Can we turn this Star Shack back into a Star Castle?

[Spyridon]

I can't let Frizz take all the Star Castle glory...

I picked up a Star Castle earlier this week.  

The Good:  Well, it's a complete Star Castle






It's currently non working.  When you power it up, you get a vertical line on the monitor, but the game does play blind.


The Bad:  

Cab has some bad water damage on the bottom

[Spyridon]

Cab is covered in dust so let's clean it up and see what we are dealing with.

The monitor easily folds down so you can access the screen.  Just remove two wing nuts.


Look at that dirt


But the monitor overlay and bezel clean up nice

Some scratches on the plexi glass, but not that noticeable and the artwork in perfect

The control panel cleans up pretty well also

Except for a few cigarette burns it would almost be perfect. 

Let's look at the side art



From a distance it looks really good, but upon closer inspection

You can see part of it starting to bubble and everything is yellowed

Moving down the cab, I originally thought this cab must have been in a pizza place and the discoloration is from grease


After trying to scrub it off, I realized that someone had brushed on a thick coat of some type of clear coat.  The clear coat has yellow over time and is as hard as a rock.  I think you can hit this thing with a sledge hammer and not dent it that stuff is so thick

[drventure]

Nice score. I loved star castle back in the day.

[Spyridon]

I'm looking for opinions on the best way to fix the cab.  

Option 1:  Cut off the bottom 18 inches all around the cab and replace with new wood.  
Pros:  Keeps most of the cab original and preserves the side art which is in decent shape
Cons: A bit of work to match the old and new wood.  The cab has a nasty smell to it (so much so that I may not be able to keep it in the basement) and this option may still retain that smell.  

Option 2:  Completely replace the entire sides, front, and bottom with new wood  
Pros:  An almost brand new cab that will look really good and we get rid of the bad smell
Cons: Still a bit of work to cut the wood correctly.  Side art is not retained.  Currently no reproduction side art exists, but it is being worked on and an update is expected soon.

Option 3:  Give up and part out the game  
Pros:  Easy to do
Cons: Kill a Classic Star Castle

I'm leaning towards Option 2 (and Option 3 isn't an option)

[Spyridon]

Because I don't have a heated garage, the decision on the cab has some time as I won't be able to do any of that until Spring at the earliest.  In the mean time, let's see if we can get the game working.

So the current state is the game powers up and plays blind with a vertical line on the screen.  First thought is we have a horizontal deflection issue.  But before we even look at the monitor let's power it up and check the voltages from the power supply.

Pop!

Hmmm, before I can even get to the power supply, everything just went black.  From reading up on Cinematronics games, I know they have two breakers and a fuse on the power supply and that it is typical for the breakers to pop when you have a monitor issue.  Let's take a look at the power supply..



Okay, I don't see any breakers here.  Let's look at a photo of what is supposed to be in there


Looking closer at my power supply, I can see that the two breakers (one for +25v and one for -25v) have been replaced by fuses

And indeed, one of the fuses is blown.  I don't have any 3A fuses in stock and I don't want to keep replacing them, so I will look to replace these with breakers.

My initial search didn't turn up a matching replacement, but I did find these.

Not the same type, but I think I can rig it to fit.  If I can modify these to fit, they may work better as the button will actually pop so you can see which has blown.  The originals didn't give you any indication, you just had to push them to reset

[yotsuya]

Looking forward to seeing what you do with this!

[Spyridon]

Okay, let's take a look at the monitor to see what's going on there.

A close inspection shows that resistor R119 has fried.


Reading the The Cinematronics Vector Monitor FAQ and Repair Guide, I can see that R119 is associated with the horizontal transistors.  This is good as it confirms my initial thoughts.  According to the guide, this is a 47 ohm 1W resistor and should be replaced with a 47 ohm 5W resistor.  The 5W resistor is the big ceramic type like the one to the right of R119 in the pic above.  Because of the size, it will need to be mounted on the underside of the board.  The FAQ recommends that R118, R119, R218, and R219 all be replaced in this way. 

