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Neo-Geo MVS to Xbox cab project
XYXZYZ:
Oh yeah, the buttons holes are standard arcade button size, 1.125".
This is a rather strange adapter; first of all there's no key slot so you'll either have to use a Dremel tool and cut it yourself or remove the key from the MVS harness which will allow you to connect the adapter backwards, and if you have the MVS power supply hooked up that will send +12V into the "B" button line of the adapter, which I imagine will kill it. So just make sure you're not putting it in backwards.
There is no key mapped to the coin switch, this thing uses it's own circuitry to display "insert coin" on your Xbox screen, presumably making the system unplayable until you do, but there is a free play option. You still won't be able to insert a coin to start your MAME games (that's part of the authenticity!) unless you do a little hacking. Come to think of it, you may not need to do a pad hack; this adapter gives you eight buttons per player and you can just solder your kick harness onto the corresponding pins on the adapter that the MVS harness doesn't use. And maybe jump the back button over the the coin switch.
The documentation they provided doesn't tell you much, with all the parts on that board I assume it has the video and audio amplifiers you'll need.
Malenko:
--- Quote from: XYXZYZ on April 27, 2010, 10:51:11 am ---Say, do those middle panels come off easily? There aren't any screws or anything on my cabinet.
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yeah, tapped them from the inside with a hammer and luckily all the staples stayed pretty straight. They aren't meant to come off (especially repeatedly).
satoshi_matrix:
Thanks for your help. So the buttons are 1.125" which my math says is 28mm. Sanwa buttons are 30 mm across so I suppose I'll have to do a bit of filing in order to get it to fit. Can anyone recommend the best tool? If I add more buttons onto the existing metal panel as it seems I cannot replace it, does anyone here know where I could get a custom overlay? I'm thinking something like a Lamilabel as it's something I'll need to design myself.
XYXZYZ I once again thank you for your help, but I am an absolute beginner at understanding arcade parts. Could you please explain what a"key slot" is and what it does? If its an existing part on the MVS, why would I need to insert it backwards? Is there a way of telling which side is "correct" on both the slot and the board itself?
I'm not particularly interested in anything to do with the coin slot as this cabinet will be in my home for only me and my friends to play. I don't intend to ever have it needing real money to play. I'm still going to have to do padhacks as I plan on each player having all 10 buttons on the Xbox pad available, and possibly 12 if L3 and R3 are possible to padhack. xmod mentioned it. Is it possible to padhack those inputs to a push button? In CoinOps (Xbox Mame emu) these are used to toggle auto fire on and off.
However, all this might be an idea to shift over to a future cabinet. In my searching for MVS info I've come across the prospect of chinese MVS multicarts that have like 100 games in 1. Anyone know much about these? If they're really that good I might end up leaving the MVS intact.
I also have the option to buy Rolling Thunder 1 for $100. It's got a 19" monitor and a 25" horizontal plane. I know I'm off topic, but as far as arcade monitors go, how big is the maximum size I can retrofit a newer monitor in there?
Sorry I've shifted around so much. lol hopefully this all makes sense in hindsight.
xmod:
--- Quote from: satoshi_matrix on April 27, 2010, 02:52:03 am ---xmod: Because I don't yet understand anything about Jamma kick harnesses and the like, both player 1 and 2 panels will be padhacked Xbox controllers. I've done this kind of thing before and I've modified stock console arcade sticks with sanwa parts. I know my way around a soldering iron. I guess I wasn't clear on what I intend to with the control panel. Indeed, I plan on creating a 10 button setup for each player (A B X Y White Black L R Start Back). You mentioned L3 and R3, as in the click of the two thumb sticks. I didn't know that was possible to padhack into a push button! If at all possible, can you please post info and a photo of where to solder to?
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No prob.
Where you see the analog on one side, you should see the button it clicks on when analog is pushed down.
Flip it around, and you will see the 4 pins from that button, solder to the one that has a trace going somewhere (circled), the other 3 will be grounded (arrow).
the triggers are the tricky part as they technically cannot be done! upon removing the triggers in order to reach the solder points, you will be removing a resistor due to pressure sensitive switches. In order for me to get this working, I had to solder the 2 points together, otherwise it will act like the triggers are consistently pressed.
--- Quote ---Currently I do not know of a way to wire up L and R buttons. You Can solder to the blob that you just made but I noticed that A, B and possibly other buttons are activated when this is done. I know this sucks, and I'm looking into it. If anyone finds a way before I do please let me know and I'll update the site
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Check this site out for further info, it helped me alot to get this going.
http://www.nuclearplayground.com/joysticks/
hope this helps buddy.
;)
edit:
PS: MAME and XMugen runs like a charm. I have tested over 80 arcade classics with it and no issues or lag.
Obviously, you wont run recent stuff, but anything under 2001 runs 100%.
Mugen has 5 character sets and it just a cool addition to a cab. I can also run Daphne with all these great laser disk arcade giants like Dragon's Lair.
I know the ultimate solution is a PC to be able to run even more stuff like dreamcast, Sega's M2 and that Virtual pinball stuff, but xbox is a quick and non expensive solution.
ALSO, for the coin door: most arcade emus like FBA and MAME uses the Back button to add coins, just wire your Back button to the switch of the coin slot. that was very easy and rewarding.
satoshi_matrix:
Hey thanks! That looks like its for a Duke Controller F. Do you have pics of the controller s? Are the soldering points any different?