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Author Topic: Emulator/Driving Cab info thread - Beginners start here!  (Read 124501 times)

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BadMouth

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Can someone post their Crusin USA/World pedal set up? The game plays fine but it will not register the gas and brake pedal in the game itself. Mame sees the pedals and it even registers the gas/brake in service mode but, nothing happens in game. I tried all sorts of configuration for accel, accel inc and accel dec and nothing changed. im using mame64ui and a logitech wheel. Thanks.

BTW California Speed play perfectly.

Thanks in advance

Make sure you always leave Pedal Inc and Pedal Dec blank!
Try only mapping the gas.  Sometimes the brake and gas fight each other if one is reversed (look for the brake lights).
If it doesn't work then, try reversing the pedal in MAME under analog controls.
Once you have the gas straitened out, move onto mapping the brake.

SegaOutrun

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Success!! I got sega rally 2 running on my cab. It would not recognize my video card so, I download and installed sega rally 2 demo of the web and somehow that fixed the issue. I guess it added some missing files. The higher resolution files hack works too but, it doesnt recognize my wheel when I go to HD  :'(


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Can someone post their Crusin USA/World pedal set up? The game plays fine but it will not register the gas and brake pedal in the game itself. Mame sees the pedals and it even registers the gas/brake in service mode but, nothing happens in game. I tried all sorts of configuration for accel, accel inc and accel dec and nothing changed. im using mame64ui and a logitech wheel. Thanks.

BTW California Speed play perfectly.

Thanks in advance
I had to invert the pedals in MAME so that MAME didnt think the pedal was to the floor when my foot was off of it, but Im using the logitech PS3 wheel.
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rbrown

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This question is for Badmouth, because I have read some of you posts and you might know the answer to my dilemma.  I just hacked a Driving Force Pro to 360 degrees, but when driving, sometimes is decalibrates, not always and that is where the rub is. I have to be gentle with the movements or it will go out of whack.  I have improved my times, but that situation where it might decalibrate is always looming.  Other than that it is great. My question is what causes that. Is it the cheap optical sensor?, or is it the mother board in the wheel?, or is it the PlayStation console.  Remember the encoder wheel is now capable of turning 2.5 times faster than the original.  If you know the answer or come cures, I would sure be willing to learn. Rbrown.

BadMouth

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This question is for Badmouth, because I have read some of you posts and you might know the answer to my dilemma.  I just hacked a Driving Force Pro to 360 degrees, but when driving, sometimes is decalibrates, not always and that is where the rub is. I have to be gentle with the movements or it will go out of whack.  I have improved my times, but that situation where it might decalibrate is always looming.  Other than that it is great. My question is what causes that. Is it the cheap optical sensor?, or is it the mother board in the wheel?, or is it the PlayStation console.  Remember the encoder wheel is now capable of turning 2.5 times faster than the original.  If you know the answer or come cures, I would sure be willing to learn. Rbrown.

Not familiar with that hack.  Could you provide some details?

Does the calibration go out if you move it too fast?
or if you move it too far?

MydknyteStyrm

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This seems like the place to get my questions answered.

I am now attempting to put together driving controls for my cab. I am not making a dedicated racing cabinet, as my living room real estate wont allow it. I read as much as I can about wheels, and found the SteelSeries SRW-S1 wheel, which was made for a game called SimRaceWay. Its an interesting wheel. Its handheld, with no base or pedals. There are two analog pedals on the underside of the wheel which can be triggered easily, similar to the Z button on a N64 controller. I figured it was compact enough to work for a standup arcade. I got it for 75 bucks on Amazon, it has a USB port, and it seems to work okay with Mame. I got most of the driving games set, but some spinner wheel type games like SuperSprint and OffRoad are still not working.

Question 1: Im confused on the Dial settings for Mame. The sensitivity and digital numbers, whats the ideal setting? Higher means what, as opposed to lower numbers? If anyone could elaborate.

Question 2: My computer sees the SRW-S1 wheel as a Analog Joystick. I cant seem to get it to work on Sega Model 2, because when I set the analog brake and throttle, I only have the option to set Steering or Brake, not acceleration. Thoughts?

Question 3: How do I hook up a analog wheel to Demul?

Question 4: Should I just return this wheel and get the Logitech g27? I'm looking for the easiest way to set up a wheel, and maybe this USB wheel is more trouble than its worth.

Thanks for all your advice!

