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tron84:
--- Quote from: RandyT on June 04, 2013, 12:52:36 am ---
--- Quote from: tron84 on June 03, 2013, 12:20:56 pm ---
I think that would be great to offer Randy. I think it would do well at GGG.
I was the person who ordered last night & sent an email also saying that would be a great item to have at GGG :)
I also asked on the 49way. I know you are a busy person man. Just when ever you can let me know .
Thanks again Randy.
Your products & service is always top notch.....
--- End quote ---
Thanks for the kind words. Please do me a favor and resend your email. I don't see any in my inbox which make reference to those items.
On the control panel service project, I spent the last few days installing breaker boxes, a variable frequency drive and a 220v 5HP (real) Colombo spindle on, and making modifications to, my 4x8 router table. What a difference compared to the 110v 3.5HP(fake) Milwaukee router body. Once I get some free time, I will be doing some cutting tests to make sure things are tuned in, and we'll take it from there. Should be able to cut faster, cleaner and be easier on the bits. I have high hopes :)
Thanks again for the feedback.
--- End quote ---
I sent the email in GGG, when I was logged on, after my order.
This is Jeff N. :)
If you need me to resend it, I will. I took what you said, as you were looking in the email here?
Sounds like Tim the Tool Man,"More Power, ohhh oohhh ehh ehhh." :cheers: ;D
Sounds like you are on the right track for that and that sounds good. I think they will do well & people already know the good stuff you provide. So cheers on that for you :cheers:
KevinFlynn:
Hi Randy,
I was wondering if anyone has ever figured how to create torque on a steering wheel with the TT2 spinner. I am able to play Cruisin' USA but being able to somehow create the original feel of the steering in the arcade (where the wheel centers and has torque when turned L and R) would be awesome.
I know there have been other posts about this, I just wanted to know your input/experience if possible.
Thanks!!
RandyT:
This would be difficult to do with the current steering wheel arrangement. It is possible, but many mods would be necessary. The first would be to fix the steering wheel permanently to the shaft. After that, any number of techniques could be used for the centering mechanism. The highest tech way would be to couple a large servo motor to the shaft and a controller which monitors position, which essentially tries to keep the wheel at a specific position, and returns it there when released. Force feedback capability would be a side benefit of this approach.
More simply, one could attach centering springs to the shaft. This would require an attachment to the shaft, with arms extending to each side. At the ends of the extended arms would be attached springs, or heavy rubber material under tension, with the force in-line and opposite on each side. This would provide resistance while turning and centering when released.
KevinFlynn:
Thanks, great reply.
I had the thought of using a fairly strong spring, a thin cable, and the ESC. Drill a small hole through the ESC and with one end of the cable attached to the spring, run the other end through the ESC and with a little tension already on the spring, crimp the cable. Now, whether it turns R or L, the wire would coil around the ESC and the spring would want it to return to center. Also, I could simply unmount the ESC if I wanted to return to a more free wheel config.
You mentioned force feedback capability. My concern with doing the above method is constantly having to recalibrate the controls if they tend to get off center. I assume force feedback would prevent this, right? Any idea how I would ever accomplish such a thing?
RandyT:
--- Quote from: KevinFlynn on June 10, 2013, 02:13:22 pm ---Thanks, great reply.
I had the thought of using a fairly strong spring, a thin cable, and the ESC. Drill a small hole through the ESC and with one end of the cable attached to the spring, run the other end through the ESC and with a little tension already on the spring, crimp the cable. Now, whether it turns R or L, the wire would coil around the ESC and the spring would want it to return to center. Also, I could simply unmount the ESC if I wanted to return to a more free wheel config.
You mentioned force feedback capability. My concern with doing the above method is constantly having to recalibrate the controls if they tend to get off center. I assume force feedback would prevent this, right? Any idea how I would ever accomplish such a thing?
--- End quote ---
You could also use a thin bungee cord through the ESC, fastened under tension to a couple of eyebolts or something similar on each side.
With a good controller, calibration would only need to be done once at power up, unless each game had it's own method of doing it. It could also be mapped as an analog stick by the interface, and the controls mapped to that type of device, leaving the calibration up to the interface.
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