Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Robotron Cabaret
jasonbar:
Congrats--enjoy. Hope the Wico parts I sent you come in handy. If you need more grommets, here's where I got a pair for $16. Seems like a good deal--seller took almost a week to ship out, but I was in no rush, so no biggie.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-WICO-Joystick-CENTER-GROMMET-SET-OF-2_W0QQitemZ170447349603QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item27af742763
My cocktail Defender used to have flaky resets--it turned out to be the power supply--pushing on the power supply PCB could force a reset. Cracked solder joints. Try it out. If you can make it reset, reflow the solder on all the joints. Might work... :dunno
-Jason
TheShanMan:
Yeah, reflow the solder joints and could even be the connector itself. Also, check the voltage at one of the chips, because there will be voltage drop between the PS and what the chips themselves get. Might just need to crank up the +5v a bit (like to 5.1 for instance).
You might even want to talk to Dokert on the klov forums - he's reproduced Williams wiring harnesses and power harnesses, and I think that included a cabaret cabinet. They're pretty reasonable price-wise. My defender is much more dependable now - money WELL spent. Dokert is also a wiz at Williams power supplies (far better to go with a linear than use a switcher).
SirPeale:
Reflowing on these is a band-aid. The pins get corroded and the solder doesn't stick to them well. They should probably be replaced. Connectors too. Don't use IDC ones.
opt2not:
--- Quote from: jasonbar on April 09, 2010, 06:37:37 pm ---Congrats--enjoy. Hope the Wico parts I sent you come in handy. If you need more grommets, here's where I got a pair for $16. Seems like a good deal--seller took almost a week to ship out, but I was in no rush, so no biggie.
http://cgi.ebay.com/NOS-WICO-Joystick-CENTER-GROMMET-SET-OF-2_W0QQitemZ170447349603QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item27af742763
--- End quote ---
Thanks for the Link Jason! I'll probably get a few of these later on.
--- Quote from: TheShanMan on April 09, 2010, 09:45:46 pm ---Yeah, reflow the solder joints and could even be the connector itself. Also, check the voltage at one of the chips, because there will be voltage drop between the PS and what the chips themselves get. Might just need to crank up the +5v a bit (like to 5.1 for instance).
You might even want to talk to Dokert on the klov forums - he's reproduced Williams wiring harnesses and power harnesses, and I think that included a cabaret cabinet. They're pretty reasonable price-wise. My defender is much more dependable now - money WELL spent. Dokert is also a wiz at Williams power supplies (far better to go with a linear than use a switcher).
--- End quote ---
Yeah, I've been using the search there a lot, he seems to have a lot of knowledge of these PS's, so I'll just siphon off any info that's already posted there. I will be keeping the original Linear PS, with probably a rebuild. I've read that a rebuilt linear would most likely out-last a switcher...and functioning longevity is my goal here.
--- Quote from: SirPeale on April 10, 2010, 01:13:57 pm ---Reflowing on these is a band-aid. The pins get corroded and the solder doesn't stick to them well. They should probably be replaced. Connectors too. Don't use IDC ones.
--- End quote ---
Yeah, from an eye-ball check, I found this off the Power Supply Assembly :(:
Looks like we got some burn-out action happening. Going to need to be replaced!
SirPeale:
Those are the IDC kind I mentioned above. Replace the connectors, pins and housing and you'll be good to go for another 30,000 miles.
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