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Guywiththegun:
Somethings going on with the connections on the switches with my Novagems. I get the connection with a female disconnect, but it doesn't 'stay' connected. You kind of have to maneuver the wires to keep the LEDs on. Once I had the wires in a position that worked, I left them there and kind of forgot about it.
Now I'm wiring the actual buttons to my Minipac and I'm having the same issues. Sometimes the button works, sometimes it doesn't. I have to move the wire around to get any connection. This is obviously not ideal as its not reliable.
Is this normal of these switches or is something wrong with mine?
Slippyblade:
Sounds like a weak crimp on the connection. Grab a crimper or pliers and give the base of the wire connection a squeeze to tighten it up.
RandyT:
--- Quote from: Guywiththegun on September 19, 2016, 08:20:27 pm ---Somethings going on with the connections on the switches with my Novagems. I get the connection with a female disconnect, but it doesn't 'stay' connected. You kind of have to maneuver the wires to keep the LEDs on. Once I had the wires in a position that worked, I left them there and kind of forgot about it.
Now I'm wiring the actual buttons to my Minipac and I'm having the same issues. Sometimes the button works, sometimes it doesn't. I have to move the wire around to get any connection. This is obviously not ideal as its not reliable.
--- End quote ---
I assume you mean the NovaGemCDR?
This is the nature of all of these style of illuminated buttons. The "fingers" inside which make contact with the LED, are a physical part of the terminal you connect the wires to. Wiggling the wires while connected to the terminals can move/bend the "fingers" and cause the connection to the LED to become loose. If this has happened, you may need to tweak the fingers a bit to tighten them back up, and once you have them working, secure your wiring so that the terminals won't get moved around.
Guywiththegun:
--- Quote from: RandyT on September 20, 2016, 12:04:28 am ---I assume you mean the NovaGemCDR?
This is the nature of all of these style of illuminated buttons. The "fingers" inside which make contact with the LED, are a physical part of the terminal you connect the wires to. Wiggling the wires while connected to the terminals can move/bend the "fingers" and cause the connection to the LED to become loose. If this has happened, you may need to tweak the fingers a bit to tighten them back up, and once you have them working, secure your wiring so that the terminals won't get moved around.
--- End quote ---
Fair enough, I'll just secure them in position. They don't stop working during regular use, only when I have to mess with wiring for whatever reason. I think I may understand what's going on with the connection issues . .
I'm new at this and thought I could just buy any wire. I ended up getting some pretty thick wire (at least compared to the wire on the harness) that I'm pretty sure is solid core.
PL1:
--- Quote from: Guywiththegun on September 20, 2016, 12:22:16 pm ---I ended up getting some pretty thick wire (at least compared to the wire on the harness) that I'm pretty sure is solid core.
--- End quote ---
QDs are designed to work with stranded wire -- the strands compress and push back against the crimp.
Crimping solid core wire can be problematic because if there is any twisting or pulling force on the QD, the wire can easily pull free since there are no strands pushing back against the crimp.
Solder the wire to the QD (after threading it through the hole to the right of the insulating sleeve) and crimp the sleeve onto the insulation of the wire as shown in the attached pics -- works for solid core (red wire) or stranded. (white wire)
Threading the wire through the hole provides improved mechanical and electrical connection. ;D
Scott
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