BadMouth

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I got most of the driving games set, but some spinner wheel type games like SuperSprint and OffRoad are still not working.
Yup, for those games you need a wheel that shows up as a spinner and spins endlessly.
You can get the games you mentioned working just well enough to play, but they'll never feel quite right.
Other games like pole position are literally impossible to get working properly.

Question 1: Im confused on the Dial settings for Mame. The sensitivity and digital numbers, whats the ideal setting? Higher means what, as opposed to lower numbers? If anyone could elaborate.

This is covered in the first post of this thread.  Settings that say "Digital" are for when key presses are substituted for analog controls.  The only setting that has an effect on your analog controls is Sensetivity and Reverse.  IIRC, I have the sensitivity set above 130 for most games.  Every game is different and must be set up individually.



Question 2: My computer sees the SRW-S1 wheel as a Analog Joystick. I cant seem to get it to work on Sega Model 2, because when I set the analog brake and throttle, I only have the option to set Steering or Brake, not acceleration. Thoughts?

M2 emulator requires the pedals to be on separate axis.  Yours is apparently on one axis.  You should be able to map it to acceleration and use a button for the brake.  You might be able to work around it by using a program called x360ce to create a virtual xbox controller and then selecting x-input in the m2 config file.

Question 3: How do I hook up a analog wheel to Demul?
Just map it under the analog inputs on the same screen where you map the other controls.  :dunno

Question 4: Should I just return this wheel and get the Logitech g27? I'm looking for the easiest way to set up a wheel, and maybe this USB wheel is more trouble than its worth.

Up to you.  The wheel you have takes up no space.
Anything you get is going to have it's quirks.  The G27 clutch pedal will wreak havoc while trying to map controls in Demul and some PC games unless you hold it exactly halfway down.  The cheaper wheels without a clutch don't have that problem, but they don't have an H-shifter either and would require workarounds for that.

I've thought about getting that controller for the living room.
It crams a lot of stuff into a small package.
I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on how it performs.  I think my arms would get tired.
I wonder how different from a standard wheel it would feel if attached to a steering shaft with a centering spring?

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I found a small camera tripod with a swivel head gobo that attaches to the back of the SRW quite easily. A little WD-40 and the wheel works much better than "air driving". Thanks so much for the information. I am going to test out as much as I can this weekend.

I've read about the x360 software, but has anyone successfully used xpadder with a wheel? I ask because I already have xpadder loading up with my Hyperspin.


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FaithLes2425

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Any of you nice people have any experince with Split/Second Velocity PC using a wheel?
I have a G27 wheel and mapping it to the game is fairly easy but, when every thing is set up and i am good to go i notice that when ever i turn the wheel the acceleration is slowing down. imagine if you play any driving game using an analogue controller using only one analogue stick for gas, brake, left and right so pushing the stick up would make it accelerate and back for brake. This is what it feels like when ever i use my wheel. Using a gamepad or keybord works like it should. I have bin playing a little with x360ce but i could not get the game to recognise my wheel as an Xbox controller for some reason?
Any help would be greatly appreciated since i really wanna add this game to my twin cab (work in Progress).
Daytona USA HD Panorama Demo

 
« Last Edit: March 26, 2014, 08:27:38 pm by FaithLes2425 »

Howard_Casto

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Just a heads up, some of this stuff probably needs updated. 

As of 153 the output code for outrun has been accepted, so various sega games from that era now have their "deluxe" motors hooked up, which equates to more than simple rumble. 

BadMouth

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Just a heads up, some of this stuff probably needs updated. 

As of 153 the output code for outrun has been accepted, so various sega games from that era now have their "deluxe" motors hooked up, which equates to more than simple rumble.

I'm still working crazy hours, but a few weeks from now I should be able to take a day off work and dedicate some time to implementing some of this new stuff and updating this thread.  Or preferably creating a dedicated and stickied MAMEhooker thread where lists of games with working outputs and script examples can be maintained.  I want it to be an organized guide though with all the info in the first few posts, not buried in a hodgepodge of people chiming in with random tidbits and questions.

