The problem is when the games' GI POWERESAVER feature kicks in at a level of 4-5-or-6 the LEDs don't work, until, of course, you start a game or press a cabinet button and the game returns to full brightness.
since we are using low current LED's, why even use the GI powersaver?!
really, the only reason that it is there for is to increase the lifespan of the bulbs, and (later) the GI wiring in a 100% duty cycle of a route game. since theoretically LED's should last umpteen amounts of hours before failure, it seems unnecessary now.
go ahead and check your power draw on the GI circuit, it's probably less than 1/2 of the original in any given string.
likely your "blinker" LED's have additional circuitry in the LED itself to facilitate the "blink", that circuitry fails when the power is cycled during the GI "powersaver" it is a really rough sine wave chop deal that is kinda stupid if you feel so inclined do a google on "zero cross circuit" basically it detects when the AC power is at the "0" volt point in the sine wave and cuts the power for a determined count of cycles before allowing the power to run again. having the power more off than on produces the "dim" effect.
even regular LED's are kind of picky when it comes to their current and voltage. the GI "powersaver" introduces seemingly random pulsed positive and negative voltage stream (measured in cycles per second.)... not intended for LED's... (since they have a polarity and will only operate in one energy flow direction) The "powersaver" duty cycle doesn't account for this due to the fact LED's have a polarity and regular bulbs don't. (they will operate in normal and reverse energy flow just fine.)
in order to properly drive LED's in a reduced duty cycle would require a far more sophisticated switching cycle than the 60hz "wave choppin" duty cycling the GI "powersaver"