Badmouth's Redline Racer - Totalled

[gbeef]

looking good. im considering Hacking my 4way shifter to a 6 way.
very nice progress so far what are you planning on doing with the G27?

[BadMouth]

Had a go with this cp and Model 2 emulator on the laptop.
The feedback is acting weird when not in a game.
If automatic centering is disabled, the motor drifts slowly to the left until reaching the stop.
I assume it is still being sent power, but just can't travel any farther.
I reduced the input gain, but all it did was make ffb weaker.

When automatic centering is enabled, it gets rid of that problem, but the wheel will shake faintly until you grab it.
It doesn't effect gameplay, but I don't want the motor burning up while it's sitting and not being used. 
Guess I'll have to figure out what all those dip switches and adjustments on the servo amp do.
Maybe a solution there 

im considering Hacking my 4way shifter to a 6 way.

If you do, let us know how it's done!

what are you planning on doing with the G27?

Right now I'm using it at my desk with iRacing.com.
They currently have a 3 months for $12 special, so I figured it was worth a try.
It's better than I thought it would be, but it's very involved.  I think I'd enjoy it if I had spare time to devote to it, but as it stands I can't invest the practice time required to get good enough to race other people.  I also like to keep my recurring bills to a minimum.
Maybe after all my projects are done (which will never happen). 

[gbeef]

Try nfs shift or dirt 2 if you can run them iracing too sim

[BadMouth]

Try nfs shift or dirt 2 if you can run them iracing too sim

I have Dirt 2 on the cab, but I've only played it a couple times.  
I was on a pc game kick last month and bought more than a half dozen of them.
(bit of pokerom syndrome)  I keep telling myself that whenever everything else is "done", I'll enjoy the games.
Grid has been on there for months and I've only made it through a couple races.  

However, I did spend over an hour last night trying to beat all three tracks on Sega Rally.  
I still can't get through the last one before time runs out.  

In other news, I think I finally settled on a concept for the cab.
It's going to take its name and artwork from what is supposedly the worst car movie ever made, but I like the name and the artwork.

The name is also used by a ton of companies, so there are other decals and logos out there.
I found this one from a band that I really like.  Might have to borrow it.


I ordered the movie in case there is any more artwork in the extras.
The plan is to make it look like it was a game made by SEGA.

[jsb98]

The plan is to make it look like it was a game made by SEGA.

So you're gonna make it look like crap? 

Just kidding, looks really cool. Good work.

[gbeef]

Hey i found a solution to your button problem cut the button. I have the same ones as you i ran into the same issue there too long. I removed 1/4 inch from them. But the trick is you need to cut them at the base of the button and remove the section right in the middle after your done you need to re-glue everything back together.
Ill post pics in my thread to show you.

[BadMouth]

working on a new MALA layout around the RedLine theme....
Still a WIP, but getting close to what I want.
I plan to use video snaps, but have to make them first.  

EDIT: Updated MALA layout image.  This is pretty much final except for maybe making a frame for the gamelist name above the preview window.
(California Speed is the longest game title in my list, next to Ivan Ironman Stewarts Super Offroad Track Pack.  I didn't feel the need to acommodate the latter)

[dexxy]

Very Nice mala theme and artwork.   Awesome project so far.   I'm going to be starting my driving cab soon so I'm getting lots of inspiration from you and gbeef!

[BadMouth]

Very Nice mala theme and artwork.   Awesome project so far.   I'm going to be starting my driving cab soon so I'm getting lots of inspiration from you and gbeef!

Thanks!  Can't wait to see another driving cab started.
(also can't wait to see gbeef's cab with artwork)
If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
I've made most mistakes already.

This evening's minor progress.....

Got a friend to cut the dash panel with the steering hole centered. 

Applied the carbon fiber vinyl and hate it.    (only spent $8 on it and already peeled it off, so not really that upset)
I'd like it better if it were darker, but the dash would still be too plain.
So I guess I'm making artwork for a dashboard and view button panel also.
None of this would be necessary if I'd noticed the Outrun 2 dash had the steering wheel off center. 

