Arcade Collecting > Pinball
New pinball restoration - 1969 Gottlieb Road Race EM
Santoro:
Wow!
(Mean Green added to my shopping list.)
Rick:
Today marks the 1 year anniversary of the day my Dad passed away from Lung Cancer, and your story really hit home with me. I was given most of the tools my Dad had used over the years, and when I got them home and started going through them, I found a pair of safety glasses, old and yellowed, that I remember using when I worked in his workshop when I was in my early teens. It nearly doubled me over when I picked them up and handled them for the first time in years, so I know how much this restoration must mean to you. Keep that pinball game in your family for as long as you possibly can, and if your Son can help out in any way, I'm sure he'd love to be involved in the process. If he's not excited now, I'm sure down the line, it will be a very fond memory for him to keep close.
I will be watching this thread intently. Thank you for your story.
bleargh:
Isn't often that I read threads here that make me well up with emotion, but this one definitely hit a spot (someone, hand me a kleenex).
And, seeing the smile on your sons face in that picture above, I get the sense that through this machine he's going to have a connection to his great-grandfather. That on its own makes it worth restoring the machine.
Good on ya. :applaud:
studmuff:
Hey Dazz, Looking great. Novus 2 will do wonders for the playfield. It also work good on dirty plastics. I'll usually use Novus 2 then Novus 1 to clean dirty plastics (just don't use Novus 1 on playfield). I have never used Mill Wax (saw in your pics) but understand it works good. Have fun and take your time. :)
Xiaou2:
Magic Eraser works really well actually.
But not with water.
Use rubbing alcohol instead. The thing sops up grime and dirt that is deeply ground into
cracks with ease. (stuff that even harsh cleaning & buffing wasnt getting up)
However, its a little dangerous, cause it can remove the paint as well.
Finally, note that the field will quickly go back to the dirty state, because the micro-pits,
scrapes, etc.. are still there for dirt to seep back into. To avoid this, you will have to
seal the field with something after you clean it. (Wax wont be good enough to stop this)
As for the plastics, you may be able to sand the top surface layer, and then buff it back
shinny. However, it might not be enough. Older plastics had a chemical composition
that yellowed over time when hit by ultraviolet light. Also, the paint may have faded from
UV as well.
I read somewhere that someone was using shrinky-dinks to make their own plastics.
They make computer printable versions. Said had to be made something like +1.5 times
as large, so when baked, would shrink to correct size with proper thickness.
The artwork on the field is pretty simplistic, so if you had the steady hand, you could
use frisket to mask off parts, and airbrush large areas in... then hand paint the small
details in.
There are ppl who repaint professionally, but you would have to remove all the stuff
top & bottom, send it out, and wait for months... as these guys have long waiting lines.
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