New Product: Ultimarc PacLED64 LED controller

[AndyWarne]

NEW:
64 channel LED controller with full dimming. Constant current outputs. On-board flash for storage of attract-mode sequences and many other features.
Also available: RGB Ultralux pushbuttons with LEDs which simply plug into the board.

Full details here:  http://www.ultimarc.com/pacled64.html

The new products will be available in our store by end of this week. Price will be $59.

[opt2not]

      

[jipp]

very cool.  i would need two of these for 33 buttons correct?

my sister wants all this LED bling for her cab. heh.

and my sis gets what she wants.   hey you only get one little sister

chris.

[Franco B]

 

Wow, this looks fantastic!

I have only skim read it but it look great and ideal for one of my current projects.

The constant current feature is great, no more wiring up fiddly resistors!

I do have one quick question. Will I be able to wire four identical ~3v LEDs in parallel from one output without using resistors?

The flash storage feature is fantastic too. This will mean it can be used in projects where the PC is not always on or where there isn't a PC at all! 

Damn, I have some serious thinking to do now.

   

[Savannan]

Great product...but I see one major problem.

I dont like the fact that I have to buy seperate connectors to connect non Ultralux's buttons and im not about goin to soder on the pins.

You know on your ipac where you can insert a wire and screw it down type connector...can you fabricate one of those that slide over all those pins or perhaps make another version that uses the screw type connector?

I really really want to buy one, but I dont like the above.  

Thanks again for another great product Andy. 

Sav

[Nephasth]

Ask and I shall receive! 

I dont like the fact that I have to buy seperate connectors to connect non Ultralux's buttons and im not about goin to soder on the pins.

Don't solder the pins to the wires....use a terminal crimper.

[scream1973]

You can always use pin header crimp on connectors which slide right over the pins..available at any electronics parts supplier

[Ed_McCarron]

Pretty cool, but I think this sentence needs a few more acronyms.

An SDK is available which includes a DLL to provide an API to enable LED control in your programs.

[Savannan]

i guess..but still a little leary thou...

The crimp connector would have to be insulated thou...I can see myself in the "utt ohh" senerio.  lol

[Nephasth]

i guess..but still a little leary thou...

The crimp connector would have to be insulated thou...I can see myself in the "utt ohh" senerio.  lol

The crimped terminal pin then locks into a plastic connector...thus insulated.

[JODY]

very cool.  i would need two of these for 33 buttons correct?

That would depend on how many LEDs you want per button.  If you are doing only one, why do you think it will require two boards?

[Nephasth]

very cool.  i would need two of these for 33 buttons correct?

That would depend on how many LEDs you want per button.  If you are doing only one, why do you think it will require two boards?

RGB LEDs.

[drventure]

Very cool! Though the screw down connectors on the LEDwiz are a lot more convenient for straight LED lamp applications...

[Bender]

21 RGB's on one board and no resistors, SWEET!

[jipp]

very cool.  i would need two of these for 33 buttons correct?

That would depend on how many LEDs you want per button.  If you are doing only one, why do you think it will require two boards?

yeah rgb.  if im gonna do/learn this led thing for my sis.. may as well try this rgb stuff,

chris.

[AndyWarne]

Great product...but I see one major problem.

I dont like the fact that I have to buy seperate connectors to connect non Ultralux's buttons and im not about goin to soder on the pins.

Sav

The thinking behind this is 64 connections plus all the grounds is a lot of screw terminals. I think this would be a rather cumbersome approach.
The 0.1 inch pins have a large variety of standard connectors available. We supply the housings and could also supply unfitted crimp contacts as well. IDC connectors of the type used on disk drive cables are also available and we might look at supplying these already crimped onto ribbon cables.
The intention was to provide a quick and easy RGB solution using our buttons (which would avoid having to make up to 168 connections if you count both ends) and also facilitate connection to other LEDs. The problem with RGB LEDs is there is a lot of wiring and I really wanted to avoid laboriously connecting all those wires.

[Franco B]

Andy, could you answer this?

I do have one quick question. Will I be able to wire four identical ~3v LEDs in parallel from one output without using resistors?

In this situation, if one LED was drawing 20mA then the four LEDs in parallel would be drawing 80mA. Is is possible to draw 80mA off one pin/output?

Is there a limit to the amount of power that can be drawn from each output and/or the board as a whole?

[melvinbates]

If I'm not mistaken I would say that while the chips he is using could probably handle a single pin drain of 120ma, it's probably set to limit the current to 20ma (or there about), so as to control a single led.
I've been playing with the tlc5940s for a few days to create something similar and now it looks like I won't have to   Great idea putting the flash on there.

[keefyboy]

I'd prefer screw terminals on the power connection. As is, I'd need to de-solder the stock connector. Most people will (I think) use power taken from a PC power supply.

I understand it, however, as the stock power connection is nearly impossible to reverse polarity. Maybe I'm just averse to wall-wart connectors....

[Franco B]

I'd prefer screw terminals on the power connection. As is, I'd need to de-solder the stock connector. Most people will (I think) use power taken from a PC power supply.