The steering wheel is mounted to a 3 to 6 hole adapter which is mounted to a quick release, part of which needs to be welded on yet. 
Eventually I'll be able to pop this wheel off and pop on a different one for 360 degree games.  I've got the general idea in my head, but it will take some time to work out.  Same goes for the paddle shifters.  Idea is in my head, but have to find some materials to re-purpose.

[TopJimmyCooks]

Where'd you get Cf vinyl for $8?  was it 3M dinoc or a flat print? 

[BadMouth]

Where'd you get Cf vinyl for $8?  was it 3M dinoc or a flat print? 

Ordered it off fleabay from a seller in Hong Kong.  (was actually $8 + $4 shipping.  I was thinking shipping was included)
It was the only thing I could find that looked as glossy as I wanted.
There's no texture.  It's not name brand, but seems to be pretty tought stuff.
It doesn't get much more flexible when heated.  I wouldn't use it on anything but flat survaces.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Gloss-Carbon-Fiber-Vinyl-50-X-12-G291-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a6871725fQQitemZ250860368479QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[Malenko]

I kinda like it on the bezel, on the dash is a bit much. I thought you were gonna hook up a real radio in the radio hole.

Why not get some working gauges to put in the dash? like a voltimeter, temp gauge etc that could work with a PC

[TopJimmyCooks]

Thanks for the info.   

[BadMouth]

I kinda like it on the bezel, on the dash is a bit much. I thought you were gonna hook up a real radio in the radio hole.

Wasn't me.  Somebody told gbeef to put an 8-track there.  
The "radio hole" is only about 1.5" deep and has two layers of extremely thick metal behind it that are probably needed for strength.
It would be cool to have a panel with a fake radio that housed a dvd drive and controlled the volume, but there just isn't room for it on this dash.

Why not get some working gauges to put in the dash? like a voltimeter, temp gauge etc that could work with a PC

 

There isn't any depth behind the dash.  The steel frame, happ bracket, feedback motor etc is behind there.
I'm also trying to keep the number of connections between the cp and the cab to a minimum.

It's an arcade machine.  I'm ok with fake gauges.

[BadMouth]

WARNING, LONGWINDED AND PROBABLY IRRELEVANT UNLESS YOU'RE GEARING UP TO BUILD A DRIVING CAB AND HACKING AN OPTICAL WHEEL OR GOING FOR 270 DEGREE AND 360 DEGREE SUPPORT.

A few longtime members have mentioned that they were gearing up to build driving cabs.
I thought I'd throw some information, random ideas, & warnings out there.
(mostly random long-winded rambling...and you might not follow it if you haven't read my driving cab and wheel hacking threads)

The main thing is that I don't want anyone copying the way I'm doing my current CP without knowing about it's shortcomings and kinks that I haven't worked out yet.


OPTICAL PC WHEEL HACK:

First up, if you're using real arcade controls, the newer PC optical wheel hack is a PITA to setup and have calibrate correctly.  
Hacking a potentiometer based wheel is so much easier (just swap out the pot).

If you go the optical route though, the trick is that the onscreen stops in the windows controller setting must correspond to the real life stops for the wheel to
calibrate properly.  This is accomplished by having the perfect encoder wheel or having the stops in the right place.
I ended up with neither, so here's the ugly hack to correct it:

The bolts act as the stops now and are built up so the physical stops correspond with the stops on screen.
Not as much rotation was lost as it looks like.  Maybe 1-1.5" in each direction.  It still feels like a 270 degree wheel.
I checked with US digital about ordering a different encoder wheel for my optical encoder, but they said that the sensors are spaced differently for different wheels
and would have to be replaced too.  The total cost was as much as a new encoder.  This mess works, but I'd like it done a better way.
I'm currently using a 900CPR encoder.  I think my original guess of 600CPR would have been closer.  Maybe it's something in between?  I give up for now.

Even if I had the perfect encoder, my happ wheel turned farther in one direction than the other?!
The original happ parts are slotted so the center position of the wheel can't be changed. It still would have required a bumper added to one side for the wheel to
center properly after calibrating.  I'm using a weld-on fixture for a real steering wheel, so if I had the perfect encoder wheel or were using a potentiometer, I could just weld it at the correct center point between the two stops, even if they were asymetrical.  It currently calibrates and works fine, but I'd like to redo it a better way at some point.