I'll confirm when I pull the monitor, but one or more of the deflection transistors is probably bad which is what caused this resistor to burn up.  The FAQ recommends replacing these with the 2N3716/2N3792 pairs that are used in WG 6100 monitors.

William Boucher has done a great website detailing his restoration of a Star Castle.  Tons of good information here including a parts list of recommend replacement parts for just about every part on the monitor and PCB.


Okay, time to start ordering parts.

[Spyridon]

Okay, the cab isn't going to make it.  I've never had to destroy a cab before, but this one is beyond repair.  The smell from it was so bad I had to get it out of the house.  I stripped everything out of it and will setup a test bench to work on it during the winter.

The cab was moved to the garage and I will use it as a template to cut a new one.

[yotsuya]

Any idea what was causing the smell?

[opt2not]

Any idea what was causing the smell?

Wood rot due to moisture exposure. Probably some mold going on in there too. Not the type of stuff you wanna be smelling, let alone breathing.
Poor Star Castle. That water damage is pretty brutal.

 Hehe, I like the picture of the gutted cabinet. Pacman looking through the coin door hole, like he's rolling his eyes thinking "oh here we go with another crazy resto!".

I'm leaning towards Option 2 (and Option 3 isn't an option)

Agreed. Though if you dismantle the cabinet panels, you shouldn't have too much trouble template-cutting the pieces. At least you can save the top portion and monitor mount area of the cabinet. 

How about the bezel? Got any tips on restoring scratched plexi?  I'm taking notes for my Robotron cabaret, the bezel plexi has a few scratches in it that annoys me.

[RetroACTIVE]

That cab seems primitive enough that a re-fab would be pretty straight forward... it doesn't look like there is any channel routing on the insides... just your basic block/glue/staple.

I would love to have a StarCastle template... I'd cut one and put one together just on hope I'd find a scrap heap of a machine someday.  Most StarCastles are in such crappy shape that a total rebuild is usually the best option.

Side art, well that's another story... I firmly believe that it will get done one day... heck look at some of the side art that has been repro'd... StarCastle is definitely beyond due for it.

[Spyridon]

That cab seems primitive enough that a re-fab would be pretty straight forward... it doesn't look like there is any channel routing on the insides... just your basic block/glue/staple. 

True, but wood working isn't my specialty.  I think I can do it.  I've also found a local business with a cnc machine.  I'm trying to reach the owner about him cutting some cabs for me.

I would love to have a StarCastle template... I'd cut one and put one together just on hope I'd find a scrap heap of a machine someday.  Most StarCastles are in such crappy shape that a total rebuild is usually the best option.

You can have my scraps when I'm done

Side art, well that's another story... I firmly believe that it will get done one day... heck look at some of the side art that has been repro'd... StarCastle is definitely beyond due for it.

Yeah, I've spoken to the guy working on it and it will get done.  May be a few months but that is fine with my timing.  Wort case, I'll scan mine and get it done.

[Spyridon]

How about the bezel? Got any tips on restoring scratched plexi?  I'm taking notes for my Robotron cabaret, the bezel plexi has a few scratches in it that annoys me.

I've heard that some people have had success with using Novus on plexi, but I've tried it without great results

[FrizzleFried]

How about the bezel? Got any tips on restoring scratched plexi?  I'm taking notes for my Robotron cabaret, the bezel plexi has a few scratches in it that annoys me.

I've heard that some people have had success with using Novus on plexi, but I've tried it without great results

My Star Castles bezel was maybe 6/10 pre-Novus.... it's about a 8/10 now.  It took away lots of the minor scratches...

[Spyridon]

My Star Castles bezel was maybe 6/10 pre-Novus.... it's about a 8/10 now.  It took away lots of the minor scratches...

That's good to hear.  Did you just use 1 and 2 or did you also go with Novus 3?

[RetroACTIVE]

True, but wood working isn't my specialty.  I think I can do it.  I've also found a local business with a cnc machine.  I'm trying to reach the owner about him cutting some cabs for me.

