn on the motor.

This could be your answer to using one relay to switch your motor the same way your DPDT switch is doing now.
Just substitute teh motor in the drawing with a relay coil.

EDIT: I changed the drawing to show an additional diode, D2.
The port when high is +12 VDC to ground. When it goes low it is -12 VDC to ground.
D2 keeps the -12 volts from the transistor. The transistor that I used doesnt mind this, but some may.

« Last Edit: March 26, 2011, 07:32:20 pm by DaOld Man »

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #25 on: March 25, 2011, 08:16:55 am »
I threw together this circuit.
It is using the RS232 pin 7 (RTS) to turn on a small motor.
Opening the comm port causes RTS to go high, which turns on Q1 (a small power transistor) which turns on the motor.

Closing the comm port causes RTS to go low, which turns off the motor.

I have bread boarded this and it seems to be working fine. The only problem I can see right away is that if another program attempts to open the same comm port, may turn on the motor.

This could be your answer to using one relay to switch your motor the same way your DPDT switch is doing now.
Just substitute teh motor in the drawing with a relay coil.



Cool! Now, just to be sure, the rs232 port is the one that looks like the monitor port, and is commonly next to the monitor port? I might have to download the mrotate thingo and have a fiddle (",)


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #26 on: March 25, 2011, 11:15:47 pm »
Yes, the RS232 comm port kinda looks like the monitor port, EXCEPT, the monitor port has 15 pins and is a female port, whereas the comm port has 9 pins and is a male port.

Mrotate will not work with the comm port, printer port only (until I finish the USB version).
But I think I can throw you together a comm port version, if you want.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #27 on: March 26, 2011, 12:09:45 pm »
Here is a simple circuit I have come up with using the RS232.
This circuit is "dumb", which means the computer simply sends out signals to relays, it gets no feedback from your rig.
 A quick description:
CRM is a relay that can handle the current of your motor. It must be a 3PDT (two DT contacts take the place of your toggle switch, the remaining DT contact serves as a normally open contact to latch the relay on).
CRS is a smaller relay (or it can be the same as CRM), it only needs one normally closed contact.
CRS is used to turn off CRM.
Q1 and Q2 are TIP120 NPN transistors. R1 and R2 are 1 K ohm resistors. D1 and D2 are 1 amp diodes.
Q1's base connects to pin 4 of the 9 pin Rs232 comm port. (through the r1)
Q2's base connects to pin 7 of the port (through r2)
Pin 5 of the port connects to both transistors emitters and to the power supply's ground.

Here's how it works:
A high on pin 4 turns on Q1, which turns on CRM. The normally open contact of CRM N.O. closes, which then bypasses Q1, holding CRM on (this is called latching or sealing).
When pin4 goes low, CRM remains on.

When pin 7 goes high, Q2 is turned on, which turns on CRS. When CRS turns on, it's contact, CRS N.C. opens, which un-latches CRM. CRM turns off.

If both pin 4 and pin 7 are high, CRM is off.

I can write you a quick program that can do this using the same command arguments that MRotate would used.

There is a major concern about rotating your monitor like this, and it may not concern you at all.
CRM always turns off when you turn off your arcade.

Say for instance when CRM is turned on your monitor turns to horizontal.
Now whenever you power up your arcade, CRM will be off, so your monitor will immediately turn to vertical.
Your front end wont know this and it may already be orientated for horizontal, so your screen will look funny.
There are ways around this, but if you keep going, you may as well break down and use a H drive on the printer port.
:)

EDIT: I changed the drawing to show two additional diodes, D3 and D4.
Pin 4 when high is +12 VDC to ground. When it goes low it is -12 VDC to ground.
Pin 7 is +7-10 VDC when high and -7-10 VDC when low.
D3 and D4 keep the negative currents from the transistors. The transistors that I used dont mind this, but some may.
Pay close attention to this if you are using an electronic drive.
An easy fix for this would be to change the transistors to opto isolators, or solid state relays.
« Last Edit: March 26, 2011, 07:37:13 pm by DaOld Man »

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #28 on: March 27, 2011, 01:06:46 am »

I think I'll wait for your usb version  :)


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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #29 on: March 27, 2011, 01:20:49 am »

I think I'll wait for your usb version  :)

Awww, I already had a MRotateDG version just about finished!
:)
I think you will be happier with the ability to fully control the motor from the software.
But if anyone wants to use the comm port instead of USB or printer port, just know that it can be done.
And by using the PWM module that DNA Dan came up with, it can be done with relays and also still have speed control.
I cut my teeth on relays way back in the 70's, so I have a special place for them in my heart.
But solid state devices such as transistors are much cheaper, more versatile, and more efficient than relays.
They just aint as simple.

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Re: MRotateUSB
« Reply #30 on: March 27, 2011, 01:51:20 am »
Ok, back to my USB version.
I have decided to go with the USB IO kit offered by electronics-diy.com

http://www.electronics-diy.com/USB_IO_Board.php

This board is pretty easy to put together. It only has a few parts and comes with everything you need except the usb cord. If you dont have a cord that fits the socket they send, you can cut one end off an old usb cord and solder it in place of the socket they send with the kit.

This board has 16 pins that can be configured as inputs or outputs.
MRotateUSB (final name is pending) will allow you to configure the pins from the setup mode.
MrotateUSB will allow you to configure it based on your drive needs, just like previous versions did with the printer port.

Here is a quick and dirty diagram of how you could hook up an H drive with an enable (such as the secret motor drive).


