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Replacing a spigot (outdoor faucet)
northerngames:
goofy setup for sure.
me I would cut the pvc right at the adapter where the yellow glue is showing the spot in your pic on the right closest to the copper pipe.
then add a coupler then go from there or you could add a new converter at that spot and convert it back to copper or stainless.
on mine the stainless pipe screws right into a threaded adapter made of pvc that is connected to the pvc piping.
so on mine the spicket threads onto the stainless pipe both side's of the stainless pipe are male threaded and on the other end of that pipe is the other male threaded part it then goes into the female threaded pvc pipe adapter/converter wich glues right onto the exsisting pvc piping to make a female threaded hole for the stainless pipe to screw into.
if you have trouble finding the right lengh steel pipe add a coupller in that spot and extend another pvc pipe to match your lengh needed and then add the converter to thread the metal pipe in order to get the lengh your after.
your pic looks like a rig job becuase of the little nut next to the big one to me but no pun intended.
actually in oyur pic if you can get the big nut to unthread off the white pvc adapter then all you would need it the double threade pipe to the right lengh but you may twist the pcv and get a leek down the pipe somewhere this would be faster but there's the risk or just cut it off like explained and just rebuild it to a normal standard.
me I would cut it as its not really hard to cut glue or thread really but hopefully that may help ya :cheers:
LLUncoolJ:
The copper is all part of the spigot. the actual valve is near the threaded part. This is so that the water shuts off behind the wall/insulation so it won't freeze. Also, if you cut the PVC and plan to glue another female adapter on, they recommend PVC glue be given 24 hours to dry and set up before turning the water on. This is overkill of course, but I'd give it at least 12 hours...that's 12 hours with no water in the house, or at least that part of the house.
The least messy way is if you can get a rebuild kit like previously stated. The cleanest way to replace the whole valve is to unthread at the teflon taped joint.
northerngames:
Wow I never heard of that before unless that was some terribly cheap pipe glue all the years in construction & road excavating and doing pipe work I have never ever seen nor heard of a guy saying O yeah I have to come back tomorow before I can continue becuase the glue needs to set.
if your plumber actually told you that he was either going to dick around the rest of that day or just after the/your money and making an excuse to come back the next day..
get the purple OATEY construction grade primer that most construction and plumbers use and the same type glue and your good to go in about 5 minutes but I never heard of anything pipe glue wise taking that long and I know no plumber has that amount of time to wait on glue to dry either hehe.
the actuall glue is like and smells like model glue and it dries the same within a matter of minutes not hour's or days.
there should be a shut off valve on the pvc behind the wall so you can shut the water off from inside and drain the pipe for winter once the valve is closed on the inside you open the outerside spicket to drain the remaining water out of the pipe to correctly winterize it.
also once its closed you could glue it all you wanted and even it for some unheard of reason you needed to let is sit for a whole day the only thing that is off and not getting water is the spicket your working on itself and only..
the spicket should thread onto the copper pipe but I never seen one where the pipe and spicket are welded together all as one piece either.
I have a main shut off for eveything and also a shut off valve on each sink, clothes washer, dish washer, garden hose, toilet, fridge ice maker etc.
if you cannot shut each thing off seperatly then you had a goofy plumber come through for sure.
eds1275:
Up in canada here and probably other places, you get the faucet and pipe as one unit; it's double insulated inside to protect from freezing and expansion.
northerngames:
hmm mine are double male threaded stainless and then the spicket just threads onto the pipe and the other end threads into a female pvc coupler.
are yours the thin copper instead and if so that may be the difference is the stainless is way thicker and therefor nothing insulated is needed?
on my setup you just shut it off in the house and open the outside spicket and then there is nothing in there to freeze or expand as it is left as an empty pipe.
I also don't have any copper pipe running to anything anywhere.
oop I take that back I have copper lines for the propane but we dont use them anymore becuase we went to a wood burner and electric water heater with an energy saver box attached to it becuase the propane furnace & propane waterheater are not friendly on the wallet these days and them type furnace's are power/energy hungry anymore and do a little kung-fu on the electric bill.
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