The super expensive FREX GP wheel uses a screw drive with a plate that moves forward and backward as the wheel is spun.
It has a bolt on each end that act as the stop.  The bolts can be screwed in or out to adjust the limits.
I think this would be the way to go about hacking a G27 and allow for it's 900 degrees of rotation.  
In fact the newer FREX GPs use a logitech G27 PCB.



SERVO AMP FOR ARCADE FFB MOTOR

Others have used this method (Mark Shaker and thesharkfactor). See the driving cab thread for links.
For the most part it's working as it should, but I am having a couple issues...

If I don't enable centering FFB, the wheel drifts to the left until it reaches the stops.
If I do enable it, upon startup the wheel will shake slightly left and right until I grab it, at which point is stops.
Not sure if it's just bouncing itself past the center point and correcting for it or what.

Out of the box, the FFB doesn't feel as correct as the original PC wheel.  It could just be that everything is magnified and stronger, therefore more noticeable.
I had to spend a fair amount of time tweaking the FFB settings in Model 2 emulator to get it to feel right.



360/270 DEGREE COMBO THOUGHTS

This is my holy grail, but I'm torn between a few different ways of going about it.
I was hoping that the optical pc wheel hack might lead to one optical encoder doing double duty by simultaneously sending signals to both the hacked pc wheel and a
different interface for 360 degrees.  This won't work, as the pc wheel recalibrates whenever the wheel travels past where the stops should be and messes up the center
point.

One idea if using a potentiometer based wheel is to use a continuous rotation pot.  It's just like a regular pot, but doesn't have internal stops.
Granted if you turn the wheel farther than 360 degrees, it will suddenly be seen as being all the way in the opposite direction.  A physical stop that's only in place
for 270 degree games could prevent that.  Add an optical encoder wheel in there somewhere and you've got it doing double duty.
Next time around, I'm considering using a slip ring and a hollow steering shaft.  This would allowfor buttons and paddle shifters on a 360 degree wheel.  The Happ steering shaft is stepped up and down in size between 5/8" & 3/4".  It's 5/8" for the most part, but steps up to 3/4" between where the wheel bolts on and it enters the bearing.  This keeps everything spaced correctly.  The bearing could be swapped out for one with a 3/4" center to allow for the 3/4" hollow shaft linked to.  (More ideas than time or money)

My current plan (which might change) is to have two different wheels that attach via a quick-release steering hub.
The 270 degree wheel will be a modern wheel with buttons and paddle shifters.  
The 360 degree wheel will be an old school chrome 3-spoke model, preferably with evenly spaced spokes so there isn't a discernable center point.
(although the wheel used on Pole Position had a definite center point, which is odd since the center point in the game is reset to the wheel's current position whenever you crash) This will require me to have some kind of disconnect for the wiring in the wheel.
I've thought about making the 360 wheel self contained, based on a wireless mouse.
I might want to have it wired though, allowing that axis to be used for yoke/star wars type controls if I want to add them later.
The yoke from Hyperdrive would probably work well for Star Wars, STUN Runner, and futuristic racing games that require a Y axis.
There are also some console racing games like XGRA that require a Y axis.
I also considered adding a flight stick that flips up from under the seat, but after testing it out found that I just didn't like any of the fighter jet games enough to bother with it.

 
VIEW/RADIO BUTTONS

The sega Model 2 games had 4 view buttons.
The Cruis'n games had 3 view buttons and a radio button.
So 4 buttons will cover you if that's all you have room for.

OTHER THOUGHTS:

I've always been curious about hacking the Thrustmaster RGT FFB Clutch
It claims to have 5 axis.  Two of the paddles are analogue and can double as the gas and brake if the pedals aren't connected.
It would be nice to get all the controls seen as a single controller.  The U-HID can handle this, but lacks force feedback.
I'm not sure if this wheel is potentiometer or optical based or if thrustmaster has software similar to logitech profiler (which has been beyond useful when setting up other emulators).

[BurgerKingDiamond]

I like the plain stainless for the dash.

[gbeef]

Very nice on the carbon fiber work.

[BadMouth]

I like the plain stainless for the dash.