EDIT: I felt the need to clarify something. I mentioned that the board comes with everything you need. Dont let this be misleading. This board comes with all parts needed to construct the USB IO device.
You will still need additional components such as motor, motor drive, power supply for motor, limit switches, pull up and pull down resistors to complete your project.
You will also need solder and a good soldering iron for the IO board. it is a kit that you have to put together.
« Last Edit: March 27, 2011, 02:59:20 am by DaOld Man »

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #31 on: March 30, 2011, 07:56:04 am »
Hi DaOldMan,
great to see rotating Monitor Setups will come more common :-)

In my pinball project I am using a ready assembled Dual-H-Bridge to drive the motor
It is using the L298N Dual H Bridge it can drive 4,8-46V and 2A load
I think it will be easy to connect it to your PIC USB Board and it can driven via PWM too...

http://www.wolfsoft.de/shop/product_info.php/products_id/14869/

« Last Edit: March 30, 2011, 08:10:33 am by wolfsoft »
http://www.blog.wolfsoft.de for arcade tutorials
http://www.wolfsoft.de for our website

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #32 on: March 30, 2011, 06:17:51 pm »
Looks like it could interface quite easily with the usbio board.
Thanks Wolfsoft.

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #33 on: March 31, 2011, 04:05:18 am »
Hi DaOld Man,

if you need one free sample of the DUAL Brigde. No Problem!
Please send me your adress via private mail.

Thanks
Klaus
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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #34 on: May 03, 2011, 10:33:24 am »
L298 Stepper driver is also available from Ebay for $15.88 (free international shipping):

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/L298N-Stepper-Motor-Driver-Controller-Board-Module-DC-/270725603284?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0880dfd4#ht_2987wt_948

Potentially cheaper auctions starting at $0.01 and 4.99 shipping.

Cheap enough if you only require 1, personally I am still looking for cheaper stepper drivers, either building my own partly or completely, depending on what parts are used.

I am currently designing several CNC machines, and although prepared to pay decent money (200) for 6 x 4.2A drivers for my 8'x4' 4/5 axis wood machine that will probably cost me 1500 including all  motors and electronics. However I object to paying 35+ for a 4 axis board for a desktop machine or foam wire cutter with less than 200 in parts including motors.

I am also looking to build a MAME cabinet with a rotating monitor - hence my interest in this thread.

I originally designed a cocktail cabinet and then decided to go with something more like Kneivel's "Woody" but with a rotating monitor and maybe even rotating controls (still undecided on that part).

I am looking at a slightly different method of rotating the monitor, that I do not believe anyone else has tried yet - using a car electric/power window mechanism and a lazy susan bearing, the window winder mechanism providing 90 degrees of rotation by pushing on a corner of the monitor at about a 45 degree angle, still need to mock it all up to see what other parts may be required.

The mechanism I am using has geared rotation that is turned into straight line movement by levers/arms, (scissor action) I will probably not use all of these "arms" but will need the attachment point on the monitor board to be able to pivot.

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #35 on: May 06, 2011, 04:37:32 pm »
L298 Stepper driver is also available from Ebay for $15.88 (free international shipping):

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/L298N-Stepper-Motor-Driver-Controller-Board-Module-DC-/270725603284?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0880dfd4#ht_2987wt_948

Potentially cheaper auctions starting at $0.01 and 4.99 shipping.

Cheap enough if you only require 1, personally I am still looking for cheaper stepper drivers, either building my own partly or completely, depending on what parts are used.

I am currently designing several CNC machines, and although prepared to pay decent money (200) for 6 x 4.2A drivers for my 8'x4' 4/5 axis wood machine that will probably cost me 1500 including all  motors and electronics. However I object to paying 35+ for a 4 axis board for a desktop machine or foam wire cutter with less than 200 in parts including motors.

I am also looking to build a MAME cabinet with a rotating monitor - hence my interest in this thread.

I originally designed a cocktail cabinet and then decided to go with something more like Kneivel's "Woody" but with a rotating monitor and maybe even rotating controls (still undecided on that part).

I am looking at a slightly different method of rotating the monitor, that I do not believe anyone else has tried yet - using a car electric/power window mechanism and a lazy susan bearing, the window winder mechanism providing 90 degrees of rotation by pushing on a corner of the monitor at about a 45 degree angle, still need to mock it all up to see what other parts may be required.

The mechanism I am using has geared rotation that is turned into straight line movement by levers/arms, (scissor action) I will probably not use all of these "arms" but will need the attachment point on the monitor board to be able to pivot.

Welcome to the forum and the hobby!
Looking forward to seeing how you rotate your monitor.

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #36 on: January 02, 2012, 05:48:49 pm »
Hello DaOld Man,

any news about the Mrotate USB?
I have the Solarbotics setup (GearMotor 3 + SecretMotorDriver) and this USB IO kit http://www.svcommerce.it/scheda.JBPIC.html and I'd like to try the USB way before the parallel port way...  ;D

Thanks in advance, and sorry for my bad english.

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #37 on: January 02, 2012, 09:39:52 pm »
The Mrotate USB project has been put on hold, due other things in life.
However, I am anxious to get back on this project. Im glad to see some new interest in this.
That usb io kit website is not in english, so I need some time to think on it. (Sorry I only know english.)
How is this kit controlled? Is it by usb comm port or is it by script?

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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #38 on: January 03, 2012, 04:41:13 am »
Thanks for the reply  ;)
The USB IO board is similar if not identical to your 'reference' kit. It has a bootloader onboard but not the firmware (it can be used for Playstation3 jailbreak...).
In the meantime I'll go with the parallel port!


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Re: MRotateUSB (USB board is chosen)
« Reply #39 on: January 03, 2012, 08:38:55 pm »
OK, you gave me a jump start ataruzzolo, I definitely need to get back on this project, but it might be a while, I will keep you in mind when Im ready for a tester.