Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Donkey Kong Jr
mr_doles:
Well I am back and like so many others I have recruited my father-in-law to help out with the body work this weekend. But I have some “step-by-step” questions about what I need to do.
Bondo. Do I want Bondo All Purpose Putty or do I want Bondo Automotive Body Filler ? What grit sandpaper do I use at this step? Is there a too cold or too hot to be working with Bondo?
Prime and Pant. Do I need to sand the laminate down or rough it up to get the primer to stick to it? Any specific type of primer (water based/oil based) and same for the paint. Do I use 220 grit from start to finish or do I gradually go smoother. What am I looking for to know it has had enough primer, sand, primer, sand, and then pant, sand, paint, sand?
Tools. What type of roller works best for this.
Guess that is enough questions for now. I'll get some pictures Sunday while we are working. Oh on a side note I got my DK Jr board thanks to a KLOV’er!!!!
javeryh:
I used the automotive stuff - worked great. 220 sandpaper should be plenty (it sands easily). You could go up to 100 if you want to make it go faster and then switch over to 220 when you get the shape close to final. I don't know about too cold or too hot - I worked in probably 65-70 degree weather without issue.
I sanded the laminate before painting - you need to give the paint something rough to stick to. Don't sand the laminate off - just rough it up with 100 grit or so. If you are like me, you will have bondo all over the thing to fill in all the little dents (see below). I used BINZ primer and I highly highly highly recommend you do the same. It covers everything in about 3 or 4 coats. I can't imagine using anything else. I also used 220 from start until finish and made sure to sand in between each coat. I used a 1/4" nap roller to apply Sherwin-Williams latex paint - it is really good stuff. I tried a foam roller and super thin coats and got nowhere - I could not get rid of the roller overlap lines and it was making me crazy. Switching to the 1/4" nap roller did the trick. The paint went on beautifully. As for knowing when to stop with the primer and paint - you will just know. With the primer you won't be able to see through to the original color at all and with the paint you will not see through to the primer.
Have fun and take LOTS of pictures!
Mauzy:
Just as a testament to how automotive Bondo is the arcade machine restorationist's duct tape: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=92466.msg973823#msg973823
;D
mr_doles:
Thanks guys for that, it will definitely help. I think I spent over an hour last night reading all the debates of oilbased vs latex, Lowes vs Home Depot vs Sherman Willimas, semi-gloss vs high-gloss, roller vs spray. I think there is such a thing as too much info. One thing I forget to ask is the black paint for the top back and inside. What kind did you use for that.
javeryh:
--- Quote from: mr_doles on March 25, 2010, 12:47:51 pm ---Thanks guys for that, it will definitely help. I think I spent over an hour last night reading all the debates of oilbased vs latex, Lowes vs Home Depot vs Sherman Willimas, semi-gloss vs high-gloss, roller vs spray. I think there is such a thing as too much info. One thing I forget to ask is the black paint for the top back and inside. What kind did you use for that.
--- End quote ---
Rustoleum Protective Enamel paint - Semi-Gloss black. It's pretty good stuff.
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