Howard_Casto

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I figured as such.  It's bad timing on my part really.  When everyone was raring to go and snowed in, I got sick.  Now that I'm better everyone has real world obligations again.  ;)


Honestly I've got to mess with outrun a bit myself to figure out the best implementation.  Mamehooker wasn't this far along when I started on that driver those years ago.  ;)

hiljak

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Hey guys,  great thread!!  I'm just getting into the build/conversion of my stand-up Sega Outrun cab I picked-up for $50.00 a few weeks back.  This has been a great resource for me so far.  I ended up buying the Ultimarc A-pac to interface my steering wheel and pedal pots and I'm not happy with it.  I can't get it to work with Outrun 2 Coast to Coast PC version.  Is the U-HID a better choice?  There isn't much information out there about it as far as I can find.  I don't mind spending the money on it if its good.

My so far has had all the original guts removed, I cut about 10" or so of depth off the back of the cab, installed a 24" LCD and a pretty decent computer (i7-4770 Haswel proc, 8GB RAM, and GTX 560-TI 1GB card.  Windows 7 x64.  I have a thread going at vpforums in the Mame section but plan to make a build thread here as well. 

BadMouth

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Hey guys,  great thread!!  I'm just getting into the build/conversion of my stand-up Sega Outrun cab I picked-up for $50.00 a few weeks back.  This has been a great resource for me so far.  I ended up buying the Ultimarc A-pac to interface my steering wheel and pedal pots and I'm not happy with it.  I can't get it to work with Outrun 2 Coast to Coast PC version.  Is the U-HID a better choice?  There isn't much information out there about it as far as I can find.  I don't mind spending the money on it if its good.



Outrun Coast to Coast can be annoying to set up, but the APAC should work.
The big thing I remember is that at some point it asks you to press either enter or confirm, but it wants you to press a different button than you've used in every other screen.  Search the forum.  There might be a better explanation somewhere. 

Also, a lot of the old PC games prefer the pedals to both be on the same axis.  This is why the menus will scroll without you touching the controls in some games.  If the pedals are combined, it doesn't. 
There is a way to wire the pedal potentiometers to one input to accomplish this, but I don't have a diagram handy.

The U-HID wouldn't be any different than the A-Pac.

hiljak

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Well you are pretty spot on because when I first tried to set it up (Outrun C2C), I had the auto scrolling going on.  I did change the wiring on the A-pac so the steering wheel was on the "first" A-pac controller, then the two pedals are X and Y on the "Second" A-pac controller.  That stopped the scrolling but when I went to setup the controls, I can select steering wheel then move the wheel and it sees the axis but there is no way to confirm.  I had to alt-F4 out of the game.  I figured it was something buggy with the A-pac.  I'll search the forums more for that.  Thanks for the tip

BadMouth

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Well you are pretty spot on because when I first tried to set it up (Outrun C2C), I had the auto scrolling going on.  I did change the wiring on the A-pac so the steering wheel was on the "first" A-pac controller, then the two pedals are X and Y on the "Second" A-pac controller.  That stopped the scrolling but when I went to setup the controls, I can select steering wheel then move the wheel and it sees the axis but there is no way to confirm.  I had to alt-F4 out of the game.  I figured it was something buggy with the A-pac.  I'll search the forums more for that.  Thanks for the tip

You just have to find the right button to confirm.  It's a different one than the button that is used for confirm in every other menu.
I think it might be called select instead.  IIRC it was the right paddle shifter for me.  I'm not sure which button that would be on the ipac, but they're both direct input devices, so it should work the same.

Having them show up as separate controllers is probably going to be an issue on some older games.

What sucks is that having combined pedals doesn't work on Model 2 emulator which is THE emulator to have in a driving cab.
You could probably work around it using x360ce and enabling xinput in emulator.ini since you don't have force feedback anyway.
Actually it's still possible to have rumble, which might work out with an Outrun wheel.

flash951

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Hi and thanks for all the information you provide here. I'm about to finish to restore a upright Final Lap cabinet that was in really bad shape. I've rebuilt it to a general cab and fitted separate brake and accelerator, sequence shifter, start button and four "view" buttons. One of my all time favorites are Outrun., but I've got problems with the pedal setup for this one in MAME. When I setup the pedals as analogue, Outrun seems to recognize the Pedal as half way pressed, when it's not pressed. So the car will always accelerate about 50% of max, without stepping on it. Do you have any idea?

« Last Edit: August 10, 2014, 07:40:03 pm by flash951 »

BadMouth

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Hi and thanks for all the information you provide here. I'm about to finish to restore a upright Final Lap cabinet that was in really bad shape. I've rebuilt it to a general cab and fitted separate brake and accelerator, sequence shifter, start button and four "view" buttons. One of my all time favorites are Outrun., but I've got problems with the pedal setup for this one in MAME. When I setup the pedals as analogue, Outrun seems to recognize the Pedal as half way pressed, when it's not pressed. So the car will always accelerate about 50% of max, without stepping on it. Do you have any idea?