Bah!!! 3 1/2 HP fixed router w/ 1/2" collet, and a 3/4" dual bearing cutting bit... I've use the hell out of this one (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21267&rrt=1) and it still is going strong. 

Get a 5x8 sheet of masonite board to use as a template, some clamps and your good to go!  Heck you could probably get a couple sheets of white melamine from home depot (they have it at mine) to save you painting...

[Q*Bert_OP]

How about the bezel? Got any tips on restoring scratched plexi?  I'm taking notes for my Robotron cabaret, the bezel plexi has a few scratches in it that annoys me.

Novus doesn't work for me. My Cirqus Voltaire's backglass was very scratched with graffiti on it. I wish I took before shots, but now all the damage is gone, and it is very glossy. Some of the worst gouges were in the area in the picture below.

I sanded the front of the backglass with 2000 grit, compounded it with 3M perfect-it extra cut(using a random orbital buffer), sanded again, cleaned with denatured alcohol, then flame polished. This backglass is some type of plastic, most likely butyrate. I've also had success using this method on various plexiglass bezels on some 8-liners and classic vids. Your mileage may vary. Attempt at your own risk. 

[Spyridon]

Get a 5x8 sheet of masonite board to use as a template, some clamps and your good to go!  Heck you could probably get a couple sheets of white melamine from home depot (they have it at mine) to save you painting...

So use the masonite board first to create a template and then use that to cut the two sides? 

[opt2not]

Get a 5x8 sheet of masonite board to use as a template, some clamps and your good to go!  Heck you could probably get a couple sheets of white melamine from home depot (they have it at mine) to save you painting...

So use the masonite board first to create a template and then use that to cut the two sides? 

Yeah, I agree. The point of transferring the shape onto Masonite (aka hardboard -- found in any hardware store) first is so you not only have an easier, more manageable lightweight template to trace off, as well as working out the imperfections of the original sides while you make it.  Otherwise you'd have to repair the edges and corners first, then use the original as the template which would be more work in the long run, and clunkier to manipulate. 

Besides, I think he wants you to transfer it to Masonite because it's lighter to ship to him afterward.

I sanded the front of the backglass with 2000 grit, compounded it with 3M perfect-it extra cut(using a random orbital buffer), sanded again, cleaned with denatured alcohol, then flame polished. This backglass is some type of plastic, most likely butyrate. I've also had success using this method on various plexiglass bezels on some 8-liners and classic vids. Your mileage may vary. Attempt at your own risk. 

Interesting, seems pretty straight-forward, though the flame-polishing part scares the crap outta me. Did you just use a torch? Or was there some rig you setup? My worry would be getting an even distribution of heat.  I've read that people have used heat-strips for bending plastics, something I've been looking into myself, I wonder if a setup like this would be the safest.

[FrizzleFried]

My Star Castles bezel was maybe 6/10 pre-Novus.... it's about a 8/10 now.  It took away lots of the minor scratches...

That's good to hear.  Did you just use 1 and 2 or did you also go with Novus 3?

Novus 2 exclusively...

[RetroACTIVE]

Get a 5x8 sheet of masonite board to use as a template, some clamps and your good to go!  Heck you could probably get a couple sheets of white melamine from home depot (they have it at mine) to save you painting...

So use the masonite board first to create a template and then use that to cut the two sides?  

Yeah, I agree. The point of transferring the shape onto Masonite (aka hardboard -- found in any hardware store) first is so you not only have an easier, more manageable lightweight template to trace off, as well as working out the imperfections of the original sides while you make it.  Otherwise you'd have to repair the edges and corners first, then use the original as the template which would be more work in the long run, and clunkier to manipulate.  

Besides, I think he wants you to transfer it to Masonite because it's lighter to ship to him afterward.

You're BOTH correct

Make the template by screwing the 5x8 masonite board to a side panel of that cab... trim off excess masonite board with a jigsaw, leaving no more than 1/4" over hang from the cab edges.  Use your router to cut the template edge with the lower bearing riding along the StarCastle edge... where the edge of the cab is compromised, missing or damaged you will have to do a second operation using a straight edge or something to complete the pattern.

