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"Frosted" solder joints
SavannahLion:
The last few times I resoldered or reflowed something on a scrap PCB, it always comes out "frosted". I'm using 60/40 blend. I apply the iron, the solder, it flows, it's nice and shiny when I remove and all is looking good then... BAM! it frosts over in an instant.
All I can think of is that I'm inadvertantly moving the components as it's setting. Yet, even if I don't have my hands on the joints, they're still frosting.
Is there anything else that I'm overlooking? Am I not removing enough of the old solder? Maybe I'm not cleaning the joint well enough? Perhaps I actually need to clamp the components down to prevent movement?
Can any of the soldering guru's enlighten me with their knowledge?
MonMotha:
Assuming things aren't moving as the joint cools, you're probably not getting enough of the old solder off. Solder rapidly accumulates impurities that will cause this "frosted" look on the joint. You may also need a new tip on your iron.
Also, consider using a 63/37 solder. It will have a slightly higher melting point than 60/40, but it is a "eutectic" alloy, so it won't have a plastic phase during cooling. Instead, it very rapidly transitions from a full liquid to a solid. This makes joints less susceptible to movement during cooling.
RayB:
That used to happen to me all the time when I would over-heat solder. That might be your issue. THe iron is too hot, or you are not yet the master of Touch-Melt-Remove
Ed_McCarron:
--- Quote from: RayB on November 29, 2010, 02:32:59 pm ---That used to happen to me all the time when I would over-heat solder. That might be your issue. THe iron is too hot, or you are not yet the master of Touch-Melt-Remove
--- End quote ---
You missed a few steps.
Touch-Melt-Remove-Scream-Blow on fingers-curse
Frigo:
Try silver bearing solder - I've been using that for all my electronic work and it seems to set really quickly, thus no frosty joints.
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