I understand it, however, as the stock power connection is nearly impossible to reverse polarity. Maybe I'm just averse to wall-wart connectors....

Have you read the documentation on the page Andy linked to?

Connecting Power and USB

The PacLED64 is supplied with a power cable which plugs onto a spare PC power supply hard drive power connector.
When shipped, the + (positive) wire is not inserted into the connector housing. There is a choice of 5 volt or 12 volt power available on HDD power connectors.
Select as follows:

If you are using mainly LEDs with in-built resistors:
Select the location which mates with the YELLOW wire on the PC connector. This is 12 volts.
Examples of this type of LED are:

    *  Ultimarc Ultralux pushbutton LEDs
    *  Ultimarc U-Trak trackball illumination kit
    *  All 5 volt or 9 volt LED lamps

If you are using mainly LEDs without resistors (standard LEDs):
Select the location which mates with the RED wire (5 Volts).
Using 5 volts reduces power wastage and keeps the temperature of the driver ICs on the board to acceptable levels.

Also, connect the USB cable to a USB port on the PC.

[keefyboy]

Well, if you're going to be so snarky  - have you read what I wrote? Did you even look at the graphic you linked to? There is clearly a Molex to wall-wart connector, which I said I do not want.

I don't want wall-wart connectors. I want screw terminals than I can put stripped wires in. Stock, I have to de-solder the wall-wart connector and hard-solder in wires directly. I don't really want the Molex to wall-wart connector piece.

I will admit I'm an outlier more than a couple standard deviations from what most people want, and I really do *NOT* expect Andy to cater to my oddball tastes.

[Franco B]

Why the hell do you need to desolder anything? 

If you don't want to connect it to a PC molex then just cut the molex off and use a terminal strip.

[AndyWarne]

If I'm not mistaken I would say that while the chips he is using could probably handle a single pin drain of 120ma, it's probably set to limit the current to 20ma (or there about), so as to control a single led.
I've been playing with the tlc5940s for a few days to create something similar and now it looks like I won't have to   Great idea putting the flash on there.

Thats correct, the current is always 20mA. But connecting the LEDs in series would work.

It doesnt use TLC5940 by the way though...

[AndyWarne]

I'd prefer screw terminals on the power connection. As is, I'd need to de-solder the stock connector. Most people will (I think) use power taken from a PC power supply.

I understand it, however, as the stock power connection is nearly impossible to reverse polarity. Maybe I'm just averse to wall-wart connectors....

Yes I thought most people would want to power from a PC power supply so we provide a cable which plugs into the PC power supply!
But some will use a mains adaptor (which we might sell at some time but are widely available) and this will plug into the connector on the board. I cant see how screw terminals can be better than this solution, you would need to cut off the connector on the mains adaptor and wire it to the screw terminals.

[Franco B]

If I'm not mistaken I would say that while the chips he is using could probably handle a single pin drain of 120ma, it's probably set to limit the current to 20ma (or there about), so as to control a single led.
I've been playing with the tlc5940s for a few days to create something similar and now it looks like I won't have to   Great idea putting the flash on there.

Thats correct, the current is always 20mA. But connecting the LEDs in series would work.

It doesnt use TLC5940 by the way though...

Thats a shame Andy. I wanted to wire four RGBs together and then run them off three outputs ( plus one 5v contact). I can wire them in parallel to achieve this but it sounds like that won't work with your board and I don't think you can wire standard 4 lead RGBs in series can you?

[AndyWarne]

[quote author=Franco B link=topic=108364.msg1150650#msg1150650 Thats a shame Andy. I wanted to wire four RGBs together and then run them off three outputs ( plus one 5v contact). I can wire them in parallel to achieve this but it sounds like that won't work with your board and I don't think you can wire standard 4 lead RGBs in series can you?

[/quote]

No this will not work with RGB. Note LEDs should not be directly wired in parallel as there is no way to ensure they all share the current equally, as they dont have a fixed resistance.

[mlalena]

I don't think you can wire standard 4 lead RGBs in series can you?

Yes you can. You just need more than 5V. I use this LED calculator on the web. Ex: http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz
On a 5V line you can only get two 1.8-2.1 LEDs. To get more you would need to use a relay.

Hook the 5V output & ground from the PacLED64 to the coil of the relay. Then run a 12V line (spare drive power from the computer) through the common line in the relay and connect the LEDs to the NC (Normally Closed) pin on the Relay and the ground on the computer drive power. With the 12V from the computer, you won't have any chance of an milliamp overload issue either.

Links
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molex_connector#Disk_drive_connector_.28Molex_8981_Series_Power_Connector.29
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay#Pole_and_throw

[AndyWarne]

I don't think you can wire standard 4 lead RGBs in series can you?

Yes you can. You just need more than 5V. I use this LED calculator on the web. Ex: http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz
On a 5V line you can only get two 1.8-2.1 LEDs. To get more you would need to use a relay.

Hook the 5V output & ground from the PacLED64 to the coil of the relay. Then run a 12V line (spare drive power from the computer) through the common line in the relay and connect the LEDs to the NC (Normally Closed) pin on the Relay and the ground on the computer drive power. With the 12V from the computer, you won't have any chance of an milliamp overload issue either.