Cut your finished panel along the inside surface of the cabinet... this way you can screw the template right to the new material (keeping your screw holes on the inside / inconspicuous areas).  This will keep the template well locked into position

1. Screw template to the new 5x8 material.

2. Cut the new material with a jigsaw following around the template... leaving no more than 1/4" in excess from the edge of the template.  No need to stress out the router.

3. Set your router depth so the upper bearing will follow nicely along the template edge (masonite board is about 1/4" thick)

4. With your router, cut off the excess panel material... following along the template

5. For the other side panel cut, flip template so the screw holes remain inside the cab again.

6. Repeat

7. Let me come and pick up that template

[Spyridon]

7. Let me come and pick up that template

Good information.  That seems pretty straight forward.  You have a deal on the template!

[saleem]

i bought the gibbins from someone in usa for my star castle.i installed the harness and i fitted a tube to the chassis,he only sent the chassis with no tube,for shipping reasons obviously.also he sent the transformer.coincidentaly my cab was hacked up to s**t with stellar castle parts and was not logical to try to work with it as it was pretty flaky and was nonrunning.

no pic at monitor,the vertical deflector is getting lot hotter than the horizontal.

i checked the voltages at the connector from the harness to the chassis,they are suspect.

i have faulty transistors on the vertical deflector,got to source replacements.i changed all the diodes for that section,i thought i would change the diodes for the horizontal section,i actualy found 1 cracked,would not have know had i not been desoldering it,came off in 2 halves.

i checked the voltages to the hv unit and from it,i get the 25 to but,nothing from it,had to order all the parts that are listed on biltronics site for the hv unit rebuild,lucky that site was around rather than me wandering and trying to find suitable replacements,parts are on order from digikey,some parts i couldnt order so i will have to source them out.

just hope that a rebuild of the hv unit will sort it out as you cant work on the quadruplar as its factory sealed unit.

so i got my parts but,they all need work,i think the transformer could do with a rebuild also but,biltronix dont have a component list,suppose its just a case of finding out whats what when i get round to it.
 

[SavannahLion]

Because of the size, it will need to be mounted on the underside of the board.  The FAQ recommends that R118, R119, R218, and R219 all be replaced in this way. 

Probably a little late but....

First off... Why can't you mount the resistor vertically? Are the leads not long enough? Seems like there's enough space to mount the new resistor vertically.

Second, what FAQ?

[Spyridon]

First off... Why can't you mount the resistor vertically? Are the leads not long enough? Seems like there's enough space to mount the new resistor vertically.

If you mean stand it up on end, I'm not sure if the leads are long enough.  
Here is what they look like mounted on the bottom (not my board):


However, I will be using a different type that is smaller in size that will work on that side of the board.

Second, what FAQ?

See post #6 above for a link.

[SavannahLion]

Oh DUH. I thought there was a Star Castle FAQ. Silly me.

[saleem]

what progress you made with your cab so far?

was there any probs you found with the cab?

so far i have bought a transformer/harness and keltron monitor chassis for mine.the boards power on fine and plays blind,it did with the older hacked stuff that was inside it.the voltages at the monitor connector on the harness are suspect,when the monitor chassis was connected to the harness the circuit breakers went.i traced it down to a deflector,simple process of elimination.

i also discovered 25v was going to the hv unit but,no ouput voltages.

so far,i have replaced the transistors on both deflectors,i changed the power transformer to 240v,theres no fuse popping now.i rebuilt most of the hv unit,theres still some parts to source out as digikey didnt have all the parts in stock that biltronix listed,i get voltages out from the hv unit but,they are low,still need to replace some components like i said then should get improvements.

i have changed all the diodes,transisters and loads of other parts on the monitor chassis,theres only 1 regulator to replace and the ics.

i have done some work on the transformer,i recapped it but,i didnt do the bigger blue ones as you cant get them,if i think thems suspect i can change them out for an alternative but,i replaced a couple of caps elsewhere,i also replaced the diodes,i just need to source out the transistor for it,i can  get it from farnell which is a couple miles away but,i got to travel there.so fingers crossed that when i get the transistor in the voltages will be more where they should be.then its a case of getting the voltages higher at the hv unit,when i get them higher i can try a tube on the chassis and see whats what then.

this cab of mine has been a standing project for around a year.after a year of collecting and doing work on the cabs i grew up enough to try to tackle the work myself.