It's aluminum.  I considered trying to polish it, but it would still look pretty plain.

Very nice on the carbon fiber work.

That particular vinyl turned out to be too light and too checkerboard looking for me.
I ordered the 3M stuff TopJimmyCooks mentioned.  I think I might like the look of it better.
Was cheap and only ordered 1 square ft.  
As long as I don't mess it up, that's all I'll need.

To keep it from looking too plain, I'm going to mount real LEDs in the places where the original sega panel had drawn ones.
They shouldn't require hardly any depth if I use bare LEDs.
I also picked up some translucent red and carbon fiber toggle switch covers.

Since I have umpteen unused connections on the key-wiz, I thought about installing a few momentary toggle switches (return to center), then labelling them as brake bias +/- etc and mapping them as such in racing sims.  Not sure I'd ever use them though.

This CP is as much experimentation as anything.  I still have a lot of ideas floating around.  Not sure where it will end up.
The new MALA layout looks like crap on the CRT TV currently in the cab.  The game list is unreadable.  
(My current layout that uses different colors and bigger fonts looks fine)

I had a spare 32" LCD TV that I thinking about using, but decided to install it behind my bar as a 2nd TV for football season.  

[BadMouth]

I like the 3M stuff much better.......

It's all one color, but textured.  It's also perforated, so no chasing out air bubbles.

I came across the white lottery machine buttons cheap, so I bought them to make sure they'd work.
They'll be replaced by colored ones eventually, but the regular price is $12/button.  
The white doesn't look bad with the white gauges, maybe I'll learn to like it better.

Need to get to work on the buttons and decal for the top section.

[drventure]

Nice. I think once you put decals in the white buttons, they'll look quite nice with that dash...

[Nephasth]

That's looking great! Have you thought about using colored LEDs for those white buttons?

[BadMouth]

That's looking great! Have you thought about using colored LEDs for those white buttons?

Thought about it, but figured it would result in pastel colors.   
I actually already have the colored LEDs, so it's no trouble to try it.

The standard bulbs in my current buttons get pretty warm.
Nothing to worry about, but I wanted to use LEDs this time around.
Bought colored ones because I thought it would illuminate the colored buttons more evenly.

[BadMouth]

Hadn't messed with the new CP for a few weeks because the way I had the steering stops done just wasn't acceptable.
(see pic a few posts back)
I didn't want to put any more work into it if was going to be inferior to what I already have.
The upcoming release of Supermodel emulator v2 motivated me to get back on it.

I bought a digital protractor and measured how much travel the wheel had with those stops (243 degrees) and that allowed me to calculate what encoder I would need to use the full 270 degrees.  Oddly enough, the original happ stops allow for exactly 270 degrees.  It came out to exactly 800CPR, which I thought was too even of a number to be correct. 
US Digital doesn't offer that resolution, but I was lucky enough to find one on ebay for a decent price.  I hooked it up this evening and the wheel is dead on perfect with the original happ stops.  I won't have to build them up, grind them down, or anything.  It's back to the full 270 degrees.

I now feel confident recommending the momo hack if you can get your hands on an 800CPR encoder (hacking a potentiometer based wheel is still easier, but they're getting harder to find).


The other issue I had that was taking the wind out of my sails was the odd behavior of the FFB.  If the centering spring were disabled, the wheel would slowly drift to one side until it hit the stops.  Also when the centering spring was enabled, it felt slightly harder to turn in one direction than the other.   I decided to fiddle with some of the adjustments on the servo amp that I don't really understand.  Adjusting the TEST/OFFSET pot got rid of both these issues.   

So I got the full 270 degree range back and arcade strength FFB is a go! 

[SNAAKE]

digging that carbon fiber vinyl thingy(is that what its called lol?)

[NiN^_^NiN]

Fantastic job so far good to see you pushed to sort the issues out.
Wish i could have FFB on mine.

I do love the carbon fiber it works very well and i actually like the white button it's a nice contract I think if you had some icons under them it would blend in better than the coloured buttons.

