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2-player XBOX 360 Fight stick (PCB question)
mwong168:
For $5 I assume you are talking about these Madcatz arcade sticks
Honestly the Paewang Revolution PCB is even easier to solder then the one shown above. See the image below for a pad hack of the Madcatz arcade stick.
You are spending this much money so far so why not do it right from the start and just bite the bullet as opposed to re-doing it later to better suit your needs? The Paewang gives you the flexibility of all consoles so when you do build your cab you can throw a Ps3 or 360 in there and not have to bother with switches or other boards to toggle between the two. Also good for PC which is what you will want to put in an upright arcade cab to run MAME. I am also no affiliated with etokki so this is not why I am pushing so hard for it but I say if you are going to do it, do it right. But again if all you will be using it for is 360 then continue down this route. Personally my friends and I love the freedom of playing with my wireless HAPP sticks in my living room. Also helps cause my 15 month old daughter runs around all over the place and the last thing I need is an excuse such as the cable getting in the way or pulled out after I beat them down.
ChurchOfSolipsism:
--- Quote from: jmike on June 14, 2010, 09:00:06 pm ---As you can see by pic 4 never drill straight through without cutting from the other side as well.
--- End quote ---
Didn't read the whole thread, so sorry if some else has already commented on this - this happens if you don't put another sheet of (scrap)wood under the board you're drilling. The other board keeps the wood from splintering.
jmike:
mwong168 you sure make a heck of an argument over the mayflash PCB, (you know Father's Day is coming so maybe I'll order two) ;D
Here are some more pics. As I said before I'm almost finished I'm just trying to find the time to upload some of these pics. Check the t-molding fit with a scrap piece of wood in pic 11 and used pocket holes with my Kreg jig. pic 19 and 20. I ran out of ply so I used a piece of melamine for the bottom. Snug fit but I'm happy with it. I decided to put it in between the frame instead of under it.
jmike:
pic 21 shows the peel and stick vinyl I got from ebay. I hate painting so this was a good alternative for me. ::)
Like I said before I wanted to hide most of the wood so I'm going to use this vinyl on the outside and inside of the frame. Pic 22 shows the measured and cut pieces for the sides. THis stuff is really easy to work with. the last pic shows the hole where the wires will come out from. Any questions please feel free to ask.
:cheers:
jmike:
Now the control panel. Since I didn't drill the holes properly on the 2-player :angry: I had to fill in the chip out. (see pic 27). After I sanded it down I covered the CP (this is the bottom of the CP) I have artwork for the top. Also added the t-molding. I had a little problem with the corners since the screw prevented the t-molding from going all the way in, I simply cut a piece off of the t-molding. Problem solved. ;D
:cheers: