Main > Project Announcements
First Project: MegaTokyo MAME!!
Aithos:
Yeah, I've been asking people I know and I think I've decided to nix the neo-geo coloring. If neo-geo were going to be most of what I was going to play I might do it, but those games will just be secondary. I like the idea of having the four buttons in a row so that when I do play them it is more authentic but the coloring just isn't as important to me. As for the snap-in buttons, I was thinking I could route out the underside of the top panel of my CP and have it be thin enough with the plexi to accomodate snap in buttons. I just really don't like the screw in blue color of Seimitsu buttons, I like the navy ones and as stupid as that sounds it will really bother me if I'm not ok with the color.
I also found today after messing with the cabinet that it was laminated on the sides and not painted (yay!) so I peeled off the side laminate after work and will finish the front over my long weekend. I think I've also narrowed the primary color of the cabinet down to two shades which I'll see if I can get pictures up (I don't have codes yet since I haven't chosen a paint brand). I'm thinking that I will have to rent an HVLP sprayer so I'm wondering if I can use a roller for the primer coats and first coat of paint and then spray the last coat so I don't have to buy a sprayer (and I can do the first several coats inside). I am planning on sanding between coats so I'm not worried about orange peel or anything, but I want the final coat to be as good as possible. I'm also wondering if it would be worth sanding with a really high grit paper and using some kind of finishing cream after the last coat to get a really smooth finish. I'm not doing black so I don't want the piano black glossy mirror type finish, I just want it really well done and smooth. Any ideas? Still waiting on pics, I'll hopefully get them up tommorrow or thursday (battery is kaput)
Donkbaca:
The snap in buttons are made to go in panels that are 1.5 to 4.5mm thick, so really the thickest you could go in terms of CP material is 1/8th of an inch, so if you are putting plexi on top, there is pretty much no way you can have wood underneath, assuming that you use 1/8th inch plexi, your wood would have to be less than 1/16th of an inch thick.
Aithos:
I don't think you're understanding what I'm saying. I'm talking about drilling out holes for the buttons in both the wood and the plexi, then routing out the bottom side of the wood, notching the sides and calling it good. I don't need a layer of wood for the buttons to hold to, that's what the plexi is going to do, and I'm going to have artwork between. I just want to make sure that is an ok long term solution or if I should just get a metal top (I would rather not).
mgb:
I see what you're saying about routing out the wood and clicking the buttons into the plexi. I'm not so sure that would be the most stable setup over time. You may want to first try it out on some scrap. What about the idea of using a metal overlay and cutting out the wood below as needed.
I may have missed it somewhere in there, but why not use longer nut type buttons made for wood. Hve you already bought the snap ins?
The Ice buttons with RGBs are sweet.
--- Quote from: MikeyMerse on October 29, 2010, 07:51:25 pm --- I like the Sanwa JLF's. I customized it with nylon washers around the screws in the restrictor plate so I could rotate them on the fly in 2 seconds. Just make sure your control panel is hinged or you can reach them through the coin door. Good luck with the project, I'll be watching.
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It sounds like your talking about JLWs. To me, the JLFs and JLWs are two very different sticks. I think the JLW is the best stick for 8-way and 4-way alike. The JLF will also do 4-way by rotating the restrictor, but you have to unclip it. and to me it just doesn't feel very sturdy and it seems to still allow diaginal hits sometime. The JLW is a great solid joystick however and it switches easy by rotating the restrictor plate.
BobA:
--- Quote from: BurgerKingDiamond on November 09, 2010, 07:41:34 am ---your computer power supply has +12V and +5V in it. There should be some wires with connectors that you can daisy chain off to get whatever power you need. There will be sets of black, yellow, and red wires. Black is of course ground, but I can't remember if yellow is +5V and red is +12V (it might be the other way around, just test it with a multimeter). I don't know exactly what this breakout cable looks like, but it should be pretty easy to supply +5V to it.
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Red is 5V and Yellow is 12V. This is for the PS wires only. Alot of fans have their +12V wire colored RED for some unknown reason. Read the label on the fan to see what voltage it needs. It is usually 12V.