Great job so far can't wait to see it progress even more 

[Rick]

OMG, I love this build!!!  And you've given me inspiration for one of my future builds as well...  ...when I get more room.     (If all works out, might have a gameroom in the next few years - fingers crossed!)  I would totally build a driving cab around KITT.  The repro dash and steering are easy enough to find, and the buttons on the console would be pretty simple to get working.  (OMG, imagine Spy Hunter with working triggers on the steering.  Unreal.)

Sorry - I just don't think I've ever seen a driving cab with as much cool as yours.  It's amazing.  (So much so, that it seems to make me go on and on.)

 

[BadMouth]

OMG, I love this build!!!  And you've given me inspiration for one of my future builds as well...  ...when I get more room.     (If all works out, might have a gameroom in the next few years - fingers crossed!)  I would totally build a driving cab around KITT.  The repro dash and steering are easy enough to find, and the buttons on the console would be pretty simple to get working.  (OMG, imagine Spy Hunter with working triggers on the steering.  Unreal.)

Sorry - I just don't think I've ever seen a driving cab with as much cool as yours.  It's amazing.  (So much so, that it seems to make me go on and on.)

 

um....it's still just a repainted VO cab with a pc wheel and sf rush pedals implanted.
After I finish this CP, it will be a VO cab with an Outrun 2 dash in it. 
I think the people who built their cabs from scratch deserve a lot more credit than me. 

When I get the paddle shifters and swappable 360 degree wheel finished, then I'll have something to be proud of. 
I'm currently working on the paddle shifters and it's going well.  I should have something to show by tonight.

[Rick]

um....it's still just a repainted VO cab with a pc wheel and sf rush pedals implanted.
After I finish this CP, it will be a VO cab with an Outrun 2 dash in it.    I think the people who built their cabs from scratch deserve a lot more credit than me.  When I get the paddle shifters and swappable 360 degree wheel finished, then I'll have something to be proud of.    I'm currently working on the paddle shifters and it's going well.  I should have something to show by tonight.

You're minimalizing, as your work is great.  Don't cut yourself short!  (Still awesome.)  I like it.

[BadMouth]

Doesn't look like much, but spent my entire day off working on this (and running around town not finding parts).

Made this little bracket out of 1/4" ABS


It drops in the 3 hole to 6 hole steering wheel adapter like so.....


The shoddy paddle shifter in the picture is made from a plastic plate.  I thought this was a good idea to make the paddles from a plastic plate to give them a little curvature.  It turned out to be too flimsy.  I will be going with aluminum paddles.
The spring is out of a happ pushbutton and has been cut down. 
There will be a button mounted in the steering wheel that will pass through the spring and out the back of the paddle.


(scrap piece of plastic used as the paddle for testing)

I spent several hours trying to get the shape of the paddles just right.
Originally, I wanted Ferrari F430 paddles, but they covered up the view of the gauges (not that they do anything).
Because the wheel is so small, everything either felt too small in my hands, blocked the gauges on the dash, or got in the way when not using them.

Here is what I ended up with:

Pretty basic, but I like it.  Not sure about putting the words at the bottom.

Now I just have to track down some 1/8" or 3/16" aluminum to make the real ones out of.
If they turn out good, I'll check into having the + and - engraved on them.
......actually, I'll just keep making them until I get a good pair 

[BadMouth]

Made a walk-through of my cab for the people over on Supermodel3.  
I don't have much in the way of editing skills, aside from pressing pause.

Here's the drinking game:  drink each time I use the word "actually"
(I'm ashamed, but I ain't redoing it)

Walk-through in it's current form:


New control panel WIP:


20 minutes of gameplay  

[Malenko]

Looks incredible bro, a real inspiration.  If you had to start all over again, which wheel would you go with? Im considering building abracing cab but im VERY unsure what wheel would work best  im the kinda guy that wants to play datona, cruis'n usa and pole position without too much hassle between games

[BadMouth]

Looks incredible bro, a real inspiration.  If you had to start all over again, which wheel would you go with? Im considering building abracing cab but im VERY unsure what wheel would work best  im the kinda guy that wants to play datona, cruis'n usa and pole position without too much hassle between games

If it's within your skill set and you want arcade ffb, I'd use an original sega model 2 ffb setup with this hack (It doesn't work with newer SEGA ffb motors):
http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=fr&tl=en&twu=1&u=http://www.gamoover.net/tuto/l2m2-interfacer-un-ffb-et-volant-sega-model-12-avec-un-pc-ou-une-playstation-23
It's a bit over my head, but I'd get it done eventually. 
I didn't even know this was possible until a few weeks ago, when driving cab enthusiasts started gathering around the new Supermodel emulator.
Retrorepair (the guy who gave me the link) has used both the servo amp and this method.
He says this method feels more true to the original arcade.  If I were starting again, I'd go this route.

