Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Asteroids Restoration (hopefully:)
Crayola:
So good news.. I started with the fuses on the monitor and power brick..
I found two bad on the power brick using the multimeter.
Can I get 7-amp 250v 3ag slow blow fuses somewhere local?
Auto parts stores? Those are all 12v..I think.
Both the 7 amp fuses were blown on the fuse block. Looking at the schematic.. all the juice for the
PCB goes through those.
When I power it up the monitor neck glows and the red LED on the monitor board lights up.
Zero output on the screen but I wouldnt expect any since the monitor isnt getting signals
The coin doors light.. those run on 6.5 volts it appears.. odd voltage for a small incandescent light.
Not sure why the marquee isnt lit.. probably something dumb like a bulb or a starter.
Going to change that next.
.. Yep bad starter and bulb. Replaced both and it lit right up. I checked out the marquee. Its perfect from a paint job point of view. All the paint is there and its vibrant. However on the other side the plexi has some scratches I can feel with my fingernail. Would novus 3 work on those? They aren't gouges.. just scratches. Any suggestions to remove them otherwise?
So how can I tell what version AR board I have in this thing? I cant find any markings
that say AR 1 to 6. I want to buy a rebuild kit from Bob Roberts.
The cabinet number is 24,619 BTW. Found it stamped on the AR board and the monitor chassis
Crayola
Crayola:
So I bought a rebuild kit for the AR board and power supply from Bob roberts.. That guy rocks!
I was able to find a really good assortment of fuses at home depot. fast and slow blow.
I replaced the fuses and powered up. I coined up and blammo! The game is alive! Although the
monitor is not. I can totally play the game blind and everything seems to work well.
Now to tackle the monitor. I already checked all the fuses. The neck glows and the red light on
the deflection board is lit. I also noticed that once I replaced those power supply fuses and powered up, there
was a small speck of light in the middle of the monitor. If fact looking really carefully... there is
actually a tiny spot burned in right where it is (visible when the monitor is off). After I powered
off (quickly) I noticed it took a while to go away.. faded out slowly. I guess this is the spot killer
I have read about? What I read said to trun up the brightness all the way to tell
which part of the deflection circuit is having a problem. So I found the brightness and turned it
all up.. nothing.. nadda. A big bright light in the middle but no faint game image. I'm guessing both the X and Y
is bad on the deflection board or the game isnt sending a signal.
The monitor is a Atari Quadrascan 92-047.. thats an Electrohome G05-802 right?
Any suggestions on where to get next? I've never messed with monitors before so this is
new territory but I know what and what not to touch (aware of danger).
Crayola
Crayola:
So I found tha manual for the monitor at
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Atari%20Monitor%20TM-151%20Issue%203%20Electrohome%20G05-802%20G05-805%20Monochrome%20XY.pdf
Look like the LED being on on the monitor board isnt a good thing. It indicates that the spot killer is active
and it thinks no signal is present.
I'm guessing back to Bob roberts for a cap kit and discharge tool at this point.
Crayola
Crayola:
I test the PCB and AR board a bit. The X/Y test points on the PCB board show up and down movement
+5/-5 so that looks good. Looks like the board is sending a signal. I am going to check the harness
next for X/Y movement. The AR board is showing 5.3v and 11.4v at the sense points.
I need to find someone in NJ with an oscilloscope I can use to verify their is good output from the PCB.
Know anyone in NJ who might be able to help?
Crayola
Crayola:
I also checked the Z sense point on the PCB.. it was flucuating from .6v to .8v but mostly staying
at .6v I am not sure if this is good or not but at least the is output and voltage movement
so I assume its good.
The KLOV guys suggested Reflowing the deflection board. I and going to wait until the cap kit
kit gets here from bob roberts and do it all at once.
Crayola
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