Links
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molex_connector#Disk_drive_connector_.28Molex_8981_Series_Power_Connector.29
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay#Pole_and_throw

The above unfortunately like farting in an elevator, wrong on so many levels 
It is not possible actually to connect RGB LEDs in series. Single LEDs yes, but RGB no, because one side of the 3 LEDs is commoned.
The PacLED does not have a 5V output, nor is it referenced to ground, and a relay would not work because no relay can switch on and off at the 100Khz output of the board. The board can already run at 12 volts anyway so all the above is unnecessary...Oh and the LED calculator is irrelevant because no resistors are needed with this board.

If using single LEDs, just connect 4 in series and to the board. No calculator or resistor needed. Power the board from 12 volts.

[milhouse]

Quick Question...

Any idea if these would work?  I am having trouble finding a source for the headers (apart from Ebay), nor do I know whether there is a standard.  Thanks.

Brand New 20 Pin .100" Header Connector with Crimp Pin (2 pieces)

Crimp Pin included
 
Features
• Suitable for Female Pins
• Pins Lock Into Socket
• Current Rating up to 1A

[Nephasth]

Quick Question...

Any idea if these would work?  I am having trouble finding a source for the headers (apart from Ebay), nor do I know whether there is a standard.  Thanks.

Brand New 20 Pin .100" Header Connector with Crimp Pin (2 pieces)

Crimp Pin included
 
Features
• Suitable for Female Pins
• Pins Lock Into Socket
• Current Rating up to 1A

The board comes with connector housings even if you don't buy the harnesses. Here's what comes with the board:

Kit Contents:

PacLED64 Board.
USB Cable
Power cable for connection to PC HDD power
2 x 48-way empty connector housings. Wires with crimp contacts (ordered separately if required) push into these.

And I think these will work with the supplied connector housings.

[Bender]

in the online manual for the U-HID there are the part #'s for those things (only a different #of pin holes) I got-em from Digi-Key

From the U-HID manual

"Connectors
The open pin headers can be used with a variety of 0.1 in (2.54mm) connectors. Example housings are Molex p/n 22-55-2401 (40 way) or 22-55-2101 (10 way) Crimp terminals for these are 16-02-0102. A partial-length connector can be used in any location, for example 10-way, 12- way etc will fit.
Note a selection of ready-made harnesses are available from Ultimarc.com"

[Nephasth]

Seems that the pins Bender has pointed out are C-Grid pins (what Ultimarc specifies). The ones I have suggested are C-Grid III pins. I can't find anything that directly says they are interchangeable, but they appear to be. The main difference I noticed was the lock tab of the pins. Unfortunately I do not have any C-Grid housings laying around to test my theory. Might have to make an order to put my mind at rest...

[Bender]

no the tab out ones are NOT compatible they both work on the board, but you need the right pin for the right housing
kinda bummer i was hoping to mix and match

[AndyWarne]

We didnt really intend for people to need to buy crimps themselves for this board. The RGB buttons we supply have connectors already attached and for other LEDs we sell packs of 10 pre-crimped wires.

But maybe we need to re-think this and offer alternative options such as packs of crimp terminals.

[SavannahLion]

The name of the game is flexibility. There is always the possibility your product may not even be used in an arcade cabinet.

But I digress. Am I to understand that the anodes are intended to be driven off a pair of voltage pins controlled by the IC rather than straight off the positive rail? In other words, there's no way to sink more than 20mA worth of LEDs on each cathode?

From the conversation here I'm confused as to where the limiter is occurring, on the anode or cathode side and whether I can remove that restriction by using 12v rail instead

[Bender]

We didnt really intend for people to need to buy crimps themselves for this board. The RGB buttons we supply have connectors already attached and for other LEDs we sell packs of 10 pre-crimped wires.

But maybe we need to re-think this and offer alternative options such as packs of crimp terminals.

I wouldn't worrry too much about it, this is BYOAC you know
I really liked the flexibility to make amy own harness just the way I wanted it (I like to tinker)
I think most people would happy to use the harness you offer

[AndyWarne]

The name of the game is flexibility. There is always the possibility your product may not even be used in an arcade cabinet.

But I digress. Am I to understand that the anodes are intended to be driven off a pair of voltage pins controlled by the IC rather than straight off the positive rail? In other words, there's no way to sink more than 20mA worth of LEDs on each cathode?

From the conversation here I'm confused as to where the limiter is occurring, on the anode or cathode side and whether I can remove that restriction by using 12v rail instead

Each pin sinks 20ma. The current is fixed, regardless of the LED supply voltage. Thats the proper way to drive LEDs, with a constant current. Of course the voltage must be high enough to achieve the current. Using 12 volts would not increase the current. The only way to increase the current is to parallel multiple pins.

[Peskoe]

Are there any plans for developing the "supplied application" farther?

[RetroBorg]

How many RGB LEDs can one PacLED64 board handle?

[Nephasth]

How many RGB LEDs can one PacLED64 board handle?

21