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Operation Wolf to multiplayer MAME: UPDATE!! side art!!
Marsupial:
I did cut the side pannels. I have about 3 foot long to do and didn't find a slot cutter; I tried with a dremel and its doable but long.
In the meanwhile, I stuck the front pannel to the cab, gives better rigidity and looks better. We see the end result coming to life.
did myself a template to follow.
however, I realized that when they assembled that cab, the 2 side panels are not identical. One side has the curve about 1/4 higher then the other. Not very visible like that, but when you base yourself on that and end up with something that's supposed to be equal and levelled, you have a bad surprise.
This said, I corrected it (the bottom part) and the CP will look nice.
the CP board isn't in place yet, I'll prepare it and pierce it before affixing it. But I also want to do a glass test before putting anything, just want to make sure I will still be able to remove it if required once the CP is in place. I don't plan on putting the CP on hinges, is it really useful?
Turnarcades:
A hinged control panel is definitely recommended, particularly on cab conversions where interior access is limited. Simply hinge the front edge and use roller catches on the underside; this will provide plenty of hold during gameplay and means you can just adjust the way the panel sits if your glass fitting is off or you want to conceal the mounting for the glass just under the rear of the control panel.
Oh, and a quick search for Canada turned up this:
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView?D=971055&Ntt=971055&catalogId=10051&langId=-15&storeId=10051&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntx=mode+matchall&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber
They also do the shank for the slot cutting disc on there. You may do better from US suppliers.
Marsupial:
none of my local hardware stores have slot cutters, I would need to do special order - more delays then the 3 foot long slot I need to cut. lol.
There's a bigger hardware store on the way back from work that I will try this week.
If I go the hinged CP way, I have CP clips that I bought used. now that I have the front under construction, I see how I'll be doing it. I was affraid the front-positionned hinge would look weird, but I guess its no issue.
At this point my main concern is about the glass (and screen) - right now its perpendicular to the ground, but I feel it might be a bit too close to the players if I leave it as-is.
I could reput the mirror and place the screen going upward; maybe it would be interesting, but I feel the best course of action is to slant the monitor and position the glass accordingly. I guess I need to measure the monitor outter size and look at the possibilities.
Marsupial:
good news is - that bigger hardware store do have slot cutters.
Bad news is - they have 1/8, 1/16, 5/32 but not 5/64.
I gave a try with the 1/8 and it is definately too big. I guess I'll fill the slot with hot glue when putting the t-molding in place. (hot glue because it is generally not permanent)
I have the support for the pannel installed and only need to prepare the CP and hinges, I have started to cut the button holes on the CP. I don't want to bother the neighbours too late, so I'll continue tomorrow.
What size do we generally use for the joystick holes? I am using MDF 3/4".
smalltownguy:
--- Quote from: Marsupial on July 26, 2010, 11:15:14 pm ---What size do we generally use for the joystick holes? I am using MDF 3/4".
--- End quote ---
29mm, or you can usually get away with an 1 1/8" bit.