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Author Topic: Wide-Body Taito Classic: 1/12/12 UPDATE!! STENCILS!!  (Read 47409 times)

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Woodshop Flunky

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED 2/21 w/ CONTROL PANEL PORN!!
« Reply #40 on: February 22, 2011, 11:56:55 am »
I love the volcano pushbuttons!

Does anyone know of a source for these?

Complete mini arcade cabinet plans available.

mgb

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED 2/21 w/ CONTROL PANEL PORN!!
« Reply #41 on: February 22, 2011, 01:51:48 pm »
I love the volcano pushbuttons!

Does anyone know of a source for these?

Here are some repro cones. They may have the buttons somewhere on the site. I know I've seen some elsewhere but I can't remember where.
http://www.videogameparts.com/category.sc;jsessionid=A64A3650E0D54B1A50378DBCF31DB6F4.qscstrfrnt02?categoryId=22

Ram controls has them but I've heard some complaints around here about them.

VanillaGorilla

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED 2/21 w/ CONTROL PANEL PORN!!
« Reply #42 on: February 22, 2011, 02:02:38 pm »
quartearcade.com has them too, Good people over there. Arcadeshop.de has them in Europe. Todd from TNTamusements is selling a crapload of them on ebay right now too, A pair for 14.95 w/ free shipping.. you have many options currently, wasn't always the case. I even saw some NOS cherry's on Ebay for $30 a pair  :dizzy:

Epyx

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED 2/21 w/ CONTROL PANEL PORN!!
« Reply #43 on: February 22, 2011, 02:26:37 pm »
I love the CP setup...I am right handed but same setup for me:

Trackball in right hand and buttons with left
Joystick in left hand and buttons with right
Spinner in left hand and buttons with right

Perfect!  :cheers:
Last Project



Epyx Tutorials:
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emphatic

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED 2/21 w/ CONTROL PANEL PORN!!
« Reply #44 on: February 22, 2011, 05:10:34 pm »
The cones look delicious!  :cheers: I wonder about the bolts holding the trackball though, aren't they in the way at all?

VanillaGorilla

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED 2/21 w/ CONTROL PANEL PORN!!
« Reply #45 on: February 22, 2011, 05:43:00 pm »
Thanks Epyx...I'm a lefty, so thats where the layout comes from to some degree, but for the most part I was just trying to have controls in the same relative positioning as they were in the arcade originally. I know I'm 'breaking the law' with Tempest, but to be honest, as a lefty, this feels better. I also love Omega Race (not mention Temple of Apshai, man I miss that game) ;D

Emphatic - Not sure what they would be in the way of? You mean your hands? That is how the Maxi trackball was installed in the factory (Just take a look at an actual Missile Command or Atari Football). I originally had some really tiny-headed carriage bolts that I got from Bob Roberts, and they worked fine, I just thought the larger ones looked more 'accurate'. That aluminum frame assembly for the trackball is pretty hefty though too, and spinning that large ball creates a lot of force. I thought I might be dealing with a torque/bolt-loosening issue if I used the smaller ones, so away they went!

I could see where one might find them 'unattractive' since I managed to do away with any other bolts on the control panel...It might look cleaner if they were gone, and I could still go that route I suppose....I'll have to think about that one.

emphatic

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED 2/21 w/ CONTROL PANEL PORN!!
« Reply #46 on: February 22, 2011, 06:14:07 pm »
That is how the Maxi trackball was installed in the factory (Just take a look at an actual Missile Command or Atari Football).

That explains it well enough for me. Don't go changing for my sake.  ;D

javeryh

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED 2/21 w/ CONTROL PANEL PORN!!
« Reply #47 on: February 24, 2011, 05:14:00 pm »
Hey VG - do you think it would be possible to fit a 25" flat screen CRT in the Taito without modifying it?  I know you can get a 19" in there easily but I'd like a bigger screen if possible (without widening the cab!).   :cheers:

VanillaGorilla

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED 2/21 w/ CONTROL PANEL PORN!!
« Reply #48 on: February 24, 2011, 06:53:21 pm »
you'd be better off with a 19" 4:3 LCD, there are no 4:3 25" LCD's. A 16:10 or 16:9 25" LCD mounted horizontally will be SHORTER in height than the 19 incher.

