Arcade Collecting > Pinball
ROAD KINGS problems [Next step: Drop target]
RayB:
--- Quote from: JRoz on October 08, 2010, 03:29:37 pm ---damn nice find..curious where was the auction?..I cant find any auctions anywhere anymore! :(
--- End quote ---
Toronto. Starburst / PlaydiumStore. They have one every 2 or 3 or 4 months. Have been since at least the 1990's.
I didn't buy it from there though. I ended up going to a pin collector's house "just to have a look" at it. ::)
*REPAIR UPDATE*
I have a replacement UDN chip already, and an order on its way from Great Plains Electronics. I'll be rebuilding the entire power supply board to ensure durability. I also ordered a set of new rubbers and target decals.
The legs had surface rust which cleaned off easily with some SOS pads. Now they are shiny!
RayB:
:'( :hissy:
So I replaced the exploded UDN chip, I did a cap kit AND an HV kit on the power board and replaced the molex connector (was burnt up). Also fused the bridge rectifiers (as per pinrepair recommendations). And checked/replaced all fuses with correct ratings.
SO.... final outcome of voltage tests:
F1 fuse blows on power on. This is a 250mA SB fuse that supplies the HV portion of the board. So of course I get 0v in the display power output.
All other voltages on the J5 and J6 connectors are correct.
Voltage of the test posts (in the middle of the board, are -14 and +14 instead of -12 and +12. Should I be concered about this?
But more importantly, what can I do about the blowing fuse?
THe guy before me had a 15A fuse in there and the game was working, but his score displays got damaged and then the diodes burnt up!!
(then I bought it)
PS: Can i play anyways but just not connect the displays?
smartbomb2084:
Try disconnecting the power to the displays and then replace the fuse and power up the game and see if the fuse still blows. An internally shorted display, which is usually not visible to the naked eye, will blow fuses. This will narrow the problem down.
If the fuse lives without the displays. Connect one at a time and see which one makes the fuse blow. Make tthe individual display connections with the power off of course. If the fuse still dies then your soldering skills come into question.
RayB:
Guys, I would never (and you should never) test a newly repaired power supply with everything connected to it. You first test voltages. ;) So having said that, it's blowing F1 without the displays hooked up.
I eyeballed this over and over and cannot see any errors where I would have put in diodes the wrong way or connected traces accidentally. The only thing I am thinking is maybe GPE's instructions to cross the transistor legs is wrong. (see photo below)
RayB:
I have another, probably unrelated issue and that's that there is no knocker (well, i have a replacement but originally it was missing).
I cannot find what wires would be used for the knocker, except this bundle here (photo below) that is tied together and wrapped in electrical tape.
If this is indeed the knocker wires, then wouldn't tying them together cause a short-circuit every time the knocker line was triggered?
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