If you want to keep it simple and drop a pc wheel in, I'd go for the Logitech G27 or whatever Logitech comes out with next.  Prices have dropped to just over $200 for the G27.  It has mounting points to bolt it down instead of using the clamps.  The thing with Logitech wheels (or logitech hacks) is that you get to use Logitech Profiler, which can adjust all settings on a per exe basis.  The settings change automatically whenever the exe is running.  It would suck to have to go into the control panel and windows and change the combine/separate pedals setting between running different emulators.  It also helps with the sensitivity on console emulators.

I've always wondered if the Thrustmaster RGT Clutch comes with similar software.  The wheel itself doesn't have great reviews, but it's potentiometer based, has a clutch, & has an extra analogue axis that could be used for an e-brake.  It would be a pretty good candidate for hacking if it came with something like profiler.

I should also mention that I really like the way my cab is now with the MOMO wheel. 
My primary motivation for switching to an arcade wheel (besides my compulsive need for tinkering) is that my guests treat the poor little MOMO wheel like it is a real steering wheel. 
They lift themselves in and out of the cab with it and continue trying to turn it when it's already at it's limits. 
It's loosened up a little bit, but has taken the abuse so far.

[BadMouth]

im the kinda guy that wants to play datona, cruis'n usa and pole position without too much hassle between games

Just caught that.
Pole position is not playable with any wheel that has limited rotation.
When you wreck the car, the center point is reset to whatever position the wheel is in.
Even with a 900 degree G27, it doesn't work well.

I've come up with ideas for solutions, but they all had shortcomings.
One problem is that I was insistent on having paddle shifters on the wheel.
I finally settled on swappable wheels.  

EDIT: The simplest way I have come up with to have a combo wheel is to have both a continuous rotation potentiometer and a hollow bore optical encoder on the steering shaft.  The only problem with that solution is that if you turn the wheel more than 360 degrees while in a 270 degree game, the game will see the wheel as suddenly being turned all the way in the opposite direction.  Maybe a stop can be engaged and disengaged (preferably automatically) while in those games.

I decided on swappable wheels so I could go ahead and get the 270 degree one done now and work on the 360 later.
(and sometime down the road.....a star wars style yoke ....and maybe a flight stick...or twin flight sticks for virtual on....or....    )

[BadMouth]

It's been way too long since I posted any progress on the new dash.
The main problem was that I really really liked my driving cab the way it was.
To force myself to make some progress, I decided to tear down the cab this morning.
The tv had to be removed so a space could be cut out for the ffb motor to pas through.

Even though I have other PC wheels, I won't allow myself to play any driving games until I put my cab back together.

So here it is.....


After cutting out a hole for the ffb motor to pass through, the brackets still wouldn't slide into place because the plastic dash overhangs on each side.
I guess the Virtual On brackets that I have are different than what was used on the driving cabs because the bolt holes weren't anywhere close to lining up with the dash sticking out that far.


This isn't really a huge problem, but it made a gap underneath the dash and put the top of the dash farther away from the monitor than I wanted.
So, I trimmed off the overhang so it would fit in between the sides of the cab.  This plastic can crack and chip when cutting it.  I wouldn't recommend anyone else do it, but I was determined to make progress.
AFTER:


There is still going to be a gap between the back of the dash and the monitor, but I'll make a cover.
It will actually be handy to have access to the servo amp while setting it up.


Here are the video lottery terminal (VLT) buttons that I'm using for view buttons.
The terminals have to be bent slightly to get them to fit.  (they were $60 from Happ    )
Kinda wish I'd got the medium rectangle instead of the squares.  They'd be about the same size as the original Sega buttons.

Managed to flush mount the credit button, but still have to figure out where to mount the exit button.
Then I need to get all my labels designed and send them off to Pongo for cutting.

