Author Topic: R-TYPE Themed Bartop - "R-CADE" DONE (for the most part) (Read 50149 times)

kyoke · « **Reply #80 on:** June 01, 2010, 08:14:36 pm »

@Bender: I guess I'm confused... I read on Maximus Arcade's forum that the u360 needs to be mapped via .ugc files upon game launch (http://bit.ly/dkmcgl), and if MAME maps them automatically why use LEDBlinky...?

Bender · « **Reply #81 on:** June 02, 2010, 08:53:28 pm »

That was from a long time ago, newer versions of Mame now have a mapping function. I use LEDBlinky because I find fine tuning the maps easier with the U360 software than Mame's, and I can load those with LEDBLinky, plus I can use it to map the other emu's

so I think If I was just using Mame I wouldn't bother with LEDBlinky or the command line I'd just let Mame handle it

kyoke · « **Reply #82 on:** June 02, 2010, 11:25:53 pm »

@Bender: Thanks for all the help. I noticed on this post: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=98058.0 that you mentioned after mapping with the 7778...4445 in mame.ini this worked the best with Q-Bert. Were you also using the u360 firmware mappings change at the same time or did you have the u360 firmware mapping set to analog?

Bender · « **Reply #83 on:** June 03, 2010, 03:37:06 pm »

I do have the mame.ini set to 7778...4445, that prevents interference from mame AND I'm using the U360 maps
Here is an explination

kyoke · « **Reply #84 on:** June 05, 2010, 07:33:55 pm »

I think I've hit a brick wall.

Can an ATX power supply be used to provide power for everything in the cabinet? I've been scouring the forums but I have very basic knowledge of electricity and voltage and don't know where to begin.

I'm looking to power the monitor, marquee lighting, and tiny amp kit and of course magically have everything turn on with one switch. Is this possible off of just the ATX power supply? I know pretty much everyone that puts together a MAME cab sets one switch to power everything on, but I don't know where to look to get the 411 on this one. Thanks all!

Ond · « **Reply #85 on:** June 05, 2010, 08:19:16 pm »

I'll give you a little bit of advice, I'm sure others will chime in. Firstly it depends on the power consumption of the components versus the rated power output of the supply. If you are only trying to run a moderate graphics card, a small amp and some lights and your PS is rated above say 300 Watts (most are these days) you should be fine. Running a monitor? you can trigger a relay on start up that will switch on your monitor and marquee lights, or like some guy's I've seen use of a 'smart' power board that fires everything up at the same time. I prefer the relay approach. Here's a few things to look out for when powering off one supply. You are bit tight on space that's a challenge, hopefully you should still be able to fit a smart board in.

Hum in your speakers because the system isn't grounded properly.
Digital noise in your speakers from Hard disk activity again usually a grounding issue.
Lights pulsing with music usually only a problem if your amp draws a fair bit of power

My advice is if you're not real savvy with electrics use the smart board approach I mentioned.

I think Epyx may have used this method. If you find you're too tight on space for a smart power board, PM me with more details on the components you want to power, I'll show you how to make it all work.

opt2not · « **Reply #86 on:** June 05, 2010, 09:02:19 pm »

Ha ha, you're lucky kyoke! You've got all the BYOAC big-boys interested in your bartop build... no pressure!

kyoke · « **Reply #87 on:** June 06, 2010, 07:04:07 pm »

Quote from: Ond on June 05, 2010, 08:19:16 pm

...My advice is if you're not real savvy with electrics use the smart board approach I mentioned...

Thanks Ond for all the advice. I take it that you mean a Smart Power Strip? That's probably going to be ideal for simplicity, but if the relay method is cleaner, then I would love to figure that out. I'll PM you in a bit.

For everyone else that might be interested, here's the hardware I am or will be running

500W ATX power supply
Intel Mini-ITX motherboard
Viewsonic 17" LCD monitor
LED strip light for marquee
8W +8W amp from qkits.com

2x U360 joysticks with long shafts, circular restrictors, and hard springs
Happ competition pushbuttons (I love convex buttons)
Ultimarc Mini-PAC

Quote from: opt2not on June 05, 2010, 09:02:19 pm

Ha ha, you're lucky kyoke! You've got all the BYOAC big-boys interested in your bartop build... no pressure!

opt2not: It's because everyone's an R-TYPE fan

kyoke · « **Reply #88 on:** June 28, 2010, 11:16:26 am »

Hey folks! I've been busy at work lately and as such haven't posted many updates. Just a small one: I got my CPO artwork from gameongrafix.com (awesome!) and here's what it's looking like on the CP!

Getting closer!

emphatic · « **Reply #89 on:** June 28, 2010, 12:45:00 pm »

Wow! That looks ace!

