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Control panel planning (2 u360s and buttons)
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severdhed:
i've never lubriacted my u360s and they have been working fine for a while now.  i see lizardlick sells joystick grease, i've never used it though.

http://www.lizardlick.com/Dow-Molycoat-44-Joystick-Grease-150g-Tube_p_38.html

dawolv:
Ive also thought about how I will mount my u360s, Im thinking I will top mount mine since the PCB is easily removable from the bottom whether bottom or top mounted.
Im guessing any failures would occur on the PCB (USB overvoltage etc). I dont see many problems arising from the actual metal stick?


EDIT: LOL I was just tinkering with my U360, I can get to everything from the bottom including the stick (You just have to first remove the PCB then the Magnet, then the C-Clip and be ready for that spring to bounce), so in theory top mounting would be perfectly fine since you can get to the PCB and Stick  ;D  :applaud:
kronic24601:
I personally, have customized my u360's to include an LED light, in doing this process, the included grease sorta dried out. However, there is another thread in which people are complaining about metal shavings. Which is mostly due to a shim piece if an old stick, and if newer, people need to get the new bushing from Andy to fix that. However, it's recommended you re-lube 1-2 years after purchase, depending on usage.

Really any 100% silicone grease will work, but the lizard lick stuff is what i use. It gives you SOO much, you certainly will never run out. There is no manual, do lubricate, but it's honestly very simple. The parts that rub (friction) need lubrication after awhile, or you will eat into the plastic/metal shavings, etc...

You could absolutely install it unglued, but as serverhed mentioned, you'd have to remove ALL the buttons to get to it. That would be a pain.

My biggest concern, was if in a few years Andy comes out with the next big thing, that won't fit this plastic mold. Like the Rotary u360! (doesn't really exist). But ... I may never touch it.

Just remember if you top mount you REALLY REALLY should BONDO the top smooth. In which case, you won't be taking anything off anyway. If you do not, and you apply artwork (sticky) it will stick to the uneven surface and looked jacked! Don't do it! (I wish I had some common sense when I did mine...)
ragnar:
If I don't glue, I could always layer it as follows from, the bottom up:

1) wood
2) wax paper
3) graphic
4) plexiglass or equivilent

That should precent any "dents" from forming.

I do want to make the joysticks removable without destroying the artwork.  I have thought about using drywall mud or wood putty.  Wood putty is probably less prone to crackign which is hte real issue I would think.  What is needed is a filler that can be removed.  Painters epoxy?
mgb:
If it were me, I think I would either mount the sticks from the bottom (with longer shafts) or use metal plates so it is effectively like mounting to a metal control panel.
With a plate, you cut out a square section of the wood, route out so the plate sits flush. Then your stick is mounted from underneith so that you can pull it out if needed.
You can check 'em out here http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=443
These also have a slight flange to them so there is room to put the dust washer where its supposed to be, under the artwork.

On a side note, I mounted a Sanwa JLW under a piece of 3/4" for a mockup (with no routing) and the shafts were long enough that they played fine, (a little low for my taste, but they would work.
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