VanillaGorilla

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED 2/21 w/ CONTROL PANEL PORN!!
« Reply #49 on: February 25, 2011, 10:44:19 pm »
Oh my god I found my grail!! I just bought an Atari 720 Degrees for $600!!!!!! Its a HUO in beautiful shape. I never saw one that was in this good of condition even back in the day. The stick will need a rebuild for sure, but other than that, it seems like a real peach. I'm beside myself. ;D

VanillaGorilla

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED 2/21 w/ CONTROL PANEL PORN!!
« Reply #50 on: March 01, 2011, 01:41:49 pm »
Working on control panel 2, 8-button fighter layout. I got some IL clear pushbuttons from paradisearcadeshop.com, along with the IL-lumination RGB LED modules, just thought I'd throw a few pics up, because its a sweet set up, HIGHLY RECOMMENDED:
« Last Edit: March 01, 2011, 01:44:22 pm by VanillaGorilla »

VanillaGorilla

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED 2/21 w/ CONTROL PANEL PORN!!
« Reply #51 on: March 01, 2011, 01:47:47 pm »
I also got my Rollie leaf switches from arcadeshop.de. Again, a product I've been wanting to buy for ages, but no one ever had them domestically (US). I have a parts chubby right now...




These had to be modified to fit with the LED assemblies, more details later.
« Last Edit: March 01, 2011, 01:52:08 pm by VanillaGorilla »

mgb

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Pretty lights, I like.  :o

VanillaGorilla

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ok, I've been asked by a few people what I did to modify the leafswitch assembly; A picture is worth a thousand words, so....




You basically want to remove the existing bottom flange, and some material from the backside to allow clearance for the rgb module. Its important to round the edge of the forward 'leg' of the switch, so that when you insert it into the button body, it will clear the IL-lumination rgb assembly, otherwise, just get out your exacto blade, and start cuttin!
« Last Edit: March 16, 2011, 11:54:19 am by VanillaGorilla »

VanillaGorilla

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There is no way to effectively express in words, how much better than microswitches these leaf switches are. They register so many more button presses, its kind of unbelievable.

Play a game of track and field, and you'll understand. I'm breaking ALL of my previous records on first play with these.  ;D If you like Joust, there is no other option. You cannot play that game as it is intended to be played without leaf switches, period.

I also love Zaxxon; Back in the day, I always remember being able to fire so rapidly that the green laser emitting from the front of the ship would be an uninterrupted, continuous 'laser' of shots. With microswitches, I could never achieve this (more like a series of dashes).. Now with these leaf switches in, Zaxxon plays like I remember it playing. My scores have increased on FIRST PLAY with every game I've tested so far.

I believe this distinction was lost on a generation that never had the opportunity to play with leaf switch buttons. Thats a shame, because they are so obviously superior, its almost a joke.  :applaud: :applaud:

The advantages are:

Faster actuation
Basically silent
Adjustable
AUTHENTIC FEEL
easier wiring (They are ALWAYS normally open [NO])
They will last virtually forever

Cons:
Slightly more expensive than GOOD microswitches, but their longevity makes up for this.
Requires a little more room under the control panel.
Will require maintenance as time passes ( spacing adjustments, cleaning)

If you dont install these, at least for your primary fire/jump buttons, you are really missing out on what classic arcade games are SUPPOSED to play like. Your scores are also suffering as a byproduct, I would bet.

Options:

Arcadeshop.de carries these
Bryan @ paradisearcade.com told me he will be stocking these again in the next 2 weeks.
Randy @ groovygamegear.com has his own creative implementation of leaf switches with a modern button style.
Bob Roberts has authentic 'old school' buttons and leaf switch holders, although most are for a metal control panel thickness (but not all). Buy something from bob, just to restore your faith in humanity. He is the genuine article, and deserves your business. Cross Shipping!!

GO BUY SOME!!!!
« Last Edit: March 16, 2011, 11:51:56 am by VanillaGorilla »

BurgerKingDiamond

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so I can just switch out the microswitches from my Happ buttons with these? Are they as good as "real" leaf switches?
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drventure

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@Vanilla

So, the leaf switch assemblies... can they be swapped into a standard Happ pushbutton to replace the microswitches?

I might want to try a couple, as you suggest, for the 3 primary buttons on P1-2. I don't think I'd have space underneath to replace them all (plus it's a 4 player CP, ugh!)

VanillaGorilla

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Quote
So, the leaf switch assemblies... can they be swapped into a standard Happ pushbutton to replace the microswitches?

Yeah, they will just swap out a microswitch. The only reason I had to modify them was to provide clearance for the led's. If you have regular Happ/Suzo or IL buttons, they will just pop right in.

Quote
Are they as good as "real" leaf switches?

I'd say the only difference in feel between these and  a 'real' leaf switch button, is in the button plunger.  The modern button plungers are shorter than old school buttons, so there is less travel. That would be the only difference in 'feel'; the travel. Otherwise IMHO, very, very close; as close a syou're gonna get.