Bender · « **Reply #90 on:** June 28, 2010, 05:06:41 pm »

Man, that CP looks GRRRRRRRRRRRRATE!!!!!!!!!!!

kyoke · « **Reply #91 on:** June 29, 2010, 12:49:36 pm »

Thanks @emphatic and @Bender!

Here's another one with the u360s in and the CPO completely glued. I made the mistake of buying the non-sticky-back CPO from gameongrafix.com, but it ended up in my favor because it was significantly easier to put the CPO on using spray-on tack glue from 3M.

opt2not · « **Reply #92 on:** June 29, 2010, 01:59:53 pm »

Lookin' sweet.

You should get smaller dust covers, so you're not completely covering the joystick cross.

HaRuMaN · « **Reply #93 on:** June 29, 2010, 02:00:47 pm »

Or translucent dust covers...

emphatic · « **Reply #94 on:** June 29, 2010, 02:24:35 pm »

+1 on the dust covers. Perhaps mounting the sticks slightly lower if possible, or do you like having such tall shafts?

Ond · « **Reply #95 on:** June 29, 2010, 07:43:18 pm »

I'd make custom matching red dustwashers which show as much of the artwork as possible. Get the whole red theme unified. I like red shiny buttons and controls

kyoke · « **Reply #96 on:** June 30, 2010, 01:26:53 am »

opt2not: Thanks! My thoughts exactly on the large dustwashers. You can't see the cross!

HarumaN: Only problem I can think of with translucent dustwashers is that you will see the "guts" of the joystick, that aren't too pretty.

emphatic: Regarding the long shafts - based on the significantly large amount of recommendations I've been reading on these here forums I decided to go with the longer shafts... Is it possible that they are too long for the metal CP? I haven't had the opportunity to play anything yet so I don't know if they are going to be too long.

Ond: I found a guy that does custom colored dustwashers (http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies) - If I was innovative like you

I'd probably figure out a way to make one myself.

*Conclusion* - I think I smaller, red dustwasher is what will fit the bill.

emphatic · « **Reply #97 on:** June 30, 2010, 02:37:23 am »

Sticks' shaft length depends on what type of games you'll be playing though. As the cabinet is R-Type themed, you'll want an as short throw as possible for all that precision movement.. But if it's for playing classics, perhaps a longer throw would be needed. I'm a short throw, fast engage guy myself, so I generally prefer Seimitsu LS-32 or SUZO 500, but you can't play Ninja Kid II with them as it's too easy to hit diagonals by mistake.

rchadd · « **Reply #98 on:** June 30, 2010, 06:12:53 am »

Quote from: kyoke on June 30, 2010, 01:26:53 am

Ond: I found a guy that does custom colored dustwashers (http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies) - If I was innovative like you I'd probably figure out a way to make one myself.

wow they look good

http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/?loc=products&cat=7

kyoke · « **Reply #99 on:** July 02, 2010, 10:27:03 pm »

emphatic: Going to give the short shaft and the long shaft a try to see which one I like better. I'm also using the circular restrictors so the throw is much shorter than the stock u360.

rchadd: Thanks! It's been a rough ride so far.

I'm having a dilemma now... The buttons mounted on the front of the CP for Player 1 and Player 2, mounted perpendicularly to the buttons on the top of the CP are too long and hit the bottom-most button in the 6-button layout. I checked Lizard Lick where I bought the black Player buttons and they have a shorter/shallower black Player button, but they told me they're out of stock for the P1 button, due to the manufacturer discontinuing them.

I need some Ond/opt2not/Bender/HarumaN ingenuity here... brain transplant? Anyone know of a "shallower" black Player button?

emphatic · « **Reply #100 on:** July 03, 2010, 03:32:51 am »

Try some "regular" buttons that are shorter for size first and buy the black ones when they are available again or just get those small player start vinyl stickers that someone on these forums sell. I'm not sure who he/she/they are, but I'm sure you'll see a link in this thread soon enough.

shateredsoul · « **Reply #101 on:** July 03, 2010, 04:44:35 am »

Quote from: kyoke on July 02, 2010, 10:27:03 pm

emphatic: Going to give the short shaft and the long shaft a try to see which one I like better. I'm also using the circular restrictors so the throw is much shorter than the stock u360.

rchadd: Thanks! It's been a rough ride so far.

I'm having a dilemma now... The buttons mounted on the front of the CP for Player 1 and Player 2, mounted perpendicularly to the buttons on the top of the CP are too long and hit the bottom-most button in the 6-button layout. I checked Lizard Lick where I bought the black Player buttons and they have a shorter/shallower black Player button, but they told me they're out of stock for the P1 button, due to the manufacturer discontinuing them.