What type of pedals or interface are you using?

Sounds like a combined/separate axis pedal issue
or just not having the game calibrated in the service menu of the game.

flash951

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I have "standard" 5k pot pedals on separate axis. I use A-pac. Is there an in-game calibration within Outrun in MAME?
 

BadMouth

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I have "standard" 5k pot pedals on separate axis. I use A-pac. Is there an in-game calibration within Outrun in MAME?

In nearly all the driving games in MAME, you will need to enter the service menu to calibrate the controls.
For most games it's just a matter of pressing the service button (default in MAME is F2) and then figuring out how the original controls were used to navigate the menu (varies by game)

On some older games, there a DIP switch would need to be flipped before turning on the game.  In the MAME menu, there is a DIP switch settings section.  Flip the switch in there, restart the game, make your adjustments, then flip the switch back off so next time the game starts it doesn't go into service mode again.

flash951

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I can't get Outrun to work right with the pedals, the values from the pedals seems fine in the in-game "service" menu though. I've now set Outrun to use the pedals as digital, that works fine. I think it's hard to notice when playing that the pedals are set as digital, so I'm pleased with that for now. I also tested Spy Hunter in MAME, it seems to work well. In M2 emulator I've tested Sega Championship Rally and Indianapolis 500, both worked perfectly with analogue steering and pedals.     
« Last Edit: August 11, 2014, 07:12:49 pm by flash951 »

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There are also settings within the mame menu itself... analog settings.  You have to set them while the game is unpaused and yes, you have to do it individiually for every single game that's giving your trouble.

flash951

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I can still not get Outrun to work with analogue pedals, not even with only one pedal.

flash951

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Thanks for help. Outrun would simply not work with analogue, even when setup up just one single pedal. But digital is OK for now.
« Last Edit: August 12, 2014, 09:35:27 am by flash951 »

BadMouth

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Thanks for help. Outrun would simply not work with analogue, even when setup up just one single pedal. But digital is OK for now.

It will work.  See the notes about setting up analog controls in MAME at the beginning of this thread.
The most common mistakes are having the controls mapped to both the Axis and INC/DEC or needing to invert the pedals.

flash951

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Steering: mapped to Controller 1 - x-axis
Accel: mapped to Controller 1 - y-axis
Break: mapped to Controller 2 - y-axis
I have tested invert of course. The problems seems to be that Outrun thinks the Accel is half way down (in the center), when not pressed.



Howard_Casto

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The mapping doesn't work that way.  Because pedals and brakes are half axis, you map half of the axis to the game.  Aka in mame's settings Accel should be mapped to Y axis + and Brake should be Y Axis -    If it's just showing x axis or y axis without a "+" or "-" then the full axis is mapped and that's your problem.  Do it in-game via the pedals themselves. 

flash951

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That's it, thanks a lot. I didn't knew the possibility to set half axis in MAME. Now it works very well. To have analog pedals felt much better when playing, a whole other feel.

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Hey Bad Mouth,

Hoping you can help.........

Just setting up My G27 with Model 2 and Super Model Emulators (not that I can get FFB in super model to work :badmood:)...... In "Global Device Settings" (Logitech profiler), I've set "overall strength effects" to 150% and for games like Daytona and Indy 500, its perfect, but when I play Sega Rally, at start up the wheel is constantly shaking. In the game Over Rev, in the turns, the wheel has a light judder.

Have you come across these effects before, if so, do you have a fix?

Cheers

Sega Mad

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everyone has that problem with Sega Rally
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sega_mad

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Oh......so no fix then??

I fixed Over Rev by adjusting "centering Spring Strength" to 150% as well

Was wondering if there is a way to tell the Logitech Profiler to change the settings for Daytona and Indy 500 (overall effects strength to 150%), and keep all other games at 100%

Cheers
« Last Edit: October 23, 2014, 09:18:27 pm by sega_mad »

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I have a Logitech G27 and I would like to play Pole Position.

When playing in MAME v151 it does this weird reset in the middle of the turns?
Let's say I turn my wheel 90 degrees to the right and the car follows. Midway through it's like it resets or something because when I return to center the car will turn 90 degrees to the left, while my wheel is centered?

