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Sanwa JLF joystick questions
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markronz:
doh!  I shoulda thought of that!   Traced it and white is ground, the rest I will play with.   Thanks for the help!!
RandyT:

--- Quote from: DeLuSioNal29 on October 11, 2010, 03:29:54 pm ---However, I would like to mount mine from underneath.  I don't mind the bolts showing from the top.  It give it character.  Also, if I want to replace the joystick in the future I can still do it easily.  Can't say that for the top mounted sticks.

--- End quote ---

It seems all of these types of sticks will pose the same dilemma, and our True4 stick would be handled similarly, so I'll put in my two cents.

Bottom mount with carriage bolts showing on a .750" thick panel:

From the bottom, route out a pocket that is .450" deep, and the shape of the mounting plate.  Trace the plate onto the inside of the pocket and mark the center.  Also mark the bolt holes.  Drill a hole for the shaft at the center mark, and then check for alignment.  If it's good, drill the bolt holes and mount the base.  This will give you a .300" thick mounting area, which will be plenty strong enough to mount the stick.  One could even increase the depth of the pocket to .500" with very little risk of a problem.  The depth of the pocket equals the gain in shaft length, so do what works for you.

Bottom mount with no bolts showing on a .750" thick panel:

Same as above but leave .400" panel thickness and use threaded inserts like the ones in our joystick mounting kit.  Do everything the same, but use the proper size drill bit for the inserts and, again, drill through the panel.  The inserts can be installed from the top, if they are recessed below the panel surface when installed, but it's simpler from below.  Then, after everything is mounted (spacers or washers will be necessary if the kit above is used), just use wood putty to fill the holes on the top of the panel where the inserts are installed.  This method results in a slightly shorter stick, but may be preferable to those not wanting bolt heads visible.

---------------

To get the full length of the shaft, you would need to use an overlay on your panel, or do a lot of filling.  Just route a hole for the base to fit comfortably (doesn't even have to be neat with an overlay) and a pocket on top that is deep enough to accommodate the mounting plate.  Just make sure that you leave enough material around the bolt holes so they don't break out and you are golden.

RandyT
saloonstudios:

--- Quote from: markronz on October 11, 2010, 03:09:43 pm --- I have JLF's.  You have to completely remove the restrictor plate and rotate it.

--- End quote ---

Assuming not, but can you use a JLW restrictor plate on a JLF to enable the easy 4/8 switching?
markronz:

--- Quote from: saloonstudios on October 12, 2010, 04:44:06 pm ---Assuming not, but can you use a JLW restrictor plate on a JLF to enable the easy 4/8 switching?

--- End quote ---

Nope, the plates are not compatible with each other.  They have different bolts and etc.
markronz:

--- Quote from: RandyT on October 12, 2010, 01:13:50 pm ---It seems all of these types of sticks will pose the same dilemma, and our True4 stick would be handled similarly, so I'll put in my two cents.

Bottom mount with carriage bolts showing on a .750" thick panel:

From the bottom, route out a pocket that is .450" deep, and the shape of the mounting plate.  Trace the plate onto the inside of the pocket and mark the center.  Also mark the bolt holes.  Drill a hole for the shaft at the center mark, and then check for alignment.  If it's good, drill the bolt holes and mount the base.  This will give you a .300" thick mounting area, which will be plenty strong enough to mount the stick.  One could even increase the depth of the pocket to .500" with very little risk of a problem.  The depth of the pocket equals the gain in shaft length, so do what works for you.

Bottom mount with no bolts showing on a .750" thick panel:

Same as above but leave .400" panel thickness and use threaded inserts like the ones in our joystick mounting kit.  Do everything the same, but use the proper size drill bit for the inserts and, again, drill through the panel.  The inserts can be installed from the top, if they are recessed below the panel surface when installed, but it's simpler from below.  Then, after everything it mounted (spacers or washers will be necessary if the kit above is used), just use wood putty to fill the holes on the top of the panel where the inserts are installed.  This method results in a slightly shorter stick, but may be preferable to those not wanting bolt heads visible.

---------------

To get the full length of the shaft, you would need to use an overlay on your panel, or do a lot of filling.  Just route a hole for the base to fit comfortably (doesn't even have to be neat with an overlay) and a pocket on top that is deep enough to accommodate the mounting plate.  Just make sure that you leave enough material around the bolt holes so they don't break out and you are golden.

RandyT


--- End quote ---

Thanks for all this info Randy!   It will be immensely helpful!  Thanks for taking the time to write that all out!
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