As a direct swap-out replacement for a microswitch in a modern Happ-style button, its a no brainer. Buy em.

If you have the luxury/resources of putting in original style buttons with original style leaf switches, Well that would be 'truly authentic'. Theres always going to be a trade-off somewhere. I could not light old-school buttons with modern-day rgb led modules, so....

BurgerKingDiamond

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cool. I think I'll try these because as you noted, Track and Field just sucks to play with micro switch buttons.
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emphatic

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Damn it. Now I'm gonna spend all of today thinking about leaf switches.  :banghead: :dizzy: :laugh2: I'm very picky about my control panel parts, and I've tried almost every brand possible to find what I consider the "best stuff". I've yet to try leaf switch buttons though.  :-\ I almost ordered 4 of these from Arcadeshop.de earlier today, but I have a hard time parting with my Seimitsu buttons. If only I had more panels. Oh, wait...  :afro:

ids

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED 2/21 w/ CONTROL PANEL PORN!!
« Reply #60 on: March 17, 2011, 03:41:41 pm »


I recently got the same LED's from paradise...I though you only needed a single ground and a single +5 line...???
(Obviously I've not done a lot with them yet)


Great work, btw!

VanillaGorilla

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Thanks ids! You are pretty much correct... you connect 1 or more of the red,green, and blue wires to ground (depending which color you want out of it red+blue = purple, etc), and the white wire goes to +5. If you are using an LED controller like the LEDWiz, you connect each of the colored leads (cathode) to the screw terminals, and the white lead (anode) to +5v. 3 terminals are required per RGB led module.... Randy has posted some good info on this site describing how to wire up to his controller, so I wont repeat that here...in fact I may have the anode and cathode backwards in my description here, but I'm at work and can't confirm!
« Last Edit: March 17, 2011, 03:55:14 pm by VanillaGorilla »

ids

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Sorry, my bad - I got single colour ones  :-[.  Thanks for the response, however.

Keep up the great work!

BurgerKingDiamond

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Damn it. Now I'm gonna spend all of today thinking about leaf switches.  :banghead: :dizzy: :laugh2: I'm very picky about my control panel parts, and I've tried almost every brand possible to find what I consider the "best stuff". I've yet to try leaf switch buttons though.  :-\ I almost ordered 4 of these from Arcadeshop.de earlier today, but I have a hard time parting with my Seimitsu buttons. If only I had more panels. Oh, wait...  :afro:

have you seen these?

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=365

I just got a new cab that is in need of stick replacement. I think I'm gonna try these out. I love me LS-32 that I put in my candy but these are looking pretty nice. I hope they'll work well for shmups, as this cab is another vert with a nice HUGE 27" monitor

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VanillaGorilla

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God I love jumbo vertical monitors. Thats gonna have to be the next cab project. :drool:

Quote
have you seen these?

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=365

I have seen em, only thing that I wasn't so hot about was the use of a spring instead of a rubber grommet. I have 6 wico 8-ways waiting for homes, so I will use those up first before I go searching for alternatives.

 I'm 41, so Shmups were never 'really' my time period, although I do like them a lot, I figured microswitch joysticks (sanwa/happ comps/ et al.) would be the hot number there.
« Last Edit: March 18, 2011, 03:47:55 pm by VanillaGorilla »

BurgerKingDiamond

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God I love jumbo vertical monitors. Thats gonna have to be the next cab project. :drool:

Quote
have you seen these?

http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=365

I have seen em, only thing that I wasn't so hot about was the use of a spring instead of a rubber grommet. I have 6 wico 8-ways waiting for homes, so I will use those up first before I go searching for alternatives.

 I'm 41, so Shmups were never 'really' my time period, although I do like them a lot, I figured microswitch joysticks (sanwa/happ comps/ et al.) would be the hot number there.

yeah, I think the most popular stick for shmups is the LS-32 (Seimitsu) which does use microswitches. I had many people recommend it to me when I was upgrading another cab, and I like it alot. The Happ comps don't work that well. The good thing about a Seimitsu is that it has a balltop and it's low profile helps  you to use a grip with your fingers more than your whole palm, which is good for precise movements. I'm intrigued by a leaf switch stick though, and since it has a balltop I'm willing to take the chance on it. If it's not up the task I know someone else will take it off my hands.

the real question is when will I actually get around to it....
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DataWest

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I question about your joystick mount.

So you routed away the depth of the aluminum, routed all the way through the wood the width of the joystick plate, then glued the aluminum panel to the wood, then drilled through the aluminum and mounted the joystick plate under it?