[BadMouth]

Spent a large part of my Saturday on the wiring.  It took forever because I wanted to make sure that I could detach the view button panel if needed, and could detach the dashboard from the cab without having to fish wires through the cab.  I went through a lot of molex connectors. 


Finally picked mounting spots for the exit and radio buttons.
The white VLT buttons I had were shallow enough to fit between the plastic dash and metal bracket if the tabs were bent.
I plan to eventually get an orange oval VLT button for the radio.
(I put down a few layers of electrical tape between them and the metal bracket.)


Back in the cab:
I forgot to put bulbs back in the exit and radio buttons before installing them.
The colored buttons look awesome with colored LEDs inside.
I still need to design the inserts and have them cut out.
...and I can't find my steering wheel horn button. 


And that's where things took a turn for the worse....  :'(

First problem...ffb not working.  I had pushed against a capacitor on the MOMO board and when I bent it back, it felt loose.  I removed the MOMO board and resoldered the cap.  It still felt loose, so I thought maybe I had messed up the connection inside the cap somehow.  I had a pile of caps from a "TV repair cap kiit" that I had only used a few caps out of and was lucky enough to find the one I needed.  So I replaced the cap and reinstalled the MOMO board.
Still nothing.    A pile of tests later I discover that the MOMO board doesn't like getting it's 12v from the PC power supply for some reason.
I don't understand why.  My volt meter shows 12V either way.  The wall wart I'm using is only half an amp.  But in the end, it just works with the wall wart, but not the PC power.

Then I discover the next problem...and it is a major one.  Whenever the game does "shaking" ffb, like going accross the grass in daytona, my wheel loses it's center point and goes out of calibration!  Never had this issue during testing with the dashboard sitting on top of a desk.  Thinking that the optic encoder shaft was slipping due to the quick movements, I cranked the set screw as tight as I could get it, but it made no difference.  I'm not sure what is happening.  Guess I'll tear it back down this evening and put a flat spot on the encoder shaft for the set screw to go against.  I really don't think it's slipping though.  I think either the encoder wheel is slipping on the shaft inside the encoder, or the encoder wheel is just vibrating so hard that the sensor is mis-reading it as turning when it isn't.

I really wanted to hack a newer optical pc wheel since it hadn't been done, but so far it's cost me hundreds of dollars in trial and error and untold hours...and it's not working. 

Guess maybe I'll figure out something tonight.
Just in case, I ordered a driving force EX like everyone else has used.
I'd have to rewire my shifter and steering wheel to use it though, because of the weird way the MOMO buttons were wired.

Part of me really just wants to buy a sim chair for in front of the living room TV and be done with it.
 

[Minions]

Keep at it. One of the biggest things I learned making my cab was how to salvage things, or work around problems, and not to give up.

[TopJimmyCooks]

Take a step back or work on something else for a couple of weeks.  come back fresh, you'll lick the problem. 

[BadMouth]

quick update.....

I messed around with it this evening and figured out that it was slipping when quickly turned left.
I tried to tighten the set screw more and ended up breaking it off. 
Spent the next hour getting what was left of the set screw back out.
After that, I took apart the encoder and the wheel just fell out of it.
Looks like it was only held on by glue. 

Not 100% convinced that this was the problem because it doesn't look like the disc would have stayed in place without being glued there.
The end of the shaft has a little flange that keeps it centered, but it's only as thick as the disc and there is room on the other side for it to fall off.

Gonna ponder a better method for attaching it and research epoxies.

[ScottoKong]

Sad to hear about your problems.

I thought I blew my build up last night - adjusting wiring with it in the cab.  Managed to confuse myself and reversed the psu going to the servo, and managed to pull the wires to the servo out of the logitech board in the process without realising it at first!

Fortunately after an hour later I was back in action with my wheel pot properly wired.
Still got the shakes in Sega Rally though.  Daytona is still AWESOME!!!

Scott

[BadMouth]

Still got the shakes in Sega Rally though. 

If you are talking about the wheel shaking before you start a race.....it just does that.
It does it no matter what wheel you are using and it can't be changed.

I'm not sure if the original arcade machine did that or not.