Is there any way that I can play Pole Position with this wheel?

BadMouth

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I have a Logitech G27 and I would like to play Pole Position.

When playing in MAME v151 it does this weird reset in the middle of the turns?
Let's say I turn my wheel 90 degrees to the right and the car follows. Midway through it's like it resets or something because when I return to center the car will turn 90 degrees to the left, while my wheel is centered?

Is there any way that I can play Pole Position with this wheel?

No.  Pole position was designed to have a wheel that spins endlessly with no specific center point.
Personally I'd like to see the MAME Devs hack it or someone to release an alternative build of MAME hacked to make it playable with limited rotation wheels.

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Re: Emulator/Driving Cab info thread - Beginners start here!
« Reply #113 on: October 29, 2015, 12:04:53 pm »

I have a Logitech G27 and I would like to play Pole Position.

When playing in MAME v151 it does this weird reset in the middle of the turns?
Let's say I turn my wheel 90 degrees to the right and the car follows. Midway through it's like it resets or something because when I return to center the car will turn 90 degrees to the left, while my wheel is centered?

Is there any way that I can play Pole Position with this wheel?

No.  Pole position was designed to have a wheel that spins endlessly with no specific center point.
Personally I'd like to see the MAME Devs hack it or someone to release an alternative build of MAME hacked to make it playable with limited rotation wheels.

Just a quick post....
I recently hacked an old PC steering wheel with an optical mouse. The wheel now spins infinitely and allows me to play all 360 type games as they were intended. Plus the latest mice are wireless. I removed the mouse pcb and fixed it near to the steering wheel mount. I placed a circular disc on the wheel shaft and as this turns it tricks the mouse into thinking it's moving on the y axis. Works very well and I found a program that allows automatically speed changes per mouse when you move it. That way you can control its sensitivity.

BadMouth

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Re: Emulator/Driving Cab info thread - Beginners start here!
« Reply #114 on: January 07, 2016, 03:52:25 pm »
Anyone want to chip in their 2 cents about how I can improve the guide in the first few posts of this thread?

I think it's too information dense and some of it may not be necessary.
I'm thinking about just deleting the PC games section, or limiting it to a link to configuring Crazy Taxi and a link to Howards Outrun FXT thread.

Also thinking about deleting the history of driving games videos.  I feel like the thread starts going off the tracks at the PC games (which are outdated) and runs all the way off them at the video.
I think the stuff below there about cab dimensions and hacking original controls is more important IMO.

Is the stuff about hacking original controls understandable?
I don't think noobs follow it very well.

EDIT: Never mind.  Made some changes.  Moved the videos to the end.  I'm much happier with it now.
« Last Edit: January 07, 2016, 07:34:43 pm by BadMouth »

baritonomarchetto

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Re: Emulator/Driving Cab info thread - Beginners start here!
« Reply #115 on: January 15, 2016, 12:58:24 am »
It looks good to me. Please, change the racermame version to 0.160 and note that it includes groovymame paches now ;)

Howard_Casto

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Re: Emulator/Driving Cab info thread - Beginners start here!
« Reply #116 on: January 27, 2016, 01:37:18 am »
Man you are right.  Once you sticky something it totally gets ignored... by me at least. 

Looks great, a lot more organized.  My only suggestion would be to change the cannonball link to http://reassembler.blogspot.com/ instead of GitHub. 
The reason being is that will give people access to the layout editor and the site has other useful stuff on it including the best outrun restoration I've ever seen in my entire life. 

Batchman

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Re: Emulator/Driving Cab info thread - Beginners start here!
« Reply #117 on: June 30, 2016, 10:49:25 pm »
Um ... it's not on either the 270 or 360 list ... anybody know which kind of game (I'm guessing 360) Turbo is?

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Re: Emulator/Driving Cab info thread - Beginners start here!
« Reply #118 on: July 01, 2016, 12:50:35 am »
Um ... it's not on either the 270 or 360 list ... anybody know which kind of game (I'm guessing 360) Turbo is?
It's a 360 (optical) per the 360 steering wheel (optical) games list (WIP) in the wiki and confirmed via a picture of the back of a Turbo control panel.


Scott

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Re: Emulator/Driving Cab info thread - Beginners start here!
« Reply #119 on: July 01, 2016, 02:08:39 am »
Thanks for the info ... some day I'll hopefully do a build that will let me play this and Pole Position, and I'll be pretty happy ... I think.

  
 

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