Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up Try the site in https mode Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

« previous next »
Pages: [1]
  
Go Down

Author Topic: OEM Flipper switches to IPAC  (Read 2244 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Smeghead

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 415
  • Last login:November 05, 2015, 11:41:08 pm
  • Better Smeg than dead
    • MY MAME BUILDS
OEM Flipper switches to IPAC
« on: October 14, 2010, 12:55:54 am »
Can someone explain these to me
Due to the proximity of the plunger I cant use a standard Happ button with Microswitch, so ive got to use the original switches that the original flipper buttons pushed, but how do you wire them to the IPAC?

Is one tab +  and the other -   ? Why the resistor if thats what it is?


Logged
My MAME Build:

Q*Bert_OP

  • Wiki Contributor
  • Trade Count: (+7)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2089
  • Last login:October 25, 2012, 07:20:42 pm
  • Oh yes, we did!
Re: OEM Flipper switches to IPAC
« Reply #1 on: October 14, 2010, 01:06:01 am »
That's a spark suppression capacitor...those switches are for high current applications. You can and should remove that capacitor...solder your wires to the bottom tabs. Since that is a high current switch, it has tungsten contacts, not recommended for low current, but it will work. On the other hand, low current gold plated contacts must NEVER be used in high current applications...this causes excessive sparking and a fire hazard.
Logged
WTB: The Grid by Midway (2001), looking for 2 or more complete games, and large marquee

Smeghead

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 415
  • Last login:November 05, 2015, 11:41:08 pm
  • Better Smeg than dead
    • MY MAME BUILDS
Re: OEM Flipper switches to IPAC
« Reply #2 on: October 14, 2010, 01:20:08 am »
So negative to one tab and positive to the other?  Just like a microswitch?
Logged
My MAME Build:

Q*Bert_OP

  • Wiki Contributor
  • Trade Count: (+7)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2089
  • Last login:October 25, 2012, 07:20:42 pm
  • Oh yes, we did!
Re: OEM Flipper switches to IPAC
« Reply #3 on: October 14, 2010, 09:48:30 am »
Quote from: Smeghead on October 14, 2010, 01:20:08 am
So negative to one tab and positive to the other?  Just like a microswitch?

Yes. Use the bottom tabs, remove the capacitor from the side tabs...don't worry about those...they are in parallel with the bottom tabs.
Logged
WTB: The Grid by Midway (2001), looking for 2 or more complete games, and large marquee

Q*Bert_OP

  • Wiki Contributor
  • Trade Count: (+7)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2089
  • Last login:October 25, 2012, 07:20:42 pm
  • Oh yes, we did!
Re: OEM Flipper switches to IPAC
« Reply #4 on: October 14, 2010, 11:09:55 am »
Quote from: pinballjim on October 14, 2010, 09:50:51 am
I stuck gold plated contacts on a Comet flipper mech once, and it didn't spark anymore than the tungsten switch.

 :dunno

I'd show you some gold plated switches with holes in them, but I threw them out. They sparked and smoked with each closure.
Logged
WTB: The Grid by Midway (2001), looking for 2 or more complete games, and large marquee

Smeghead

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 415
  • Last login:November 05, 2015, 11:41:08 pm
  • Better Smeg than dead
    • MY MAME BUILDS
Re: OEM Flipper switches to IPAC
« Reply #5 on: October 14, 2010, 01:13:45 pm »
ok your scaring me, should I not use these????
Logged
My MAME Build:

Smeghead

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 415
  • Last login:November 05, 2015, 11:41:08 pm
  • Better Smeg than dead
    • MY MAME BUILDS
Re: OEM Flipper switches to IPAC
« Reply #6 on: October 14, 2010, 02:45:06 pm »
I duno, im just wiring the damn things straight to the IPAC like normal so I guess not
Logged
My MAME Build:

Q*Bert_OP

  • Wiki Contributor
  • Trade Count: (+7)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 2089
  • Last login:October 25, 2012, 07:20:42 pm
  • Oh yes, we did!
Re: OEM Flipper switches to IPAC
« Reply #7 on: October 14, 2010, 05:13:22 pm »
Quote from: pinballjim on October 14, 2010, 03:10:56 pm
Then you're fine.

 :cheers:

Yep...and Jim don't ever put gold contacts in a high voltage circuit   :whap
Logged
WTB: The Grid by Midway (2001), looking for 2 or more complete games, and large marquee

RayB

  • I'm not wearing pants! HA!
  • Trade Count: (+4)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 11279
  • Last login:March 31, 2024, 12:42:45 am
  • There's my post
    • RayB.com
Re: OEM Flipper switches to IPAC
« Reply #8 on: October 14, 2010, 06:15:22 pm »
Quote from: Q*Bert_24/7 on October 14, 2010, 05:13:22 pm
Quote from: pinballjim on October 14, 2010, 03:10:56 pm
Then you're fine.

 :cheers:

Yep...and Jim don't ever put gold contacts in a high voltage circuit   :whap
Even if they have a diode and capacitor attached?
Logged
NO MORE!!
Pages: [1]
  
Go Up
« previous next »