I need some Ond/opt2not/Bender/HarumaN ingenuity here... brain transplant? Anyone know of a "shallower" black Player button?

the vinyl stickers aren't bad, they look really nice and professional. I bought mine from pongo .. check it out

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=64645.0

Bender · « **Reply #102 on:** July 03, 2010, 09:38:29 am »

you looking for a yenox black player one button?

I think I might have one
PM me

Yvan256 · « **Reply #103 on:** July 03, 2010, 12:47:50 pm »

Quote from: Bender on July 03, 2010, 09:38:29 am

you looking for a yenox black player one button?

I think I might have one
PM me

I think I have one too (and a "player two" button too).

kyoke · « **Reply #104 on:** July 06, 2010, 01:57:24 pm »

Just finished up wiring my CP (it works!)

I think the nature of the MiniPAC harness makes it challenging to really neaten the wires. There's probably more I can do but I'll leave it at this.

What you're seeing:

* Custom stainless steel control panel
* Happ Competition Pushbuttons with E Switches
* Happ Concave P1 and P2 Pushbuttons (to be replaced, they are too deep)
* Ultimarc U360 joysticks
* Happ Illuminated buttons (blue and red) for Pause and Exit
* MiniPAC interface board

Bender · « **Reply #105 on:** July 08, 2010, 10:00:46 am »

Quote from: kyoke on July 02, 2010, 10:27:03 pm

emphatic: Going to give the short shaft and the long shaft a try to see which one I like better. I'm also using the circular restrictors so the throw is much shorter than the stock u360.

rchadd: Thanks! It's been a rough ride so far.

I'm having a dilemma now... The buttons mounted on the front of the CP for Player 1 and Player 2, mounted perpendicularly to the buttons on the top of the CP are too long and hit the bottom-most button in the 6-button layout. I checked Lizard Lick where I bought the black Player buttons and they have a shorter/shallower black Player button, but they told me they're out of stock for the P1 button, due to the manufacturer discontinuing them.

I need some Ond/opt2not/Bender/HarumaN ingenuity here... brain transplant? Anyone know of a "shallower" black Player button?

Quote from: Bender on July 03, 2010, 09:38:29 am

you looking for a yenox black player one button?

I think I might have one
PM me

dosent seem that the yenox buttons are much shoter

(I measured less than a 1/16")

Bender · « **Reply #106 on:** July 09, 2010, 12:52:37 pm »

You could go with a couple of sanwa buttons (they'd easily fit) and get some vinyl stickers or, and this is what I would do, get the sanwas that you can put inserts in then you can make your own graphics for Player 1 and 2, maybe little R-Type ship/s

EDIT: oh yeah you would have to widen the holes from 1 1/8"(28.575mm) to 30mm which shouldn't be that big a deal

Yvan256 · « **Reply #107 on:** July 09, 2010, 01:57:44 pm »

Quote from: Bender on July 09, 2010, 12:52:37 pm

You could go with a couple of sanwa buttons (they'd easily fit) and get some vinyl stickers or, and this is what I would do, get the sanwas that you can put inserts in then you can make your own graphics for Player 1 and 2, maybe little R-Type ship/s

Indeed that would add to the theme instead of being a problem. Lizardlick lists both the Seimitsu PS-14-GN (30mm) and PS-14-DN (24mm) black body with clear plunger. The nice thing is that artwork is protected by the clear dome and you can go crazy with the graphics (such as using photo paper for extremely sharp and colorful graphics). That's what I would do if I went with little R-Type ship(s) for the player buttons.

Another idea would be to see if short leafswitch pushbuttons are short enough, but then you're back to the problem of sourcing black player1 and black player2 buttons unless you go with vinyl stickers.

kyoke · « **Reply #108 on:** July 12, 2010, 11:48:18 pm »

Bender and Yvan: this looks like it's the best way to go.

New dilemma (I seem to run into a lot of these due to being such a noob at this)...

My side panels have one button each for coins. I drilled holes where the buttons will fit best with the side panel artwork and stupidly didn't think that the buttons would impede sliding the control panel in and out (it makes it impossible, actually). I was thinking that I could also go for the Sanwas or Seimitsus as well, except for the fact that they are designed for metal control panels that are no thicker than 8mm, which will not work with 25mm MDF. So now I am stuck looking for a solution to this one.

Ultimate Lesson I Will Take Away From This Cabinet: Next cab I build will have a hell of a lot more planning.

Bender · « **Reply #109 on:** July 13, 2010, 12:14:48 am »

that's an easy one just drill out a wider hole than the button so essentially your making the MDF 8mm around the button

just like franco did here with a pattern and a router

Yvan256 · « **Reply #110 on:** July 13, 2010, 12:41:46 am »

Your best friend is Google Sketchup.

kyoke · « **Reply #111 on:** July 13, 2010, 01:06:34 pm »

Another dilemma: The button in question is smack dab in the middle of three 1"x1" moldings and prohibits a router entry, therefore I'm unable to cut out a recess for the buttons unless I dremel the hell out of it. Not to mention wouldn't the MDF become weaker in spots if it is only 8mm thick? The MDF is only 25mm (1/2 inch) thick now. Here's a pic of the hole and it's relation to the Control Panel.