 

[Spyridon]

Haven't had any time to work on this.  Cab is in the garage until the weather gets better and I've been too busy to work on the electronics.

[emphatic]

About Novus, you should use Novus 3 then Novus 2. Novus 1 is like water.

[Spyridon]

This project is not dead.  Just haven't had much time lately.  However, we are back at it.

Last week I rebuilt the power supply.  I didn't do your typical replace the caps and call it a day job on this.  All caps, all diodes, most of the resistors, all IC's and all transistors were replaced.  I most cases, I used a newer higher grade part in place of the old part.  This thing should last forever. 

For the breakers, I was able to find a NOS set


Before:


During:


After:


This week I'm getting started on rebuilding the monitor.  This will get the same treatment as the power supply did.  Almost all the components will be replaced with newer more reliable parts. 

I will also be cutting a brand new cabinet for this to go into.  This Old Game has finished up the side art for this and it is shipping to me right now.

[Spyridon]

Update...I now have a working Star Castle!!!

I found a bad resistor and a few bad transistors as well as a bad LF13331N chip on the monitor pcb.  While I was in there, I replaced almost all of the resistors, diodes, transistors and IC's with newer higher grade components (hundreds of solder points).  I did not replace the DAC80's as they are $25 each and I didn't have a better chip option.  This, hopefully, is as close to bullet proof as you can get and should last a long time without any issues.

Pics coming soon as I don't have the ability to download my photos right now.

New cnc cut cab will be constructed this Spring when the weather gets nicer.

Minty Star Castle is one big step closer to completion.

[Spyridon]

Here is the old R19:


And the new one:


All original heatsinks were replaced on the new transistors as well as adding additional heatsinks to Q105 and Q205.  Because of the other components in that area, I had to use a different type of heatsink

[Spyridon]

My test bench setup


And the game in action

 
(overlay needs to be centered)

[Spyridon]

[IG-88]

Wow! That picture looks fantastic!

Kudos for replacing all those components.     I'm not sure I would have the nerve to tackle something that epic. I'd be afraid of making a mistake with all that soldering. 

[RetroACTIVE]

Awesome... The hard part is over.

Star Castle is one of my all time favorites.  So simple but so much fun... classic sounds and vector awesomeness really brings me back!

[opt2not]

Wow Spyri!  Great job getting this baby running!
You are truly hard-core man.  

Interesting hearing your voice, for some odd reason I thought you were European.
Guess not!  Sounds like you're fightin' a sniffle though.
I gotta say, one of the nicest sounds to me is hearing that vector monitor chatter. I don't know why, but it kinda sounds comforting to me. Thanks for the video, and I can't wait to see more progress. Your threads are always so inspiring.

_{bah, this is really pushing me to figure out that Asteroids cocktail problem. I gotta get on that.}

[Spyridon]

Sounds like you're fightin' a sniffle though.
  

yeah, I probably should have waited on the video until I was over my cold.  

[Spyridon]

Coming later this Summer:




New cnc cut cabinet.

[dmckean]

Did this ever get finished?

[Spyridon]

Did this ever get finished?

No, not yet.  I'm still planning on finishing it, just haven't gotten to it yet.

[Generic Eric]

What was the scale on those pics? 

[JRudebaugh]

My cabinet looks almost identical to your . So much water damage.  Any chance you'd share out those plans? I'm missing some of the wood parts off my cab too..  I have access to a cnc table and don't want to reinvent the wheel.