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| Price for an Asteroids cocktail arcade? |
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| RayB:
When the game is running, are the vectors stable? Look for what looks like a "wave" going through the screen, or parts of graphics "shaking". Those are not good signs. Use it either as a bargaining angle, or just walk away if you are not comfortable with the idea of fixing the monitor one day. The hum as mentioned before is probably from the main big capacitor. It's a good idea to replace it. You'll be paying about $11 for a new one. I'd also rebuild the power / audio regulator just to feel it satisfied the game will last a good time longer. A rebuild kit is about $10. Those expenses, shipping of the parts and your time soldering can be another bargaining angle with the seller. (You know, point out the flaws, make a lower offer). I'd offer $300 as a start. If the monitor is exhibiting any of the things mentioned above, I wouldn't go above $350. It's a gamble. If the flyback in the monitor goes out, there are no new replacements. If the monitor is good, then set your limit higher. I'm not sure I'd spend $500 though, knowing I'll dump a minimum of $30 in "maintenance" parts to ensure it works for a good while more, and if the buttons are yellowed, there's more expense there, buying nice new ones. PS: What do you mean the monitor had a nice color? It's black & white. |
| Panman:
Ray, I did not see any squiggly lines anywhere on the screen. The spaceship, as well as the asteroids seemed as though they had a pretty good brightness still. The bullets that came out of the ship were bright as all hell too. I started to piece together price deductions to make an offer. Yesterday I found the decals for 45, but I can't find anywhere on the internet that sells replacement glass, if this is the case, then I'll have to have a custom piece of glass cut from some shop or something, I'm assuming that wouldn't be too cheap, haha. All together, it seems as though the initial maintenance would be around 150ish, of course as time passes I'llfind other things to replace/customize. I still have to get a peek at the insides too, I'll try to do that this week, that should be a great way to show that I'm serious in buying it. Is there anything specific I should be looking for on the insides, I've read about people having issues with boards that are burnt a little, or have black spots? Glad you all are taking the time to help. Lee P.S. Ray, that's why the word "color" is in parentheses, it was sarcasm, haha. |
| RayB:
Make sure you look inside with the power off. ;-) When you open it, the main board will be attached to the door. There is a wide connector on the right side. The area that burns is the right end of it (the end towards the guts of the machine). If you see burn marks there, you can point it out to the guy. I wouldn't disconnect or touch anything. He could blame you if anything broke. It looks to be in pretty good condition actually. The guy may think you are nitpicking. Offer $300 and meet in the middle at $400 tops. (Unless you REALLY love this game. Then the sky's the limit!!) |
| RayB:
PS: I just noticed those aren't the proper glass clips. ;-) Good reference thread: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=107874.msg1161776#new |
| SithMaster:
You found the decals at arcadeshop then, maybe? Thing is I keep reading how people find better prices locally for glass usually in the 20-40 range. So far I've found this for used glass but that really isn't what you want. I think the best bet is to get it local custom made. |
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