VanillaGorilla

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thats basically correct. You want to route through and allow some 'wiggle room' for your switches, wiring etc to have enough clearance.

DataWest

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Ok thanks...just wanted to make sure I understood the process.

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It's been a few months, is this one still kickin'?

VanillaGorilla

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Yes! Women and weather have slowed things for the last few months, as I was waiting for it to get warm enough to paint. Funny you should ask, today of all days, it was the first day I've played it in a few months. I'm telling you, there must be something out there in the universe projecting energy or something. Hope to have updates over the next few weeks...

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BTW... we FINALLY got the Rollie's domestically!  Post more pics when you get this moving!

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED w/ 4.5" Atari trackball re-build
« Reply #73 on: August 05, 2011, 11:58:08 pm »
Next I cut the top MDF panel @ 26.5" wide x 10" deep. I then cut the 13x13 aluminum panel to the required dimensions to provide clearance for mounting bolts, and the wheel encoders that stick out of the sides of the main trackball frame assembly. I also abraded the surface with a #40 grit sandpaper to provide something for the bondo to bite into:


 
Harbor Freight to the rescue once more, this time its the $24 trim router! I used this to rough out the opening in the panel, and provide a recessed mounting area:



I used a contact adhesive to attach the aluminum to the MDF, and then countersunk pan head screws along the perimeter:



Then, a judicious application of Bondo filler:



...as the egg timer starts, and we wait for it to dry, so we can begin to sand it out! I was careful to save my scraps of aluminum, as I can use them for mounting other small items, and maybe a joystick or 2. ;)

What type of bit and brand did you use for the recessed trackball on your trim router im thinking of buying that router tomorrow

VanillaGorilla

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It was the cheap ass laminate trim router from harbor freight. Cost about 28 bucks if I remember correctly. I just used a flush trim bit with a shoulder bearing. If I can, Ill try to take a pic tomorrow. Right now I'm fairly inebriated, but I'll do my best to make good in the morning! :)

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VG-

Thanks for the pics of the Rollie leaf mod. I'm going to be doing the same exact thing this weekend.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED 2/20 LIGHTED ATARI VOLCANO BUTTONS!!
« Reply #76 on: August 06, 2011, 11:40:45 am »


This one is for the classics mostly. I will be doing a 2 player fighter layout next, with a couple of semitsu LS 32's, or sanwa JLF's, and 8 buttons per player. After that, I am going to do a 360 degree steering wheel set up.

What will be your approach for the wiring of your swappable CPs? Will they each have their own interface(s), or will they all share the same ones? If they will be sharing interfaces, I would love to see your harnesses. This thread keeps getting bumped and I'm really wanting to see some new stuff. ;D

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I'm doing separate interfaces. The fighter panel is using the cheap 2 player interface from Paradise. For less than 30 bucks each interface, its cheaper than doing the logistics of a single universal interface. I've done that before, and I wasnt too thrilled with it once all was said and done. Also, all my spinner/TB controls are on one panel only, so that keeps complexity/cost to a minimum.

 I'm going to start cab disassembly today so I can stencil and paint the cab sides. Progress pics will be forthcoming by next weekend!

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What about your LEDs (fighter panel RGB buttons, marquee, and volcano buttons)? Will only the RGB LEDs be hooked to an LED controller and the others have constant power? Also, I'm assuming you plan on using an authentic arcade steering wheel?

Edit: actually did some reading and found the answer to the first question. What LED controller (if any) will you be using for your RGBs?
« Last Edit: August 06, 2011, 02:45:44 pm by Nephasth »

mytymaus007

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Re: Wide-Body Taito Classic: UPDATED w/ 4.5" Atari trackball re-build
« Reply #79 on: August 06, 2011, 03:59:29 pm »
Added p1 & p2 start Atari Volcano switches!! I got 2 tall and 2 short ones off of ebay for $14. They're still really grungy, as the macro shows  :o



They'll get completely cleaned up in the end, but for now they're good enough for a test fit. I used a scrap from the trackball mounting plate, to recess mount these as well.



I bondo'd the mount into the control panel, routed and recessed like the maxi. Then I wired up the required resistors in line with the 5v lead. Heat shrink for protection, and a quick connect, just like they were done originally.






Mounted and test-lit:



SWEET! I cannot express how much pleasure it brings me to have these buttons. They just scream arcade to me; They're like the cherry (switches) on top of the sundae!




I read that you used a hole saw for cutting holes in the aluminum but how did you cut it for the joystick and buttons