I am considering purchasing the Sanwa "snap-in" buttons and cutting little notches around the edge of the hole that they grab on to. Thoughts? Thanks all!

severdhed · « **Reply #112 on:** July 13, 2010, 04:56:57 pm »

the sanwa snap in buttons should work fine...as long as the hole is tight enough..worst case you put a little hot glue on them before inserting them into the holes, they shouldnt fall out.

Bender · « **Reply #113 on:** July 13, 2010, 11:00:55 pm »

Quote from: severdhed on July 13, 2010, 04:56:57 pm

the sanwa snap in buttons should work fine...as long as the hole is tight enough..worst case you put a little hot glue on them before inserting them into the holes, they shouldnt fall out.

great idea! a little hot glue and I think you'd be all set

and what about a 1 1/2" fostner drill bit 8mm is plenty of strength around the button
BTW 25mm is almost a full 1" not 1/2" sure it's not 19mm (3/4")

kyoke · « **Reply #114 on:** October 24, 2010, 07:13:54 pm »

It's been a while since my last update -- since then I have been working mainly on wiring the cabinet for lit up buttons, relay for monitor power on, installed 15W+15W amp from QKits, and installed the speakers.

No side art printed yet, but here's a pic of my progress so far:

Here's my punch list to finish:

Hardware/cabinet-related:
- Purchase and install lighting (suggestions? I was thinking of using an LED rope light)
- Install additional relay for lighting
- Install power button and power button panel
- Install 15W+15W amp - it works, but I get a buzz using a separate 12V power adapter or via computer power supply (suggestions to get rid of buzz?)
- Purchase and install marquee and side art
- Clean up wiring, it's an effing mess right now

Software-related:
- Put finishing touches on marquee and sideart in Photoshop/Illustrator
- Shell Windows 7 installation for direct boot to Maximus Arcade frontend
- Some small Maximus Arcade tweaks, nothing major

Wadeduck · « **Reply #115 on:** October 25, 2010, 12:37:53 pm »

Just came back after a short (OK long) break. I looked at your Bartop and WOW. You are doing a great job. I just hope I get the chance to build something this nice. Keep up the great updates.

kyoke · « **Reply #116 on:** October 26, 2010, 02:07:34 am »

Thanks @Wadeduck. It has been a long and more arduous journey than I originally anticipated, but it will be all worth it once I can play R-Type, Metal Slug 3, and Q*Bert (everyday).

Quote from: Wadeduck on October 25, 2010, 12:37:53 pm

Just came back after a short (OK long) break. I looked at your Bartop and WOW. You are doing a great job. I just hope I get the chance to build something this nice. Keep up the great updates.

LeedsFan · « **Reply #117 on:** October 31, 2010, 02:28:08 pm »

Looking good!!! Have you done anything about the buttons yet? How big are your holes? Exactly? You need 30mm to fit Sanwa or Seimitsu buttons (they are both 29.5mm diameter) and because that panel is stainless steel I don't think I would like to enlarge the holes without worrying about messing things up or not getting the holes lined up etc.

If your holes are big enough then the only choice you need to make are whether to get snap-in or screw-in type. I personally prefer the screw-in type as it lets you line up the buttons a little if your holes are not perfectly lined up. But because yours was done professionally I can see it's all cut beautifully.

Snap in buttons offer more choice of colours and if you do decide to go for screw-in type bear in mind that the nuts might come into contact with each other. Happ nuts are just shy of 35mm in diameter. Seimitsu are 35mm and Sanwa are 36mm. Might not seem like a lot of difference but that difference is doubled when two buttons are side by side. So for Sanwa buttons you need an extra 2mm clearance over the ones you have. Yours look close already so it's something to look out for.

kyoke · « **Reply #118 on:** January 06, 2011, 01:36:14 am »

Big update since last time!

- Everything's wired up:

*Amp + speakers
*Customized power supply - routes to smart power switch
*Lighting - fluorescent, thankfully doesn't generate that much heat with quarter aluminum pipe behind it

- Bezel's installed

- Back panel set up with on/off button

And I just ordered the marquee from http://gameongrafix.com, which came out like this:

And here's the cabinet with lighting assembly:

Almost there!

jipp · « **Reply #119 on:** January 06, 2011, 07:28:27 am »

that bartop looks great.

chris.


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Author Topic: R-TYPE Themed Bartop - "R-CADE" *DONE (for the most part)* (Read 50149 times)

Author Topic: R-TYPE Themed Bartop - "R-CADE" DONE (for the most part) (Read 50149 times)