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Gamesomnia - inspired by Knievel's Woody Cab
ragnar:
--- Quote from: Rick on September 16, 2010, 03:27:58 pm ---
--- Quote from: ragnar on September 16, 2010, 02:51:41 pm ---I'm considering another option which I dread the thought of. Skipping the marquee altogether and putting a piece of oak in its place.
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You're going to need a stronger light.
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Really? I think I just grabbed the smallest one thinking it would be sufficient. Well, there goes $15.
EDIT: long day. I get the joke now ;D Well played.
ragnar:
--- Quote from: javeryh on September 16, 2010, 04:50:18 pm ---
--- Quote from: ragnar on September 16, 2010, 09:37:09 am ---
--- Quote from: javeryh on September 15, 2010, 08:07:08 pm ---Hmmm.... I like what you did with the overlay. Also, I noticed you did not mitre the bottom of your CP box? Is it visible at all? I'm going to be recutting mine for the THIRD time because I can't seem to get the joints to line up but now I'm wondering if it is worth it.
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The bottom of the box is mitred unless I miss your meaning.
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It looks like the bottom panel to your CP box is not mitred but maybe I'm not seeing it properly. Here is a shot of mine upsidedown. There are no edges showing on the plywood because I mitred the 4 side panels and the bottom panel:
Don't get me started - I didn't sand the thing properly and when I went to stain it it came out terrible so I had to make another one.
:banghead:
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Oh, that piece. Ya, it is a bit loose fitting. Ijust hinged it on one side for easy access. I can explain it in detial if you'd like. But it is inset into the box a bit so you don't actually see that piece. I'm actually going to post some pictures hopefully tonight and you'll see hwo it went together a bit more.
ragnar:
Been gone all week on travel for work. Anyways, I have the cabinet almost totally done. I have to do the marquee and speaker grill and that is it. I have alot of pictures that I need to upload hopefully this weekend. If anyone has requests for pics, let me know.
Two comments on the CP.
--- 1 ---
9 button PRO:
N64 emulation is greatly aided by the 9 buttons.
9 button CON:
Sometimes your fingers fall off of the buttons you need for a game and there is no "feel" for you to tell. I can see how 6 or 7 buttons have an advantage in this area.
I plan on drilling a dent into the center button for each player. This way, placing fingers where they should be without looking is easier. This is kinda like the bump on the 'f' and 'j' keys on computer keyboards. f and j on my keyboard anyways.
--- 2 ---
The other mess up, though minor, is that my left joystick could have been farther left. Not the end of the world though. I did the joy center 5-1/4" from the left edge. I could have done 4-1/2" with no problems.
ragnar:
Finally, some shots of the current progress.
This post has a few shots of the control panel innards. Also, I wired the admin panel as follows. I made 2-3 foot wires with female attachments to connect to the microswitch. On the other end of the wire is a quick connector and labeled tag (for example, P1 start with a female connector). The control panel has wires coming out of it that have the corresponding connector and label (for example, P1 start with a male connector). So, one the CP is installed it is easy to make the final connections to all buttons that are exterior to the control panel.
The other shot in this post is of the fan at the top of the cabinet. I did not plan properly so I could not use screws to attach the fan. The solution? Some cotter pins that I had in the basement. They are probably over 30 years old. I wouldn't doubt it if they were 50 years old. They were my dads. So, I got the cotter pins in the holes as needed and bent. It actually holds the fan in place surprisingly well. Just as tight as if I would have used screws.
ragnar:
A closeup of the marquee. It is important to know that you have to plan this part out. For most of the cabinet, I used 2x2s as cleats. if I did that in the marquee area I would have had some strange shadows in the corners. So, it is important to use L brackets here.
A pic of the monitor bezel to show how it looks with the curved side. Also, I think I used a 10 degree slant. I can measure it upon request but the angle turns out to be just about perfect.
Another shot of the cabinet and a final shot of the door with hinges. Those are your full inset cabinet hinges.